[Gooserider]

BladeRunner: It's hard sometimes to get over a point in text sometimes, ... more just highlighting the types of things that are more likely to cause disasters, (assuming the design and application of the system is solid), before one gets involved in many overly complex protection systems. I believe user error causes most of these things. I once ... heard trickling water. I'd forgotten to plug in one of the PSU fetsos ... half an hour with a hairdryer and a blow gun before I could get back to where I was previously.

I got the point, I was just commenting that it was a very elegant solution... I'm well aware of the problem of user error, I've done more than a few of them myself. One of my favorites is to close the lid on a tool box, but not latch it. Later I go to move it, and dump the box all over the floor. I've now tried to make a rule that I don't close the lid UNLESS I latch it. I try to make analagous policy about assembling things, and avoid putting parts together unless I lock them down as well.

Using an oxy-acetylene rig can prove hard as the copper will tarnish with the heat quicker making it more difficult to get the solder to flow and take. Also heat warpage of the copper can be an issue if you get it too hot.

I mention it as a possibility, since I have both. If I can do it with the propane I will, if only because it's less expensive and less hassle to get the tanks refilled... What I'm thinking of doing is what I see plumbers do. They clean the surfaces with emery cloth and/or a wire brush, then apply a coat of plumbing flux and fit everything together. They then heat the joint with a torch, and the solder wicks into the joint and seals everything up. (Note that in the US it is a serious legal violation to use lead bearing solder in a potable water system, I'm not planning to drink my coolant, but the claim is that the lead free solder they use now is actually better than the lead stuff.

It's unlikely if done well but I've had weeps and minor leaks from household plumbing fittings using PTFE tape in a no pressurised UK style system. As said in PC water-cooling zero leaks/weeps are the order of the day.

Not arguing, just suprised is all, I just had PTFE on my list of more reliable things. (Though I note that our plumber uses PTFE with plumbers dope on top of it)
Of course the threads in a water system will likely be thicker / longer than what I will have in most of my system, making sealing a bit more critical.

I'd send you a small piece of tygon to try if you were not on the other side of the pond, however a foot of it wont cost much if you can find a local supplier.

I appreciate the 'non-offer', thanks. I'm sure I can find someone around here that carries it, the challenge will be to find someone that is willing to sell it in 'retail' quantities. BTW, it's just 'TYGON' correct, or is there some additional descriptive like a formula number or some such?
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I used a socket lug waterblock when I first started over two years ago, and it was a bit of a concern but the choice of blocks was very limited back then. Now I would never put any mobo on my shopping list if it didn't come with socket holes, for waterblock retention.

I sort of agree, but not to the same degree - I wouldn't put not having the holes in the 'no-sale' category, but more in the 'choosing among equals' class. However, I want rock solid, reliable performance, and the Tyan mobo I'm using was consistently named as tops in its class (dual CPU, workstation/server class) for both performance and reliability by sources I trust (not to mention AMD themselves) There really wasn't another board in the same class as this one IMHO, so it really isn't possible to pick a hole-equipped alternative.

Just for interest I did this basic schematic in ms paint the other day that clearly shows how my system flow is configured.

Nice... What was the reasoning behind the routing you chose, was it trying to balance flow restrictions, temperature, or just ease of plumbing?

Boli: Back to the barbs... I have never had any trouble with the brass barbs AT ALL. I use no clamps and even this way I find that a good twisting is required to level the hose of the barb. No leaks of anykind at the connections. The only problem I have with leaks is the pump where I tightened the barb too much a cracked the housing slightly ... Do'h! but the barb itself was not at fault I use the 1/2" brass barbs with generic dagerden 1/2" tubing and the fix is as tight as you need it. (I am not running at extreme presures). ~ Boli

My pressure won't be extreme, but it will be a bit higher than average perhaps - I have an Iwaki MD20RT pump, which has a potential head of 14+ feet, or about 7psi. I believe the pumps most used for WCing have head numbers closer to 8-10 feet, or 4-5 psi. I dont think this will be a problem, just something I need to be aware of. My current plan (Unless someone talks me into something better ) is to use mostly brass barbs which I will stick in a lathe and flatten one or two rings on. (so one edge will look like this: |\|\---|\|\ ) I will then put the hose on, and apply a tight zip tie around the flat area to prevent any possibility of blow offs. On my drive blocks, which will have terminations consisting of the copper tubes they are made from, I will form a 'good' type barb end, and put a zip tie behind, so the hose can't come off accidentally.

Gooserider