[Albigger]

Originally posted by Fixittt
yeah the base is to thick. (For me anyways)

yeah, definately (at least from everything i've been reading, and others' real world temps with thinner bases seem to be better) not considering peltier use of course.

Originally posted by Fixittt
One thing I would have done, just to make it different, was when it was time to machine the pillars, I would have made a set of soft jaws for the vise and rotated the block. Instead of semetiracal (Sorry spelling sucks) squares, then would look more like diamonds. Basicly they would be turned sideways.

Good luck on the copper. Use coolant!

I will definately have to use coolant. Thanks.

This would be interesting - about having the pillars oriented 45 degrees from where they are now? correct? or maybe you wouldn't have to do squares at all, maybe that is what you are saying, a 'true' diamond or rhombus shaped pillar. It would be interesting to compare side by side the results, all else equal.

Originally posted by MadDogMe
If you're prepared to put that much work into a block you'll get there in Cu...

good to hear

Originally posted by MadDogMe
Bit paranoid on the top retention were'nt you though? ...

of course..... couldn't have any leaks now could i?

Originally posted by MadDogMe
PS. it was mentioned in the Lemon block thread by Brad, how abouit staggering the pins so the water does'nt take a straight path to the outlets?...

that would be A LOT of machining work, i think. Way more than I am prepared to give at this point. But if flowrate isn't compromised too much with that method it would definately provide more hard water to block contact. Has ANYONE tried this yet???

Originally posted by MadDogMe
I don't think the temps tally at all. 26C and 33C load temp(7C rise), but 36C only giving a 4C rise!! (40C). it should be 10C at least!...

I quoted 34C to 40C, a 6C rise which is pretty consistent with the 7C rise at lower ambient temps. I consider my temps very stable/predictable since I've been using this block, and I would think the extra 1C increase at lower ambient temps is due to my 'testing' method - open window and put a box fan blowing at my case. But my radiator is in the very top so it was likely drawing in warmer air than the mobo monitor was reading, so that could be it...

and why do you say that it should be 10C at least??? I'm not understanding this? (don't forget I'm running a crappy duron and Not an XP chip currently, they don't put out as many watts...)

at idle my cpu temps are at or below my system temp. and i kicked down the voltage and overclock the other day to test temps:
Duron 750 @ 800 1.68vcore
system: 26C cpu at load: 29C

Man I can't wait to get another chip so I know how well this block 'actually' performs. It seems good for me now though. where can I find wattage charts for a duron @ 1gig @ ~2.0vcore, and say an xp1600 @ ~ 1800 @ 2.0vcore? If I knew that I could predict temps possibly? or not?

All that being said - I'm not sure how much I can trust the mobo temp sensors.
#1 - in socket and not on die
#2 - temps seem unusually stable now that I went watercooling, and I can't decide if that's a result of going H20 or if the sensors are messed somehow.

- but i do plan to get a rad shack temp sensor so i can independently monitor ambient temps, water temps...

Originally posted by bigben2k
No it probably won't, simply because a fin that high would only be a benefit at low flow rates, i.e. < 1/2 gpm, at which point the performance would suck, regardless.

yeah, my block was designed to be a (very) high flow block, so I wouldn't hope to be anywhere near 1/2 gpm, at which perf. would suck as you say. Do you think even when going to a thinner base thickness that not being directly centered will hurt more? Enough to be noticeable?

Originally posted by bigben2k
Nice work though. I've been contemplating sandblasting, and I have to look into "bead blasting", just because I don't know what it is, precisely. The sandblasted surface is probably more flow restrictive, with a Hazen-Williams factor of 80 or less, where bead-blasting, in my rough estimate, might give a factor of 100.

See page 2 of this PDF click me! [/b]

interesting PDF there, thanks for the link. In my revision I would like to use a small ball mill to create many dimples in the bottom of the block. This would increase surface area around 57% as opposed to a 'flat' milled base.

I will also have to look into media blasting. what do most here use for roughing up the inside of the block? Anything? I could swipe some 80 or 60 grit paper in between the pillars, but I wasn't sure if this would be better/worse than sand blasting....