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Unread 04-24-2003, 07:34 PM   #4
mad mikee
Cooling Savant
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: US of A!!!!
Posts: 146
Damn I knew I should have kept the rev1 parts...

If you check out the maximizing flow article on the front page this will make more sense. :shrug:

What I am describing is a variant of Ph's method modified for the 1250 which 1) removes any flow restriction at the inlet and 2) speeds up bubble removal to an immediate timeframe.
Doesn't have to be at the highest point (in mine it is in fact the lowest) and is easy/low-tech to make.
I will have pictures of the new version within 2 weeks as I work on mad mikees concoction.

This is assuming you have the room of course.

I got spare parts from eheim.com for the inlet, o-ring and locking ring. (~ 10$?) Also got (1"?) nylon threaded bushing at hardware store (almost perfect fit, just needed some sanding on the inside for a slide fit). Then I found a small tuperware (2-3" diam, NOT THE CLEAR STUFF, Translucent (polypropylene)) and after cutting the right sized hole to screw in the bushing and then the barb you got on the other side (can be straight on or at the side, you are in essence breaking the flow here but it still works fine), (can add another fitting on for a fill tube if you want, suggest at lower point to allow fill/drain as needed, can always bend tube up when not in use), used plumbers goop to glue all that together. Then slid the bushing over the spare inlet (PUT LOCKING RING ON FIRST!!!) and gooped that together. Then added another layer of goop over every inside joint again after leak testing and finding you need MORE GOOP!!

While waiting for everything to cure, go find local aquarium store and get some of the coarse filter material (1 box of the blue stuff should last a LONG time) and cut a piece big enough to shove in the tupperware to keep any whirlpools from forming.

When this concoction (yes this is a reservoir) passes leak testing, take the pump / inlet reservoir and fill w/ fill tube, then plug and get the fill tube out of the way.

My original version had multiple inlets to the res from CPU / GPU / NB so looked sort of nightmarish but worked like a charm.

If there is no way to get this to fit, then of course the rule of thumb is if it has threads, tape it alot!.
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His PCV2000
DFI ULTRA D (SLI Modded just because) 4200 x2 @ ~ 10 x 260 /1.49 Vcore , G5 + PA160 + 150mm Papst@5V + Maze 4 GPU + mcp350. Temp 36-37(load-2 x D20L) 2x1GB Ballistix PC4000, x800xl 256m, 74G rap + 160G Hitachi SATA , 21" mit/nec 1920x1440 Crt + 19 Neovo F-419 1280x1024 LCD, OCZ Powerstream 600

Hers: (my beloved who lets me do all this)
LianLi PCV1000, SD3700 @ 9x300, 1GB GBLA, 250+ 120 SATA, X700pro, 19" Neovo F-419 LCD, another OCZ 600
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