[Gooserider]

Solarian League: hah true i'm going to be running a dual OS box, on raptor 1 i will have window 2k pro, then on raptor 2 i will probably have some sort of linux running not sure what version but obiviously something that can handle my hardware

A couple of notes from my Linux experience - Unless you are planning to do separate drives that you change to change O/S's (not reccomended, as it's a PITA, and you always find you need data on the drive you aren't running) be careful doing the installs - MS products don't play nicely with other O/S's (Just like MS itself...) it is generally best to install Windows 1st, then put Linux on second as Linux is more willing and able to re-arrange things so that both O/S's can co-exist smoothly.
As to hardware support, most REAL hardware devices are pretty well supported, the problem is with 'Win-modems' and other such O/S dependent hardware, which you don't want anyways for the way it kills your system performance under any O/S. The other problem is with a few manufacturers that won't release enough information on their interfaces to allow the Open Source folks to do good drivers for their products. However for at least the major distributions there isn't a lot of difference in the hardware supported.
I currently use Red Hat and find it's OK as long as you don't try to do much upgrading. I am inclined on the next box to try Debian, or possibly one of the new 'Source based' distributions (Which are only reccomended if you have broadband speed connectivity)

another benefit of my system setup is the lian-li 75 case i'm buying comes with a preinstalled window so i can just peek into the window say everytime i'm around just peek into the window to see if anything looks bad, if so then open it up other wise stay the **** out. then say maybe onice a month or so, open that window and closely inspect all the critical spot for rust, corrosion, etc... all of that fun stuff

Reasonable, but note that unless you have a leak, you will NOT see any rust or corrosion. To get either requires exposure to water or high humidity. (BTW, it is only steel that 'rusts' non-ferrous materials like copper either oxidize or corrode...)

BladeRunner: Gooserider quote: "Ever hear of a 'Chinese Finger Trap'? ..." I get what you are saying but we are not using high pressure supply pumps, I would doubt most systems would achieved 1 bar and the higher rated pumps maybe 2 or 3 max. ... I'm confident they wont slip or blow off, I'm not suggesting you should follow but my set-up is 50% about image as well, to me hose clamps look ugly and are not required in my setup. I can get a max of 150psi (10.5 bar) with my compressor so I will try it sometime.

You might be surprised - I've mentioned being a motorcyclist, and one of the things I've found is that a properly fitted hand grip just about can't be moved by twisting or pulling on it. But stick an airhose between the grip and the bar, and it will come off with no trouble at all (volume counts more than pressure BTW).
I agree that hose clamps are ugly, which is why I was suggesting use of zip-ties. Pulled tight and cut, a good zip-tie is almost as solid as a hose clamp, and close to invisible. I use them on our swimming pool robot's hoses, the stock fittings kept blowing apart, and you don't want to use a standard hose clamp because of problems with the pool chemistry and the sharp edges. But I haven't had a failure since I put zip ties on the problem fittings.

The liquid level sensor I have is a soild state. go here ...

Thanks for the link, I just checked it out though, and I don't think it does what I want. I am thinking in terms of a 'gas guage' equivalent, this switch looks like it just turns on and off when it reaches a certain depth. I could be wrong though, the site didn't want to give me a data sheet w/o registering, and the US site they sent me to didn't seem to have the part, so all I had to go on was the description on the page.

This is where I'm coming from, you are both getting carried away with overly complex protection systems and your block sealing idea is in my opinion very flawed. We use RTV and other sealants at work and while they are good to stop most leaking they are bad when it comes to small leaks weeps. I would NEVER seal any block that I was going to use in my system with silicon sealant. In a water- cooling system you want zero leaks IMO and that is what BB2K and myself are trying to get over... prevention is much better than any cure... I use soldering for the reasons mention before and if the soldering is done correctly is 99.99999999999% never going to leak.

I agree that ANY leakage is unacceptable, so I'm glad I picked up some plumbing solder and flux the other day (I noticed you use electronics solder, but that seems problematic to me because of the lead.) I know I don't have trouble on my bike most of the time, but I'm a bit less fussy on it as well, and am working with larger parts that HAVE to be dis-assembleable.

BTW, do you solder in your non-Festo barbs (or reccomend it) or do you seal them some other way? (Teflon tape and plumbers dope is what some seem to use)

Yes, I am perhaps over concerned about protection systems, but I *HOPE* they would never be needed. If they are, it means I made a mistake in my design. I'm just trying to allow for being human and also fend of that B*****D lawyer Murphy...

I do leak test the block at all stages but if I put every intricate detail in my build articles it would be a tedious read for the less technically minded folks, so I have to strike a balance. I do test them less now than I did, as I'm more confident of getting a 100% soldered seal everytime now than perhaps I was to start with, experience counts I guess

Thanks for the clarification, it was just something that bothered me given the care you took everywhere else. I understand about wanting to keep things breif, although at the same time you seem to put in the same process in each article - perhaps a more detailed single article 'How I finish my blocks' with a pointer to it in the others?

I never originally intended getting mad with the finish of the blocks when I first started but I like them looking nice. If cooper is left it will tarnish and look horrid, some people may not care about this but I do.

I agree that it is good to make them look nice, I just didn't know if there was some other reason as well. I'm a bit less fussy than you are about appearances, so I think I'll stick with my original notion of wire-wheeling the non contact surfaces and then clear coating with a spray bomb. Sort of an 'anodised' look instead of the polished look.

Gooserider