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Originally posted by MadDogMe
I'd make a paper template (like Rotor does for his blocks) to mark out/make the punchholes for starting the drill off. You should'nt have any trouble with a 3.5mm drill, I've used one for loads of 5mm deep holes (well 4mm!)...
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i have just finished making a template and with 3.5mm holes and .5mm space. The only problem is the 0.5mm leaves me no room for mistake what so ever. if i make the gap any bigger the number of tubes / dimples is reduced.
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How about using silicon sealant for the tubes?. I know you want something alot less viscous realy but at least you know it's 100% waterproof  . You could make the initial holes 0.5mm bigger to make room for the adhesive. I like BB's idea of a jig using tack/pins tapped/pressed into a soft piece of wood (block of balsa?) to hold the outlet ends precisely in place...
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what if i make a chamber on the tube plate that will face the base then seal around the tubes with silicon so the water cant get to the super glue but still leaving enough room for the water to flow.
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O/T'ish: I'm getting a wierd result in testing two different rads with your block you sent me. Ones a heatercore with 18cm x 19cm finned area the other is a 2 x 120mm fan PC rad. When I tested them both with the maze3 they both performed identicaly. Now using your block the heatercore is beating the 2 x 120mm rad by 2~2.5DegC!, plus I'm only using 1 x 120mm fan on the HC and two on the PC rad...
Why would block A produce a 2DegC difference in two rads when Block B produces very close/the~same temps??...
I'm damn sure the room temp has'nt dropped in the 1hr 20mins it's taken me to change the rads and get the temps up with Prime95. I only have an aquarium flat plastic thermo' to read room temps but it has'nt changed. The only thing I can think of is the HC lets your block 'breath' better, is less restrictive :shrug: ...
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i only have heater core type not any rads. the heater cores have the least flow restriction so you might be right. Have you flushed the rad maybee it has a blockage causing more restriction than before.
I normaly find that room temps rise when i am testing too not drop by 2C
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[/b]PS, I'm getting a bit worried about the blocks inlet getting soft, you used Araldite did'nt you?. I'm wondering if silicone sealant would hold it in instead?. The outlets would be OK with it because they're a tighter fit and don't rely on the adhesive to hold them 'steady', but do you think the inlet would get 'levered out'?... [/b]
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On that block i used some other clear epoxy not the araldite instant clear i use now but it's still epoxy so i guess where the water is making contact it will be getting soft. Wont the epoxy on the top be enough to hold it in place ?
as the squashed tube inlet peforms worse than a WW style jet plate i might go back to threaded barbs cutting out the epoxy problem.
It would be intersting to see how the epoxy is doing should i send you your maze3 back before it's too late ?
the silicon might not hold the inlet inplace depending on tube placement and how much pressure is on them when in the rig.
If i find any good copper in the morning i will get enough for you as well if you want some.