Quote:
Originally posted by DodgeViper
Nobody ever uses a tap all the way to the end. A tappered thread is a sealing thread, but when you begin using metal barbs and non metal products you have a loser and its the non metal products.
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Oh but they do. I described a method to avoid all of the needless cracking. The only reasons not to do it is to save time to cut cost. In the method I described it not possible for the barb to bottom out when using top thicknesses less than the thread length of a standard barb. Furthermore it is not going to place excessive force inside the tapped hole because the barb will screw all the way in and stop at the top, having the teflon tape do the job of sealing.
The only losing combination is a poorly thought out use of materials. Better tapping procedure and trimming of the barbs or a thicker top, full 1/2" and no trimming is needed.
Another thing, why the use of the o-ring? It is just begging for someone to overtighten the assembly screws and give undue strain on the unsupported areas around them. This is where the term eyecandy can be used in my opinion. The milling out of the o-ring channel adds an expense to the product without adding durability. Why not use a solid clear gasket so that even pressure is spread and maintained? You still get the see through look with less cost and more durability.
Countersunk tapered head assembly screws are not a good choice either (as shown in the pics) and are inviting a crack, it's like driving a wedge into the material as you tighten them down.
In my opinion, a better use of the materials could have avoided these problems and kept the reputation of clear topped blocks more respectable.