Yeah like
redleader says it depends on what you are doing?
Anyway the the method for polishibg to a shine and lapping is the same the way I do it.
To get this, follow all the below:-
If however you only want a heatsink lap, stop after the 1200 grade, no T-cut or polish.
Hope you are sitting comfortable
After milling the channel, all final finishing was done with basic tools, time, and elbow grease, (no machines)
I started by cutting out the block with a hacksaw that leaves you with a fairly straight, (if you are careful), but rough edge.
1. I used a basic flat metal file to get the hacksawed edge even holding the block in a soft jawed vice.
2. I then used "Wet & Dry", (also called water-proof silicon carbide paper).This needs to be "wet" for the best results, starting at about 120 grade and going down to 1200 Grade with various grades in between as required. This is designed for finishing car body repairs and is much better than sandpaper for this use. I do this with the Wet & Dry sheet on a flat surface, (glass is good), and move the block on the Wet & Dry, similar to lapping.
3. When it is smooth with the final wet & dry grade, I use T-Cut colour restorer, (designed for use on car paint that has gone dull or tarnished). When happy all scratches are removed finished with car polish, (Auto Glym Silicon Resin polish), for that deep shine. Both of these are also done with a cloth flat on the glass and moving the block back and fourth.
4. Once I'm happy with the finish and it is ready to install, I use white spirit or brake cleaner to remove the polish residue so it can be sprayed with clear cellulose lacquer to prevent the shiny metal tarnishing, You need to build this up in very thin coats initially or it will "ball", "fish eye", or "run" on shiny metal. Once done don't scratch the lacquer off and it will look good for ages.
[ 10-18-2001: Message edited by: BladeRunner ]
[ 10-18-2001: Message edited by: BladeRunner ]