It's supposed to work like you say T~E, it reduces surface tension, but whether it does provide any noticable cooling enhancement I don't know for sure. I know people (BillA for one) have had problems with WW varients 'slimeing up the tubing, but again I don't know if this is down to incorect mixture. If anything it's the anti~growth anti~corrosion aspects/claims that are 'ambiguos' IMO ...
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If those bubbles don't move I doubt you're getting any water flowing in those places
, lowering the hight would be a good idea to boost velocity through the block, and I can't see those fins carrying heat up very high, not that high anyway!, 3~4mm would be good for that thickness I think...
For the top I personaly would use brass and solder copper/brass tubing onto it in place of barbs, it does'nt have to be so 'thick' if it's not threaded. Lexan is VERY hard to get hold of in the UK, it's VERY expensive to buy it by the sheet as well (£150+!!, for 4'x8'x5mm, it'd need to be thicker for threading as well!), some bus shelters are made from Lexan, the vandal~proof 'glass' ones
, maybe take your rechargable jigsaw with you next time you take a bus anywhere!
. I would'nt use plexiglass as it's even more brittle/prone to crack, if you do be careful
(edit!, noticed you DO
)...
Have you found a pic of the T/T 1U P4 HS yet?, seen how dense the fins are?, they're about 50~50 fin to water ratio I believe!. I'd like to try fin heights between 3~5mm to see what's best on a T~Bred sized core...
PS, the only thing you realy need is a 'jet'/orrofice to spread the inlet~water across the width of the CPU die, it's probably not spreading out to the edges at the moment...