Quote:
Originally posted by Khledar
Just curious, what are you using for gasket material - didn't see much in the pics.
|
there's no gasket shown in the pics, still working on the best solution, worst case I'll simply use a silicon based sealant.
Quote:
Originally posted by bigben2k
Not trying to offend... but isn't that basically White Water, with the micro fins cut up? Wouldn't that leave a lot of no-flow spots?
|
try designing a high performance water block, that can be made with "average" workshop tools, that
doesn't end up resembling the WW in some way, believe me I tried, and I couldn't come up with one.
Visualise what is happening water flow wise in the pin area, focus in on a pin a couple of rows back from the jet impingment zone, look at the shadow area behind the pin, do you really think that you'll have a little bit of dead water just
sitting there? having 0 interaction with the very fast flow of highly turbulent water streaming past 1mm either side of it?
Quote:
Originally posted by nicozeg
Awesome precision job with a mitre saw, what kind of setup did you use?
There's something I dont understand: If the fins are 4mm high and the perspex pocket is 4.5 mm deep plus 0.5mm gasket, there's one mm of free space over the fins, is impossible that the fins are firmly against the top as you say.
For that to happen, the gasket thickness need to be substracted from the pocket, leaving it at 3.5mm depht.
|
This is the setup I used;
It's essentially the main working part of the mitre saw grafted onto
half a X-Y cross slide vice, which is in turn held in position with my big workshop vice. That allows me to make a cut down to a fixed depth, than simply wind the peice over a set amount and make another cut, and so on...
Ahh sorry I got my self confused with my own measurements, the milled out part in the perspex is actually 3.5mm deep, which then allows .5mm for a gasket with 4mm high pins.