Quote:
Originally posted by SCompRacer
I used a large filter housing for mine since its in a full tower. No glued seams, just O-rings and a gasket. I am using the 1/2" OD hoses for the Swiftech pushlock fittings, so 3/8" ID copper was fine for me. Larger tubing would just require a larger fitting and hole in the bottom of the res. It bleeds the air out very quickly.
The smooth bend copper elbows don't harm flow much, not like the sharp right turn plastic fittings.
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Nice job@! That style looks just like the one I am using, until I hook this new res I made. Only difs are yours is glueless

and mine doesn't have the 90° elbow. Good work!
Folks, I think I have got it; a Res with the efficiency of an air-trap!
Well not quite the efficiency, but much better than a regular Res and much less turbulent than an air-trap. It's sorta simple... Just take Turbo's short but wide design and mate it with BigBen's "T". It would be like I posted before. Basically a larger Tube of some kind on the top of at LEAST a 1" or larger T-splitter. With the "large" opening of the 1+" there will be plenty of space for a significant amount of air+water mix to escape to the top. Okay it's not "huge," but consider how much more surface area 1" is over the .37 of a 1/2-ID tube. And if your like me, I'm going to try and make the "T" as large as possible! Though it will take more time to trap air than a standard air-trap, it should do pretty well. Also, the larger tube on the top will provide PLENTY of extra water. Turbulence, should not be as much of a factor as with an
Air-Trap, unless you have something diverting a significant amount of flow up in to the Res...
Another idea I came up with is; since most of use will not be
letting the water level in our Res's (etc.) get to such a low level
that bubbles start to get sucked back down into the system, you could put a little (flat) piece of plastic at an angle/vertical in the middle of the "T," so that a bit more of the incoming air+water will be diverted up into the Res, but not so much that it will start to "fountain" up and create splashing/turbulence. If I had any AutoCad skills I'd make a nice pic, but MS-Paint will have to do... :/
*With the vertical one, I figured that the higher or taller the piece of plastic is, the less chance that the incoming water will be pulled directly back down in the system, which will give the air-bubbles a little more time to float to freedom!? And again my pseudo-fluid-dynamics ideas are not that of fact, just some brain storming that I was doing early this morning... I'm not sure which one I'll go with, but I think it might be the vertical idea. Oh, one more note; if you play around with the depth that the plastic piece protrudes down into the "T," to more or less turbulence and overall amount of incoming water is diverted into the Res... Good luck!
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XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR
10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts
--86' Chevette Heater Core
--1/2" Vinyl tubes
--Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!)

---Home made copper-tube block
---PVC small internal res