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BladeRunner · 05-12-2003, 06:48 AM

speedy4500

I've worked in many formulas, mainly single seater including Renault sport, F3000 and Formula ford, I work as self employed and contract out to whatever team, It has it's moments but for the most is just work... a job, and at times hard work.

GTA

I decided to stick with the blue fittings as it did look a bit odd once I had them all silver, lack of colour I guess. Most of the reason to stay with the blue though was I wanted to get it done and got fed up making the silver ones after a few failures trying to make the other three

The splitter block was intend for another system but I may keep it in my main system and make another similar but smaller one for the other system. Tube wise it's not much tidier atm, but part of that is due to the splitter required to get two of the 8mm's to 6mms for the HDD block & 2x Radeon 9700 ram blocks. I will be migrating the system over to all 8mm fitting blocks as I replace the hardware. I have already done the PSU block that is now 8mm, (was 6mm), and I have just installed a new mobo and CPU (Abit NF7-s rev2 & Barton XP 2500), so decided to make a new nb block too so now all the blocks in my set-up are my own custom made, ( the old nb block was a modified early DD vga block). I made a mobo power fets wb yesterday as they were getting to 77C. I tried a heatsink first but this was getting to hot with no forced air flow at 63C.

Had to use artic silver thermal epoxy to fix it to the fets, I hate gluing things but not really much other option. Anyway if mixed three parts one part of each epoxy tube and one of artic silver 3 paste, it remains a bit rubbery wnhen cured so is not a premant bond and can be removed, (at least in doing it this way the sink came off ok.... with a little force). I also did the same with the southbridge, (they get quite hot on NF2), so now hottest items in the PC with it under full load with no fans or forced airflow in a 21C ambient is a coil on the mobo near the fets @ 43C, and the southbridge, (with sink) @ 42°C.

Some pics of the PC taken in the last few days . (you'll notice the temporary splitter "dangling" next to the Fixed splitter). as said once everything is 8mm Festo it wont be required.

Plans are underway to try to make blocks like mine as retail items, but it's not an easy thing to productionise.

mashie

Thanks for that. There are quite a few makers of push fit fittings, I must make a list and put in on my site, (along with all the other updates it badly needs). The thing I like most about those particular Festo fittings is they have a nice rounded outer stainless steel sleeve and no external nut hex.

t00lb0x

What Rayman2k2 said, although he missed one important ingredient........ elbow grease. You have to be prepared to put in the effort to get results, and my blocks look a mess until they are in a finished form. Think of it like car body repairs...... if you just slap in some filler and paint it the result will look shite, and probably fall out, but if you take time to prepare, fill, sand, repeat etc, and apply the paint properly it will look as good as new. Check my sig link, to my site, as it has all the block build details of how I make the blocks. Most of them were done without a mill, just basic hand tools. The more complex recent stuff does really require a proper mill however. Also look at some of the block topics in this forum as I'm not the only one making my own water-blocks.

05-12-2003, 06:48 AM	#100
BladeRunner Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Chesterfield Uk Posts: 459	speedy4500 I've worked in many formulas, mainly single seater including Renault sport, F3000 and Formula ford, I work as self employed and contract out to whatever team, It has it's moments but for the most is just work... a job, and at times hard work. GTA I decided to stick with the blue fittings as it did look a bit odd once I had them all silver, lack of colour I guess. Most of the reason to stay with the blue though was I wanted to get it done and got fed up making the silver ones after a few failures trying to make the other three The splitter block was intend for another system but I may keep it in my main system and make another similar but smaller one for the other system. Tube wise it's not much tidier atm, but part of that is due to the splitter required to get two of the 8mm's to 6mms for the HDD block & 2x Radeon 9700 ram blocks. I will be migrating the system over to all 8mm fitting blocks as I replace the hardware. I have already done the PSU block that is now 8mm, (was 6mm), and I have just installed a new mobo and CPU (Abit NF7-s rev2 & Barton XP 2500), so decided to make a new nb block too so now all the blocks in my set-up are my own custom made, ( the old nb block was a modified early DD vga block). I made a mobo power fets wb yesterday as they were getting to 77C. I tried a heatsink first but this was getting to hot with no forced air flow at 63C. Had to use artic silver thermal epoxy to fix it to the fets, I hate gluing things but not really much other option. Anyway if mixed three parts one part of each epoxy tube and one of artic silver 3 paste, it remains a bit rubbery wnhen cured so is not a premant bond and can be removed, (at least in doing it this way the sink came off ok.... with a little force). I also did the same with the southbridge, (they get quite hot on NF2), so now hottest items in the PC with it under full load with no fans or forced airflow in a 21C ambient is a coil on the mobo near the fets @ 43C, and the southbridge, (with sink) @ 42°C. Some pics of the PC taken in the last few days . (you'll notice the temporary splitter "dangling" next to the Fixed splitter). as said once everything is 8mm Festo it wont be required. Plans are underway to try to make blocks like mine as retail items, but it's not an easy thing to productionise. mashie Thanks for that. There are quite a few makers of push fit fittings, I must make a list and put in on my site, (along with all the other updates it badly needs). The thing I like most about those particular Festo fittings is they have a nice rounded outer stainless steel sleeve and no external nut hex. t00lb0x What Rayman2k2 said, although he missed one important ingredient........ elbow grease. You have to be prepared to put in the effort to get results, and my blocks look a mess until they are in a finished form. Think of it like car body repairs...... if you just slap in some filler and paint it the result will look shite, and probably fall out, but if you take time to prepare, fill, sand, repeat etc, and apply the paint properly it will look as good as new. Check my sig link, to my site, as it has all the block build details of how I make the blocks. Most of them were done without a mill, just basic hand tools. The more complex recent stuff does really require a proper mill however. Also look at some of the block topics in this forum as I'm not the only one making my own water-blocks. __________________ Zero Fan Zone Last edited by BladeRunner; 04-19-2004 at 03:48 AM.