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Originally Posted by diff_lock2
whys the plexi part so huge and thick?
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The top has to be atleast 1/4" thick to have enough threads to hold fittings. But the top also had to have the widening inlet and a 1/4" tall outlet channel. A thicker top will also make the block more durable. Both the top and the middle plate are made out of polycarbonate, which is far less likely to stress fracture over time than acrylic. Polycarbonate can also be solvent-adhered to itself, which makes putting the block together a little bit easier for me because it means I can use one less O-Ring.
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Originally Posted by diff_lock2
also it looks VERY good, but, what about this design makes you think it would perform very well?
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The design was develop from my intuition, which is based on several months of research into the waterblocks that others have made as well as alot of constructive feedback from this community and others.
The nozzles will be "spraying" both the base and the walls of the channels in the center square inch of the block. The channel walls (or fins) are congruent from the center of the block, which alot of complicated math and evaluation by many others have shown that it should be more effective than pins. And I'm using the dimensional ratios for channel size, channel wall thickness, and base thickness that others have determined to be optimal.
So I'm borrowing alot of expertise from Cathar, BigBen2k, D-Tek, JFettig, and definitely davidzo. All of whom I would like to thank for being so constructive.
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Originally Posted by JFettig
Whos testing it?
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Not sure yet but I've e-mailed Joe Citarella to see if he might be able to.