Quote:
Originally posted by ozzy7750
i have read this thread from the beginning, and i am sure i have read it somewhere, but cant find it again.
where did you get the tubes from lee? and how did you cut them, with a pipe cutter (dunno if mine go that small) or just with a hacksaw?
any results yet? i think i will try to do one similar to this
|
first welcome to the forums and many thanks for reading through this thread.
i get the tubes from a local model shop but they are made by a us company.
http://www.specialshapes.com/brasstubing.asp
Unlike the fin style blocks you just cant drill some holes into the base and point the tubes into them and hope it will work.
there is a balance between the size of the cups and the ID of the tubes. You need to have the total ID of all the tubes between 26mm2 and 30mm2.
the cups need to be perfectly spaced apart as the jet impingment only cools a small area and the cup base needs to be flat.
have at look at the
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6101
started by bigben2k that is where this idea started from and also
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6666
for an idea on what this design can achive when it's made by some one that knows what they are doing.
i used a diamond edge glass cutting wheel in a dremel sitting in a dremel router bench to cut the tubes and then hand file them.
unless you have access to a cnc machine your going to need a cross vice (or x-y vice) and a bench drill (or piller drill) for the base and tube holes doing it by hand is not posible. To make the first mark in the copper use a 1.5mm drill other wise the drill might slip giving uneven cups. Then use 2mm and 2.5mm followed by a 2.5mm end mill for the flat cup bottom.
on my current attempt compared to a maze 3 i have the following
on a p4 1.7 1.5C lower than the maze
on a athlon 1100 2C lower than the maze
good luck