[BGP Spook]

Originally Posted by buka

Radiator: Thermochill PA120.3

As you have researched(!) and seen(!) the PA120.3 is about the best rad one can get these days. They are neigh on impossible to beat, except for the price.

You spend your money where it is needed.

Originally Posted by buka

Tubing: Tygon
I'm gonna go for 1/2 inch through out, since it seems from what I have seen that 1/2 performs better


T-line or Res:
I'll probably go with a T-line. It just seems a simpler setup and as mentioned, it affects the flow less.

Nothing to add.

Originally Posted by buka

CPU Block:
Swiftech Apogee CPU water block $47.95, as per ricecrispies recommendation
It would seem Swiftech make high quality products and the quality of the block affect the performance to a high degree as well

This is reasonable, but I would remind you:
"When it comes to selecting waterblocks will you need to consider what CPU you have and what else if anything you plan on WCing. The nature of the CPU and what else there is in the loop has as much as anything else to do with waterblock selection."

It is hard to recommend a waterblock when we don't know what CPU you plan to strap it to.

Originally Posted by buka

GPU Block:
Swiftech MCW60VGA cooler $59.95, as per ricecrispies recommendation


Chipset cooler:
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset cooler $29.95, as per ricecrispies recommendation

You may also want to consider the Maze 3 or 4 VGA blocks, your choice. There have been debates about the viability of chipset WCing.
Many people, me included, feel that WCing the north bridge is mostly unnecessary, arguing that a good large passive heatsink will do the job just as well with less hassle.
Some feel it is absolutely necessary, arguing that some boards are too cramped for a large passive heatsink and that some chipsets (NV4) get too hot for a passive solution.

Originally Posted by buka

It would seem the last major decision I have left is the pump. Despite ricecrispies recommendation looks like a solid one, I am still looking around.

You want an Eheim pump. I am only somewhat familiar with some model numbers. The 1046, 1048, 1250 are all pumps that have been talked about here and elsewhere.

Originally Posted by buka

1. In most cases people setup the loop so it goes to the CPU first. Any specific reasons as to why you wouldn't go to the GPU first? Since my system will be pressed the most during gaming, this makes sense to me. But of course I could be completely wrong.

I think it is mostly out of habit and tradition. Also, many people will start their WCing loop with just the CPU then sometime later branch off into VGA and chipset cooling.

Originally Posted by buka

2. Even though my case will fit everything inside, I am still considering mounting the radiator outside the case, for the sole reason of colder air. Is that a gain or am i just being picky?

Unless you have to mount the rad outside the case to get cool air then I don't see a real need to.

Originally Posted by buka

3. How do I set the voltage for the fans?

I believe the answer is a reostat or a fan controller. Though I am not as familiar as some concerning undervolting fans.

Originally Posted by buka

4. About not mixing metals. Does that in practice mean, the metals should be the same for the pump, block and radiator or only the blocks?

Everything should be copper or brass, they mix well together. No aluminium. The pumps usually used in WCing do not have any metal in contact with the water, only ceramics and plastics.

Originally Posted by buka

5. Are there any studies of how performance longevity / life span increases due to lower temps? Just curious.

Are you refering to the loops longevity or that of the components? I am only aware of some casual polls and discussions here and elsewhere regarding the general longevity of WCing loops. As for the components, it is a known fact--though I can not think of any links--that electronics generally last about twice as long for every 10C lower nominal operating temperature.

Someone will have to help me with this one. I believe it has to do with electron migration degradation and it's rate behaving similar to that of a chemical reaction.

Originally Posted by buka

6. About clamps. This much I figured. Sure a poor quality clamp will do the job, but since leaks has got to be the biggest worry, it would seem better to spend whatever extra dollar on good clamps and sleep well at night, then the other way around?

Indeed, a better clamp will save you sleep. The metal worm style clamps are not that much more anyway.

Originally Posted by buka

7. Order of flow. So should the T-line be well above the pump or level or below, "to best feed the pump?"

The T-line should be wherever it will allow water to flow unaided by anything but gravity directly to the "in" side of the pump. The reason is to facilitate filling. If that means put the T-line at the bottom of the loop, then do, if that means put the T-line at the top of the loop, then do.

The only other consideration is the ease of bleeding the system. If you can cap the T-line and are fit enough for a little aerobic work then you need not worry over much about placing the T-line at the top of the loop.

Originally Posted by buka

8. Rad placement. The one thing I have read which made sense, is it is better to place it low, then high, since heat rises. Would that be a correct assumption?

The thing to remember is heat rises mostly when there is a large temperature delta. So in a way, yes, it would be better to place it low, but in practice if you have the air coming from the top and blowing down there will be no noticable difference.

Originally Posted by buka

9. What is the approximate lifespan of a WC system. Will it last several upgrades, if done proper? Of course blocks would have to be replaced if they don't fit the new components, but never the less. If the life span is decent, I'd rather spend more money now and have it last, then the WalMart method.

There was a discussion about this a few months ago actually. I can't seem to find it right now.
EDIT: Here is something similar.
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7239

Assuming:
1. you put the loop together the right way the first time
2. you have non-faulty components
3. you have only all copper/brass metal in the loop
4. you keep the tubes from collapsing(just check the water level every month or so and use good tubing like you are)
5. you keep the system filled
6. you keep little nasties from growing

Then the only point of wear is the pump.

It all comes down to the pump, Eheim's appear to be the best. I am not aware of anyone every having one break on them when it wasn't their fault(ran it dry).

Considering all of that, some people have had WCing loops run for two or three years before they took them apart and redid them, often times just for the fun of it .

Originally Posted by buka

10. About the T-line. Is it a bad idea, to have it 'leaning' against something up top in the case, or does it have to be secured, with i.e. a fillport?

Assuming you keep it well secured so you have a sealed loop then I don't see any reason to have to secured with a fill port. Some people like them thouigh.