Quote:
Originally posted by Gulp35
I see the pics now, but have a question. Why do you need to shrink down to 3/8" from 1/2" and then having the cap.
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At this time it is the only way I can affix the cap. It doesn't hurt flow since your going to 1/8 inch hole anyways. If you thread the center barb hole completely through you should be able screw in a nipple that has been cut to size with the cap soldered on to it or the cap screwed on to the nipple. You might need to file the threaded side of the cap down to get the correct height if needed.
If you have 1 inch holes a bigger cap and threaded copper pipe that fits the barb holes you could do it easily just using the threaded barb hole. That's my next step in this block. Then the height of the nozzle can be completely adjustable. Then I like to add micro channels with the center cut out so that the cap will fit in perfectly directing the flow. I will round the corners of the cap first. Problem is all I got is a dremmil.
The cap keeps the flow of heated water from swirling back and getting recycled into the impingement. So it helps keep a constant cooler water where it needs to be.
The slight taper also keeps the base from flexing or warping. The same reason builders use arches and triangles when building bridges - it's just upside down in this case. It allows a thinner base directly in the center.