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Loquillo · 06-12-2005, 11:50 AM

Here’s a description of my PC and its modifications:

Motherboard: DFI NFII Ultra Infinity
CPU: AMD XP Barton 2600+
Memory: 2X256/400
VGA: Abit Siluro GF3 VIO.

The PC has a water cooling system that was built entirely by myself. It has 3 blocks: CPU, VGA and NB.
The water is cooled by a passive radiator, which can be seen at the right side of the case. 0.3 mm thick cooper sheets, ¼’’ and 3/8” diameter cooper pipes were used to build it along with other materials for the top and bottom receiving vessel, connections, etc.
As I previously mentioned, this radiator works in a passive way. It’s totally fanless so the noise and power consumption are nil in this part of the system. It keeps the water in a range between 3 and 4°C over room temperature in normal working conditions.
If the PC is excessively demanded, either by overcloking, benchmarks, etc., there is a second traditional-type radiator, which works with air forced by fans. This, as the first one, was also built by myself and is part of a reservoir-radiator unit. The reservoir was made in methacrylate and at the same time works as one of the radiator’s receiving vessels. The real dissipation area is made of copper threaded pipes to enhance the surface of dissipation with the air. Of course, the water circulates inside de pipes, which has access by a recipient vessel made with welded bronze sheets. This radiator is rarely used since, as I mentioned before, the passive one gives enough performance so as to avoid its use. Although the water always circulates inside the copper pipes, the fans are most of the time off. The fan and temperature controller is in charge of this.
As regards the blocks, they were made with very simple and affordable tools.
Inside the reservoir-deposit unit is the pump, which is hanged (not supported nor stuck) by rubbers to avoid transmitting vibration to the rest of the PC.
The controller was built based on a Coolermaster Aerogate II, which originally has the capacity to measure 4 temperatures and control 4 different fans. Now, with my modifications, it’s possible to measure 11 temperatures and the control range of the fans increased to off- 5/12V from the original 7/12V. Should the fans be on, a greater range of voltages reach an almost imperceptible noise level. It is important to point out that every fan that brings air to the PC is equipped with a filter to avoid the entrance of particles.
The controlled temperatures are the following: CPU, GPU, VGA-ram, HD1, HD2, external system temperature, water temperature -in its hottest point-, NB, SB, RAM, power supply. This controller has its own power supply, which allows watching what happens with the temperatures inside even with an off PC. This power supply is the same used for the illumination of the PC just to avoid unnecessary power consumption of the main power supply (the 10 control switches are located at the bottom).
The main switches –those which feed the controller, the pump, etc. and from where everything is controlled- are located in the front panel. If the pump is not working, the main power supply doesn’t receive any power. Therefore, it is not possible to turn on the PC.
There is a window at the front to observe the reservoir with a thermometer inside and the air intake to the secondary radiator.
The rest of the changes were made mostly for esthetic reasons. For example, the painting was made in 2 colors so as to give all the components the same aspect.
The hard discs’ supports and the main power supply’s sheet were made by copper electrodeposits and the methacrylate window has an etching on it (I did both things).
High intensity leds and its correspondent resistance were used for the illumination. They were assembled on methacrylate sheets according to the shape and size of the sector I wanted to illuminate.
This mod was made to achieve a low noise PC, with reduced power consumption and without sacrificing its performance. Thanks to the changes, I have obtained outstanding OC levels (2300mhz/1.75V) if I take into account my CPU. I reached those levels with a controlled temperature and they never passed 10°C over room temperature.
Best regards,

http://img177.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img177&image=014zg.jpg

http://img177.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img177&image=026ev.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=062vq.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=099xz.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=101hm.jpg

http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=157ea.jpg

http://img20.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img20&image=202kk.jpg

http://img155.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img155&image=213ui.jpg

http://img155.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img155&image=264by.jpg

06-12-2005, 11:50 AM	#1
Loquillo Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: www.tortugahard.com Posts: 11	My Mod :) Here’s a description of my PC and its modifications: Motherboard: DFI NFII Ultra Infinity CPU: AMD XP Barton 2600+ Memory: 2X256/400 VGA: Abit Siluro GF3 VIO. The PC has a water cooling system that was built entirely by myself. It has 3 blocks: CPU, VGA and NB. The water is cooled by a passive radiator, which can be seen at the right side of the case. 0.3 mm thick cooper sheets, ¼’’ and 3/8” diameter cooper pipes were used to build it along with other materials for the top and bottom receiving vessel, connections, etc. As I previously mentioned, this radiator works in a passive way. It’s totally fanless so the noise and power consumption are nil in this part of the system. It keeps the water in a range between 3 and 4°C over room temperature in normal working conditions. If the PC is excessively demanded, either by overcloking, benchmarks, etc., there is a second traditional-type radiator, which works with air forced by fans. This, as the first one, was also built by myself and is part of a reservoir-radiator unit. The reservoir was made in methacrylate and at the same time works as one of the radiator’s receiving vessels. The real dissipation area is made of copper threaded pipes to enhance the surface of dissipation with the air. Of course, the water circulates inside de pipes, which has access by a recipient vessel made with welded bronze sheets. This radiator is rarely used since, as I mentioned before, the passive one gives enough performance so as to avoid its use. Although the water always circulates inside the copper pipes, the fans are most of the time off. The fan and temperature controller is in charge of this. As regards the blocks, they were made with very simple and affordable tools. Inside the reservoir-deposit unit is the pump, which is hanged (not supported nor stuck) by rubbers to avoid transmitting vibration to the rest of the PC. The controller was built based on a Coolermaster Aerogate II, which originally has the capacity to measure 4 temperatures and control 4 different fans. Now, with my modifications, it’s possible to measure 11 temperatures and the control range of the fans increased to off- 5/12V from the original 7/12V. Should the fans be on, a greater range of voltages reach an almost imperceptible noise level. It is important to point out that every fan that brings air to the PC is equipped with a filter to avoid the entrance of particles. The controlled temperatures are the following: CPU, GPU, VGA-ram, HD1, HD2, external system temperature, water temperature -in its hottest point-, NB, SB, RAM, power supply. This controller has its own power supply, which allows watching what happens with the temperatures inside even with an off PC. This power supply is the same used for the illumination of the PC just to avoid unnecessary power consumption of the main power supply (the 10 control switches are located at the bottom). The main switches –those which feed the controller, the pump, etc. and from where everything is controlled- are located in the front panel. If the pump is not working, the main power supply doesn’t receive any power. Therefore, it is not possible to turn on the PC. There is a window at the front to observe the reservoir with a thermometer inside and the air intake to the secondary radiator. The rest of the changes were made mostly for esthetic reasons. For example, the painting was made in 2 colors so as to give all the components the same aspect. The hard discs’ supports and the main power supply’s sheet were made by copper electrodeposits and the methacrylate window has an etching on it (I did both things). High intensity leds and its correspondent resistance were used for the illumination. They were assembled on methacrylate sheets according to the shape and size of the sector I wanted to illuminate. This mod was made to achieve a low noise PC, with reduced power consumption and without sacrificing its performance. Thanks to the changes, I have obtained outstanding OC levels (2300mhz/1.75V) if I take into account my CPU. I reached those levels with a controlled temperature and they never passed 10°C over room temperature. Best regards, http://img177.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img177&image=014zg.jpg http://img177.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img177&image=026ev.jpg http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=062vq.jpg http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=099xz.jpg http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=101hm.jpg http://img199.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img199&image=157ea.jpg http://img20.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img20&image=202kk.jpg http://img155.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img155&image=213ui.jpg http://img155.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img155&image=264by.jpg Last edited by Loquillo; 06-12-2005 at 08:13 PM.