Wow. I don't think you know what you are letting yourself into. Phase change cooling requires a bit more research than I think you've put into this (so far). Believe me, I'm going to do my best, but what you really seem to need is a crash course on phase change cooling in general and HVAC repair in particular.
- I do have an idea of what I'm letting myself into, but not enough to completely build the system. Hence the reason Im posting here.
Let's start with the first problem. How can anyone help you if you don't say what the model number is for your compressor?
- Ive googled for the model number before and got nothing. Ill get a picture and the model number soon.
Second, I doubt it's double loop. You might have two extra tubes (one on inlet and one on outlet) for monitoring and fill points. Someone else (hopefully) knows more about that than I do. But, the best place to get info on your compressor is from the manufacturer.
- I havent tried contacting whirlpool, I guess i need to do that.
Second, did you know that the oily fluid you drained out was supposed to be there?
- I was concerned a lot of it could be condensation, which i figured could cause rust. Therefor I tilted it on its side till most of it came out.
It might be POE or it might be mineral oil depending upon whether the compressor was designed for newer (non-CFC) gases or if it was designed for the good old R-12 or R-22 style gases. If you decide to go with propane, you should use mineral oil, and if you go with R-134a, you should use a POE type lubricant.
- I'm pretty sure its not R134a designed, as its an older compresoor(Though it was never used, and has the original pipe plugs in it). Chances are, it was mineral oil and potentially condensation like i said.
Did you know that you have to clean out your compressor if it was using the other lubricant? Did you know that compressors are designed for one particular gas (they might be able to use others at a reduced efficiency though)?
- Yes, I know i must clean it. Since I am un aware out what fluids where in the compressor, I figured I should flush it thouroughly and start from scratch. Yes I know compressors are designed for one gas. I am prepared to take a drop in effeciency by using r290.
Do you know how to calculate the required cap tube size?
- No. I know it is dependent on refridgerant, but is it dependent on compressor model/power also?
Do you have a set of gauges? If they've ever been used with R-12 systems, make sure you don't use them in a newer system like R-134a because of the minute presence of mineral oil which can damage newer systems.
- No, I'm hopinh my uncle(a refridgeration specialist) can give me some help in filling the system. He has the appropriate gauges I beleive.
Preventing "stagnation" is important, true. However, the primary problem is the LUBRICANT, not the refrigerant. If you don't get the lubricant (which is dissolved in the refrigerant) back to the compressor, you can expect a smoking compressor real soon. Basically, use common sense. Depend upon the fact that liquids fall "faster" than gasses, and that the lubricant will move best with gravity instead of against it. Look at typical refrigerator/freezer designs. Do they have the compressed gas going into the TOP of the condensor or the bottom? After the phase change is complete, don't worry. Everything will get pushed. It's where the phase changes happen that you need to worry. Look up things like "accumulator bulb" and "flooded evaporator" using your favorite search engine.
- Will do.
I recommend propane because of it's cost per unit of performance. Unless you have a source for the more exotic refrigerants, it's hard to beat propane. Some people are concerned because propane is flammable, but just be careful. You'll only be using 2-6 ounces anyway (unless you have a really large or just badly designed system).
- Thats good to hear.
Yes, you'll need a vacuum pump. If you leave water in the system (by not evacuating it), you will be very likely to burn up your system. Water has a habit of eating up compressors because it interacts with the lubricants and the refrigerant to form hydrofloric acid. Also, even if you don't think it will get that cold, water can very easily plug up your capillary tube.
- As long as no water was in the system when I assembled it, and if I fill it prior to a rapid change in tempature(causing condensation) I should be able to avoid water in the system I thought? Can I use an old compressor as a vacuum pump? My uncle may have a vacuum pump.
How do you control your compressor? Use a thermocouple to sense temp, and make it bistable so that it comes on at a higher temp than it turns off (otherwise it will flutter around the turnon/turnoff temp).
- The compressor has no present control system.
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