A really great reply to my thread from the futuremark forums. I ported my thread to their forums. sorry to cross refference and reply. im trying to maximise the info in each thread without sending people back and forth between threads
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Originally Posted by RealTime@futuremark.com
Having been a machinist I wish to add a few things:
1) Choose your aluminum carefully. I cannot read German, but I couldn't find anywhere that stated the alloy type. If its 6061 or above, you may have some very long nights ahead of you. Softer alloys cut easier but tend to be more difficult to grind (eg cutting wheel)
2)Using a Dremel for this work will be EXTREMELY tedious by hand. I suggest springing for a Dremel router attachment and a good bench vise as it will help in keeping your cross-cuts more consistent.
3) Buy GOOD cutters for your dremel. I would turn to an end mill supplier and look for high-speed 1/8" (3.175mm) shank steel end mills to fit into your dremel. I would suggest staying away from the Dremel brand cutters as these tend to be cheaply made and dont last long. The smaller end mills are reasonably priced and last MUCH longer. Just buy the shape cutter you want. Here is an example of what a quality end mill would run you. First one in the list. I would also recommend a 45 degree corner chamfer as this will have less bite and allow you to hog out sections with less "skipping" (where the tool bites in and jumps haphazardly across your workpiece).
4) Use lubricant, like a cutting agent or machining oil for cutting/drilling. This will keep your tools sharper, longer.
5) Wear a respiration mask to filter out aluminum dust when grinding (and cutting if you choose not to use a lubricant)
The design looks sound, but I am not sure you'll see much benefit from the vertical cuts through the "fins" in the water channels. I played with a similar design on a larger scale for blowmolding when I worked as a machinist and the greatest cooling differential was the size of the fins. Any cross-cuts or misshaping caused drops in flow which negated the added cooling performance the extra fluid turbulance and surface area provided.
I think you should by all means try your design, I just wanted to share my experience.
Good luck! I will be watching this thread to see how you're coming along.
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To which i replied greatfully,
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Thanks so much for the tips RealTime. i really appreciate it.
Im not sure which alloy im getting there either. ive seen Material: AlMg 4.5 Mn and Material: AlCuMgPb (Dreh- und Bohrqualität <-- turn and drill quality) The auction that id shown didnt say. Others ive looked at mentioned those 2 as far as i saw.
There have been several questions about the holes and such in my design and ll be prototyping my way to that final design nothing the performance at each stage.
just the fins
fins + horizontal ribs
fins + horizontal ribs + cross cuts
fins + horizontal ribs + cross cuts + vertical holes
fins + horizontal ribs + cross cuts + vertical holes + horizontal holes
fun experimentation along the way. See design thread for details.
yeah i can imagine its going to get tedious, and probably frustrating when i break a fin, or rib, or tool.
Again a really appreciate the info. Ill be sure to update along the way.
edit: testing will be interesting. Since i dont own a single piece of watercooling equipment. i either need to find someone around here who can quickly and easily swap in my block for a qucik test, or a more elaborate, bushman tech method. id imagine somthing like.
tap + thermometer -> hose -> waterblock + stove -> hose -> sink + thermometer.
other equipment includes, something to push the block down on the stove (aka die simulator) with uniform pressure. which will probably be a brick.This ought to get fun!
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yes i know im putting the WBTA to shame (Though im not a member) and procoolings high standrds in block testing too.
but i hope to redeem myself through innovation, creativity, and humour. And perhaps a sprinkle of enthusiasm.
