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I used stainless steel fishing tackle wire, the kind you use in making spinner baits and stuff....
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OK, that sounds plenty strong enough, any particular size, or does it matter?
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getting the tension uniform is done by a process called "tuning the block" it is a wee bit time consuming, but it is recommended, whether you use this method, or the through hole method.
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I don't recognize the term, could you point me at a definition or explanation?
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those red and black wires are the electric leads of two 172W peltiers, one in each block...
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Out of my league though, I don't think I need pelts for what I'm trying to do.
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I am actually bargaining on the water doing exactly just that, Taking the shortest path across.......
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Makes sense, but I'd think the water in the far end would tend to get hot and stagnant (comparatively speaking) while the cool water took the short cut and didn't do much work. I probably would have left one row of holes uncut down the center for most of the length of the block to force the water to make a trip up and back. However whatever works, and as much mass as those blocks have it probably doesn't matter that much.
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I also use a design principle I call VDFC.
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Care to define? I know you advocate high flow volumes, is this something to do with it?
Nice design, I hadn't realized the blocks were so thick.
I think I may end up sticking with my idea of doing a tube on a plate though. I think I've found the case I want to use, it's a dual chamber server case with a layout like the YYC case reviewed here:
http://www.procooling.com/reviews/ht...ase_review.php
It will be big, but at least it has wheels
I figure that I can hang the rad off the back over the exhaust fans on the drive side. The upper fan will pull accross the drives. If I use a block like yours that flow will be mostly blocked. But if I put a thinner plate (I'm guessing ~1/2" if I put 1/4" tubing on a 1/8" plate) then I can space the drives in every other bay, with a gap between them. Then the water cools the top and inside of the drive, and the air will funnel through the gap and cool the controller board. Some might say I wouldn't need to cool the drives at all; but I think it would be better to have the heat in the radiator with cool air blowing through it than to be blowing drive warmed air through the rad.
Gooserider