[Gooserider]

bigben2k: New heatercores are tested to 25 psi, and I wouldn't exceed that.

Thanks for the info, it's about what I was guessing. After all the rads are probably the flimsiest items in a typical WC system. This isn't a fault, just an observation noting that a heavily built rad would probably also really stink as a heat exchanger.

Solarian League: ... anyway thanks for ur help on the linux thing, i'll take a look at some of the to do guide, anyway i want to setup so linux has one whole harddrive to itself, aka the second raptor, hopfully it should be able to access the IDE storage drive with no problems.

Double check the HowTo. I believe that if both drives are present in the system at the same time, there is a boot loader that Linux needs to put on the primary boot drive if you want to avoid using a boot floppy. This is just a small boot screen that pops up and asks which OS to load (you can have several) and then redirects the boot process to the appropriate boot blocks for the desired OS. This is the way my system works as I keep a small DOS 6.x partition with some of my legacy SW on it. Both OS's should be able to work with the IDE storage drive as long as you format it in something both can read and write to. I know FAT isn't a problem, I think NTFS is OK, but I'm not certain offhand.

BladeRunner: ... but do use clamps if it makes you happier

I may go with zip ties, but yes, some kind of clamps will make me feel better. Like I said, I'm paranoid...

I use electrical solder because it is much easier to work with, flows better at low temps, and contains a flux core, and I doubt the tiny amount of lead in the solder in the water-cooling will cause any problems.

I guess I'll experiment a bit... I'll be using either a propane torch or an oxy-acetelyne rig, so I may be able to do more heat than you get with your torch. (I've even wondered about brass brazing, but am inclined against it overall.)

I've soldered in fittings, but mostly I tap a hole in the block and seal the barb in with either araldite, (epoxy resin), or an expensive motorsport thread locking agent I "acquired" from work Again this is partly for the image factor as visible white tape looks ugly, but also the sealing agents are much less likely to leak or weep than PTFE tape.

I was thinking of soldering in my barbs because I'm not sure about how well the threads would hold in my top (only 1/4" thick). Additionally, I plan to trim some or all of the thread that sticks through the inside of the top so it doesn't obstruct the coolant flow. I don't want to take the barb out after I do that because of possible problems getting it back in, and if I cut it on an angle, aligning it.
I noticed your mentions that you had to deal with the top drifting out of position when soldering the block up, I was thinking that if I put the barbs in place and trimmed them ahead of time, then I could use them as locating pins when doing the solder up, and just flow some solder into the threads while things were still hot.
I am surprised that you consider teflon tape leak prone however - We have teflon taped joints in the plumbing all over the house, and no leaks despite the 110psi mains pressure we were getting. (I agree it can be ugly though)

I think it is good to be concerned about protection systems, just don't loose sight of the real importance....... designing and implementing the system so that they are not actually required or used, even though they are there.

Agreed completely, I don't want to ever need to have installed them, I'd just feel foolish if I hadn't and then had a disaster they could have saved me from.

For instance I made that proximity switch system to ensure the PC cannot be started without the pump plugged into the PC psu, even if another cable is plugged in it wont start up. Overkill? maybe but it really is so easy to forget something this basic when you have been doing things to the system and it could turn into a disaster, simply because the pump wasn't plugged in. If the real truth were known there is probably more water cooling mishaps related to this that actual real pump death.

It is an elegant solution, though I'm planning something a bit different. I plan to make a single power cord going to my 'kill relay' with the pump hard wired to the output of the relay. Unless I have a reason that I must, I don't want to open or mod the PSU if I don't have to, as I prefer to keep the warranty intact. I'm using a PCP&C unit that's expensive enough I want to keep it under warranty.

Yeah I'm going over my site updating stuff, but time is always an issue and to be honest I hate webby stuff, I find it tedious and would rather be making blocks. Probably be a good idea to have a link to a detailed block soldering testing page, (and maybe another link on that page to an abridged version?)

Understandable, and what you have works, I just thought it might save repetition in any future articles you do.

Not sure braided hose is an ideal as it tends to be stiff so may stress block fittings or their mountings. Can't really beat Tygon for standard barbs, it is thick walled but flexible and kink resistant, all in all good stuff if not cheap

The stuff at the local store seems pretty flexible, though I haven't compared it to Tygon. I may see if I can find some Tygon locally to see if I think it's enough better to justify switching to it. I might also do a mixed setup with Tygon for the block plumbing and braided elsewhere - I know I'll be using at least 3-4 different sizes of tubing in my setup so it wouldn't be difficult. I do need to worry some about my block mountings since I have to do a clip-on mount (my mobo won't have the holes for a bolt-on mount, one of it's few flaws IMHO) I'm going to make a 3 lug clip out of 304 stainless, but still...

Gooserider