Pro/Forums - View Single Post - MCW462-UH inlet modifications

pHaestus · 01-28-2003, 10:35 PM

Noticed the MCW462-UH block on my desk today, and thought about Bill's tests with a swagelock fitting. Making a nozzle on this block improves performance markedly, as shown here:

http://www.overclockers.com/articles655/index02.asp

I have no Swagelock fittings, so I decided to see what I could come up with using parts around the house. Here is what the Swiftech block's inlet looked like before any alterations:

I used a 5/8" ID barb with 1/2" NPT threads for the connector to the hoses. I first took a piece of 1/2" ID thickwall silicone and cut it to the size of the empty threads in the inlet:

Basically we are at the 1/2" copper pipe point on Bill's graph now. Not the best place to be. So I took the original 1/2" hosebarb that came with the block and cut the end off the barb:

I sanded it down to a smoother finish and did all I could to get it round again. I then stuffed the barb into the silicone tubing to make a (roughly) 3/8" ID nozzle on the inlet:

I haven't tested it yet, but I think it should work reasonably well.

01-28-2003, 10:35 PM	#1
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	MCW462-UH inlet modifications Noticed the MCW462-UH block on my desk today, and thought about Bill's tests with a swagelock fitting. Making a nozzle on this block improves performance markedly, as shown here: http://www.overclockers.com/articles655/index02.asp I have no Swagelock fittings, so I decided to see what I could come up with using parts around the house. Here is what the Swiftech block's inlet looked like before any alterations: I used a 5/8" ID barb with 1/2" NPT threads for the connector to the hoses. I first took a piece of 1/2" ID thickwall silicone and cut it to the size of the empty threads in the inlet: Basically we are at the 1/2" copper pipe point on Bill's graph now. Not the best place to be. So I took the original 1/2" hosebarb that came with the block and cut the end off the barb: I sanded it down to a smoother finish and did all I could to get it round again. I then stuffed the barb into the silicone tubing to make a (roughly) 3/8" ID nozzle on the inlet: I haven't tested it yet, but I think it should work reasonably well.