[ap0calyps]

Originally posted by bigben2k
First, maybe you can tell us if you're using the DD nylon bolts, then try replacing them with metal ones, because the nylon can'y give you much clamping pressure.

I am using the nylon ones. They screw into the bottom of the coldplate, with lock-tight, and stick through the bottom of the board. DD gives you springs to use, but I am not using them. Everything is screwed TIGHTLY together. Unless the nylon rods are stretching as I tighten the nuts on them, I dont think that would make a difference.

Second, you could tell us your water temp (dip a thermometer in your loop) and report here. (We'll analyze it for ya )

Closed loop system. Sorry. But when It was set up for testing, XP 1600+ @ 1850Mhz, 1.95V, dual pelts at 20V, prime95 would get water temps up to 35C within 5 mins, then over a few hours would max out between there and 40C. Temps were measured with a Compunurse, I just dipped it in the res.

Third, your rad should be ok, but the fan is really critical here, especially since you're running two pelts. Actually, the BIX is really on the edge of the heatload that you're putting to it, maybe you'd consider a big, fat heatercore? (Give me a size, and I'll give you car models). It's not just a simple matter of max heatload, it's also about how you can keep your coolant temp as close to ambient as possible (in a "no pelt" rig).

The BIX is a heatercore/rad hyprid design. Do you guys even know the BIX??? Everyone keeps saying its not that good. But has anyone ever USED one or have reviews/proof? Like HOW do you know it's on the edge of it's heat dissipation abilities??

For more info, you can check out BillAdams's radiator roundup article on OC (but the graphs have been revised since then).

Do you have the link? Searched www.google.com no luck

Thx everyone