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#Rotor · 06-18-2003, 06:29 PM

I used stainless steel fishing tackle wire, the kind you use in making spinner baits and stuff....

getting the tension uniform is done by a process called "tuning the block" it is a wee bit time consuming, but it is recommended, whether you use this method, or the through hole method.

those blocks where designed in the good old days of slockets and K6-2 CPU's, where the 6tab socket-A's just started to role off of production, I had to provide for both. using all 6 is not required at all, the corners is way more than enough....

those red and black wires are the electric leads of two 172W peltiers, one in each block...

heheh ya, those hard drive blocks are something else, they sure way a ton, (almost)

for the Block

I am actually bargaining on the water doing exactly just that, Taking the shortest path across....... Why, because the faster I can get each molecule to get in close proximity to the hot sides or pins in the block, and then the hell outa there, the faster a fresh cool molecule can come in after it... I also use a design principle I call VDFC.

leaking at the seam, that problem gets solved by having 2 bolts on either side of where the barbs go, to insure mechanical rigidity, also that I thread the barb holes a tad bit deeper, than usual, and then, by using Teflon tape, one do not need to have as much torque on them while still getting the perfect seal....

I have some custom made brackets, enabling the block, or rather, the drive, to be mounted on the block, I do not remove anything from the drive, nether do I use any paste, It is really not necessary, a hard drive do not produce it's heat fast enough to warrant such measures. The sheer size of the transfer junction, even with no thermal compound, is way more than enough to do a perfect job at cooling the drive....

the sides of the drive is good.... yes, but you then need to have two blocks, to insure, thermal uniformity.

I prefer the top, remember that the insides of the drive, still get cooled by the air that circulate while it is spinning, and the top plate is as good as one can hope for, to get to that air. But to be honest, you can even just slap your maze block on it as is, anywhere you can find a flat spot.... you will be amazed at how much of a difference it will make.....

The only reasons I make my HD-blocks that big, is so I can fit two drives to one block, and for mounting purposes, the block is treated like just another drive, even has the holes tapped to the same spec as those in a drive itself, makes installation a breeze.

06-18-2003, 06:29 PM	#4
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	I used stainless steel fishing tackle wire, the kind you use in making spinner baits and stuff.... getting the tension uniform is done by a process called "tuning the block" it is a wee bit time consuming, but it is recommended, whether you use this method, or the through hole method. those blocks where designed in the good old days of slockets and K6-2 CPU's, where the 6tab socket-A's just started to role off of production, I had to provide for both. using all 6 is not required at all, the corners is way more than enough.... those red and black wires are the electric leads of two 172W peltiers, one in each block... heheh ya, those hard drive blocks are something else, they sure way a ton, (almost) for the Block I am actually bargaining on the water doing exactly just that, Taking the shortest path across....... Why, because the faster I can get each molecule to get in close proximity to the hot sides or pins in the block, and then the hell outa there, the faster a fresh cool molecule can come in after it... I also use a design principle I call VDFC. leaking at the seam, that problem gets solved by having 2 bolts on either side of where the barbs go, to insure mechanical rigidity, also that I thread the barb holes a tad bit deeper, than usual, and then, by using Teflon tape, one do not need to have as much torque on them while still getting the perfect seal.... I have some custom made brackets, enabling the block, or rather, the drive, to be mounted on the block, I do not remove anything from the drive, nether do I use any paste, It is really not necessary, a hard drive do not produce it's heat fast enough to warrant such measures. The sheer size of the transfer junction, even with no thermal compound, is way more than enough to do a perfect job at cooling the drive.... the sides of the drive is good.... yes, but you then need to have two blocks, to insure, thermal uniformity. I prefer the top, remember that the insides of the drive, still get cooled by the air that circulate while it is spinning, and the top plate is as good as one can hope for, to get to that air. But to be honest, you can even just slap your maze block on it as is, anywhere you can find a flat spot.... you will be amazed at how much of a difference it will make..... The only reasons I make my HD-blocks that big, is so I can fit two drives to one block, and for mounting purposes, the block is treated like just another drive, even has the holes tapped to the same spec as those in a drive itself, makes installation a breeze. __________________ There is no Spoon....