Gooserider
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"Ever hear of a 'Chinese Finger Trap'? Pulling on the hose is like trying to get out of one with a straight pull. Water pressure is going to work more in a direction to make the hose slip".
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I get what you are saying but we are not using high pressure supply pumps, I would doubt most systems would achieved 1 bar and the higher rated pumps maybe 2 or 3 max. If you knew just how solid the tubes are on the barbs you'd see why I'm confident they wont slip or blow off, I'm not suggesting you should follow but my set-up is 50% about image as well, to me hose clamps look ugly and are not required in my setup. I can get a max of 150psi (10.5 bar) with my compressor so I will try it sometime. my guess is the tube will not blow off even though it will expand somewhat with 10.5bar.
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Do you have a recommended source / brand, or is it just something you happened to find? I'm in the process (in a different window) of getting a nice flow sensor for $10 here http://sales.goldmine-elec.com/Index.asp as I send this message. It's a rotor type, and I'm not sure how easily it can do flow measurement, but it has an adjustable flow failure detection relay and appears to be a nice unit otherwise.
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The liquid level sensor I have is a soild state. go here
www.rswww.com and type 317-803 it their search engine. Not used it yet so can't comment on it further. I bought two flow switches from the same site, (one was a flow sensor), and the sensor was to restrictive and had an impeller which = noise so no good. The simple float switch I'm using has been 100% reliable so far & I test it twice a week. It is very low restriction and silent after the initial flow created click.
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Your blocks certainly are beautiful in the pictures, your finishing work is incredible. Aside from looks, is there a reason for such a high polish on the non-contact surfaces? (I agree with lapping the contact surface, but was thinking more in terms of wire wheeling the rest...) I also noticed that you say you pressure test before finishing, but not after. Seems to me like there is a slight but present risk that a leak could be created by disturbing/removing the solder that was covering it before finishing. Is there reasoning for doing it this way, or did you leave something out of your process descriptions?
As to seal grooves, I wasn't planning on them. I was planning to use flat surfaces with a liberal layer of RTV or aviation Form-a-gasket between them, with 6/32 bolts holding things together. I might also use a thin gasket, but didn't think it was really needed.
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This is where I'm coming from, you are both getting carried away with overly complex protection systems and your block sealing idea is in my opinion very flawed. We use RTV and other sealants at work and while they are good to stop most leaking they are bad when it comes to small leaks weeps. I would NEVER seal any block that I was going to use in my system with silicon sealant. In a water-cooling system you want zero leaks IMO and that is what BB2K and myself are trying to get over... prevention is much better than any cure...
I use soldering for the reasons mention before and if the soldering is done correctly is 99.99999999999% never going to leak. I do leak test the block at all stages but if I put every intricate detail in my build articles it would be a tedious read for the less technically minded folks, so I have to strike a balance. I do test them less now than I did, as I'm more confident of getting a 100% soldered seal everytime now than perhaps I was to start with, experience counts I guess
I never originally intended getting mad with the finish of the blocks when I first started but I like them looking nice. If cooper is left it will tarnish and look horrid, some people may not care about this but I do.
