[BGP Spook]

If you really want to you can buy a 2-203 heatercore for something like $25 at Advanced Auto Parts.

You will need to find a way to mount it, build a rad box for it, and modify the inlet/outlet tubeing to make it fit, though.

That is how I did it, since the 2-203 gets good performance at a reasonable price.

It is not for everyone though, if you want a "project" then a heatercore may be for you; but if you just want to WC then go with something else like the BIP II that ricecrispi mentioned.

If you want the best performance for the least noise/CFM then you will need to go with the PA series.(PA120.x or PA160, warning! Not cheap!)

You will need fans no matter what rad you get, Yateloons(sp?) are the quietest for the performance.

Short of running passively, the best you could do for quite performance would be to get a PA 120.2 with two Yateloons @~7v sucking through the rad.
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When it comes to selecting waterblocks will you need to consider what CPU you have and what else if anything you plan on WCing. The nature of the CPU and what else there is in the loop has as much as anything else to do with waterblock selection.
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EDIT: After having read through a part of the article you first linked I find that it has several conceptual errors and several points that I could debate as to what is the "best" solution.

It is generally sound advice, but has flaws.

EDIT2:
Ok, I will try and correct what I read from the above article.


Pumps

Originally Posted by Sode's Abode

The volume of water circulating through the block and radiator is crucial, as it is this movement that carries the heat with it, just as a high-speed fan does a better job of taking heat away from a conventional heat sink.

In practice maxing out the total volume of water circulating does is less important than the efficency of the radiator and block. In other words, a lower gpm loop may perform significantly better than a high gpm loop depending on the quality of the water block and the rad.

Originally Posted by Sode's Abode

Reservoirs are a bad idea. They do not help cooling and are at risk of being spilt.

While it is true that reservoirs (or a res) do not help cooling it is also true that they are sometimes more convenient than a T-line though this is rare. They are also less prone to temperature fluctuations. If a res is built and secured correctly then there is no need to worry about them breaking/leaking. The best argument for a res is actual point #3 in the Tubing section below.

Originally Posted by Sode's Abode

Look for at least 150 gallons per hour flow rate, and a 1.5 metre head....
There is no reason not to leave the pump plugged in and switched on all the time, because if you mount the pump correctly, it will only make a very low, barely audible rumbling noise.

Generally speakiong disregard flow, better to look for a pump with a little more head. Don't bother with anything less than 6 feet (~1.9 m) of head. The only time you should consider flow is if you are comparing to otherwise nearly identical pumps.

Some prefer to leave their pump on all the time some prefer, like me, to turn it off when not in use.
It is really depends on how often you use your computer--turning it on and off--and your personal preference.


Waterblocks

Not much in the way or corrections but rather some notes.

In this section the biggest things overlooked by the author, in my mind, are:
1. the nature of your waterblock (performance, pressure drop) should be determined by your CPU and the rest of your loop
2. the inlet/outlet size of your waterblock is determined largely by the rest of the components in your loop (rad, pump)
3. NEVER EVER EVER MIX METALS! This is absolutely important and goes for the whole loop; poorly designed waterblocks tend to be the primary culprits, though.


Hosing/tubing

Hose size should be determined by your components, not the other way around. 3/8 inch, 1/2 inch, not much diffence other than component fit, although if you want slightly lower resistance go with 1/2 inch.

Three things:
1. Durability
Tubing--particularlly silicon tubing--does not always age well. Sometimes tubing will just go to pieces after a period of time, often taking your tubing with it.

2. Biological growth
One of the best ways to fight biological growth is to keep the water from being exposed to light. So clear tubing is not always the best option, though it is the most commonly used for its "leetness." Opaque or black tubing is best. I am not sure about the use of garden hose, though it has been suggested before.

3. Transpiration(I think that is the word)
Basically all flexible tubing experiences very slow leakage through the tubing walls. Thicker walls, less leakage. Different materials leak at different rates.
Silicon is, I think, the worst. Tygon the best. The rest fall somewhere inbetween.
The best argument for a res is if you have a large vented res which allows for lots of reserve water so you can more easily deal with this phenomenon. Usually people find somewhere between 1 tbsp and 1 cup of water lost every month from this phenomenon. I have gone through about three gallons in a little less than a year, though this is a bit extreme owing to how I built my loop.


Clamps

I would actually like to highlight and congratulate the author on getting this right. Too often I have seen/heard of people--myself included--using poor quality clamps. The only thing I would add is that here in the states they are sometimes called "metal worm clamps." Also, it is possible to over tighten them. Once you start to see the hosing "bludge" a bit then it is tight enough.


Water

Ok, I will spell it out for you. Use distilled water, found commonly wherever you buy food. DO NOT USE TAP WATER!
Disregard the authors advice for water additives.

Regading the nature of Antifreeze, it does not improve water's performance in the range of temperatures we use it in.
See here:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...rcooling+myths
And the condensed version here:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/index03.asp

The only water additive I recommend is Zerex Racing Super coolant, anything else is generally unnecessary/usless though there are exeptions.


Order of flow
Hunt around in the above links. It doesn't really matter, execpt for the T-line or res being located to best feed the pump. Other than that, no real diffence.


Radiator Installation

Originally Posted by Spode's Abode

The radiator needs to be fed with the coldest air possible...

True.

Originally Posted by Spode's Abode

...and the warm exhaust air should ideally go straight out of the case.

Not necessarly, the rest of the components still need airflow and the diffence between air coming in a rad as opposed to air coming out of a rad is fairly minimal. The ideal air flow would have the air comming out of the radiator and passing over the motherboard, hard drives, and whatever else isn't directly water cooled.

As for the "best" placement of the rad, it comes down to opinion and circumstanes. The "best" place will depend on the rad chosen, size constranits, airflow concerns, who much work--modding--the user is willing to do and what the user is willing to live with.

That said the author's placement recomendation isn't a bad idea, but may not be the best for those whoever reads the article.

What he got right:

Originally Posted by Spode's Abode

Always use a duct to space the fan away from the radiator a little. This eliminates the dead spot in airflow caused by the fan motor blocking the fins. You can make a perfectly good duct with some cardboard.

What he missed:
You should always have your fans "sucking" through a rad as this has been proven to be the most efficent use of CFMs.