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#Rotor · 10-18-2002, 10:40 PM

I use Marine Goop....

soldering does work for when you have the fittings in from the top.... but from the side, like that... the taper of the fitting, tends to sheer the solder, as it is very soft and pliable...

now I suggest you take your time, with marking out the grid... the more accurate you are with that first step, the easier the rest will be, choose the drill-bit you want to use for the grid, then design the spacing between the holes so they just just do not cut into each other, believe me, you will have a hard time to drill straight with ordinary bit's , if half of it is going through air, and the other half through copper....

oh and for tapping the assembly holes, don't go with too thin, Copper is just as hard on taps, as on anything else... I use 8nc32 CS-SS bolts for it... works gr8.

10-18-2002, 10:40 PM	#19
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I use Marine Goop.... soldering does work for when you have the fittings in from the top.... but from the side, like that... the taper of the fitting, tends to sheer the solder, as it is very soft and pliable... now I suggest you take your time, with marking out the grid... the more accurate you are with that first step, the easier the rest will be, choose the drill-bit you want to use for the grid, then design the spacing between the holes so they just just do not cut into each other, believe me, you will have a hard time to drill straight with ordinary bit's , if half of it is going through air, and the other half through copper.... oh and for tapping the assembly holes, don't go with too thin, Copper is just as hard on taps, as on anything else... I use 8nc32 CS-SS bolts for it... works gr8. __________________ There is no Spoon....