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Unread 06-10-2003, 04:16 PM   #5
jaydee
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
Default Re: How to test a homemade block?

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Originally posted by bigben2k
Following this thread, I propose that we, together, come up with a way to test a home made waterblock.
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First, I have to stress that this is strictly for a single user, making a single block, with extremely limited resources.
Fail to understand why it is so important that a single user's block really needs tested. If the user built it, and he/she is happy with it, then whats the point? Bragging rights? Is this what we are going to do, make a bragging right test method?

We should all book mark these.


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#1: First, I'd like to check that everyone agrees that a flow test is important, if not at least for the increase in understanding about pumps and pressure, at least to gain an understanding about the block's performance.
Well I guess. Not sure what it really matters if it is just a DIY block though. But if the block is going to be modified then it can be of some use.
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How?: The old, innacurate bucket test. Take two buckets, one full, one empty, and run the water from one bucket to the other, and time it. The longer the test, the more accurate it will be. This should be done with the pump and block alone. We can then have a rough idea of what the block is capable of, using the pump's curve.

Error: the added tubing, the height difference (if any) between the two vessels, and variations in the pump's performance, compared to the curve.
Probably be better to have a bucket marked at a certain point then the source of the water be larger than that marked pont. Your not going to be to sucessfull in getting the last half gallon out of the second bucket in other words. I used to just fill the bath tub up and then pump in to a 5 gal bucket that was market at 5 gallons and then timed it. Do it 5 times and pull an average.

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Now, let's see what we can do about the actual performance of the block, shall we?

What *load* program should we recommend?
Toast, CPU Burn, something of the sort. Need to come up with one standard one that everyone would be using.
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Can we assume that most people have a HSF, for reference purposes?
I would think so.
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Can we trust a manufacturer's program (i.e. AsusProbe), or should we stick with the popular MBM, or just the BIOS (for *idle*)?
I always liked MBprobe myself. http://mbprobe.livewiredev.com/ Seems to read the same as MBM but a hell of a lot simpler to use.
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Can we assume that MBM reads the CPU diode accurately for any mobo?
Not really. We also need to know which probe it is reading off of, internal or external.
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I think we can all agree that although knowing exactly which CPU was used, there is no point in claiming an actual power output from it. So if we can't measure Watts, are we limited to temperatures only?
I would think so. The watt calculators are worthless. Each board will run a CPU a little different than another even with identical settings so power usage in the equasion really isn't a option.

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Using a reference (i.e. the HSF), can one state temperature differentials, and trust those readings?
Probably not.
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Is measuring the water temp irrelevant?
Stumped on this one.
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Can we establish, for certain, the amount of time that the system needs to "sit still", in order for temperatures to stabilize?
No. It takes how ever long it takes. Going to vary depending on the system. But it should be easlily figured out by the tester when equelibrium has set in.
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About the TIM joint:
Would it be fair to say that mounting it three times (let's forget about ten, for now) would give us a fair assesment of the performance?
Not sure on this one. I would be pretty sure of myself at 3 times, but what about a newb that hasn't installed blocks 100's of times?
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Should it be left to settle for 48 hours, each time, or can it be "burned in", and for how long?
Don't know.
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Should we just skip the paste, and use a thermal pad, just for testing?
Don't know.

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About the room temp:
I think it's necessary (!), but I don't see the point in stating the mobo's temp. Can we state, once and for all, that the room temperature has to be measured, using a good old fashion thermometer?
Would think so.
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Is the humidity relevant?
Could be, does moist air cool better than dry air?


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Many Q's... IMO, all a home user can do, is state a temp difference, as an inprovement over a HSF, or a previous version of his block, at Idle, and at load.
Still don't understand what idle temps have to do with anything.
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Let's clear all this up, once and for all, OK? We can make an article out of it, and reference it, instead of flaming the new faces that show up in here!
Don't think it will be all to easy. And telling someone their testing method is BS is not a flame.
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