[DX2]

OK first off, i dont have any formal engeenering experience, just physics you learn in school. So a basic knowledge of physics and thermalphysics.
ive put alot of thought into the design, ive been watching procooling for a couple years and have looked at other designs too.

As for the name "Bushman-Tech", it is a term i coined up while at school, basicaly what others might call "ghetto" . But having grownup in Zimbabwe, and being South african, Bushman is alot closer to home. I might even name the individual concept and designs after variious southern african things. might be cool

I have this post in HTML format on my little webspace. The content will be close to identical to this post.

http://members.fortunecity.com/keimo...t/Cooling2.htm

Ive been tweaking the design on and off for about 2 years now, so be gentle before you tear it apart. Further, if you want to build it, be my guest. just give credit. And please for the love of god dont sell it. ive been tinkering with it for a long time , i reserve all the rights for production (if ever) and i guess you could call it free for personal use but no commercial sales. Call me paranoid. But people are evil.

Design goals:
High water flow

Use of dimples

Use none restictive open channels

High surface area

Use of dimples

Use of ribs in fins

Use of interchannel miniribs

Use of hole in vertical and horizontal fins and ribs respectively

Use of segmentation in ribs

Low thermal resistance (heat moves easily through block away from heatsource and reaches coolant quickly)

Use of basethickness for lateral heat movement

Use of uninterupted fins

Use of segmentation in ribs

Use of dimples

Use of holes in fins and ribs

home buildable with basic tools

Use of upside down design

Use of straight lines

keeping tools in mind

Please see Attached .rar with video of how i imagine making the WB. drill and dremel tools, little cutting discs

easily applicable to gpu / cpu / chipset / anything

easily adaptable in all dimensions

At present i'm sitting on a 2.4ghz celeron that hardly needs WC but im pretty enthusiastic none the less . Even if the WB doesnt see the light of day for several months too come.

Right lets get to the meat. (yes all images were made by hand in Microsoft Paintbrush)



I did a few quick surface area calculations and decided apon a ribbed fin design.
the tweaks that followed were to optimise this design.

this is the basic idea. a ribbed fin. ill explain the individual features shortly.


A profile view through the Waterblock.


Vertical segmentation:




The fins are not only ribbed to increase surface area but also have horizontal segments. these increase surface area but also produce some turbulance to help scrub the heat form the copper surface. the segments dont cut right through the fins no maintain good flow along the channels and to allow for horizontal spreading of heat


Holes in vertical ribs

To further increase surface area for heat dissipation but also to bring the water closer to the heat source holes are drilled throught the horizontal fins. the holes are small and few as to not negativly affect the flow of water along the channels

Later on really liking the idea of bringing the water ringht into the ribs, without cutting the ribs completely and thus allowing the heat to move along the length of the rib, i basically went wild with holes. which you will see in the latest build at the end of the thread

miniribs with Dimples

In centre of the channels we have a row of mini ribs. these are to increase the surface area. To further increasse the surface area we have, at the same intervals, as the holes and the vertical segmentation, segments between the miniribs. Thus keeping the intervals simplifies the manufacturing. To further increase surface area and reduce the distance from heat source to water we drill dimpels into the miniribs and between segments, as in the surface of a golfball these might serve to improove flow speed but reduced surface friction.

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OK so now we have the basic design concepts. the block is essencially an upside down design for build ease. Hence the channeles are not cut into the copper, but the fins sit on a flat base with a cupped lid which wil make the channels. ive included the channels in the top down view though that one sees the flow. this is flowConcept 1, i have another slightly different flow concept which ill list after this one.



water flow v1

Removing the fins and concertration on on the flow of the water we have the diagram above. The thickness of the blue arrows and lines indicates flow rate. in this flow design the speed of the water remains constant throught the block. having the connections on opposing sides.

block with lid


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Flow concept 2

The fin and channel layout V2



The water flow V2


Again the thickness of the blue arrows and lines indicates flow rate.in short. 2 cannel in the centre, and 4 on the outsides thuis flow in the centre is double that on the outsides. In long: The water enters and leaves on the same side, making this conept better for graphics cards. The water enters and flows into 2 channels. the water speed is the same as when it entres, each channel then turns and splits into 2 more channels making a total of 4 in the other direction. The water flows at half the speed here. Thus we dont have a constant flow rate in the channels. we have the highest flow rate in the centre directly over the die.

block with lid


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DIY construction:

Materials ive considered, are ofcourse copper, which id use for the final thing. but my first attempt will probably be with alluminium. much easier to work with . for copper work id have to find a place to machine this. My dad might have access to a robotic CNC at work.

the tools would be basic hardware store stuff, dremil bits and drill bits. the way ive done the design it should all be do able with just those shown tool (see video attached) a cutting disc and drill bit.

the actual dimensions are not set yet. i was thinking like 1mm fins and ribs. allowing for about 0,5mm - 0,8mm holes

Attached:
fin+ tools.
Most interesting bit. a fin with hwo i imagine cutting the block with drill bits, and basically those little dremel tools. little cutting discs and such. Think very much DIY. Think Low budget.