Pro/Forums - View Single Post - Re-Design of the Jet Block.

deepblue · 07-22-2003, 04:33 PM

@jd

first up.. i don't get along with inch and that stuff quite so well, so i'll use metric values instead

hm roundbottom cups will surely be much more efficient than any flatbottom cups. you've shown a pretty good example with those little 3ds anims. the hemisphere will guide the water easily along the walls out of the cup whereas the flat bottom will cause massive turbulences that will hinder the water from doing much of anything (good). all in all this might slow down the exiting water quite some...

another point about the pipes. get them to dip as much into the cup as you dare. the ideal distance between cup-button and pipe-bottom should be somewhere around 1mm - so if you're cup is 4mm deep, make sure the pipe reaches about ~3mm into the cup.

the next thing is the strength (width?) of the remaining baseplate below a cup. the thinner, the better - but that might make room for mess-up since if to thin, the baseplate might be deformed when trying to mount it. so i'd advise you to stick with 1mm.
- what i'm working on so far is - if that can be machined by friends of mine - about 0.6-0.8 mm below the centermost cups and up to 1mm of those around that (with pipes that follow suit).
- this of course can only be done with a cnc, since you can't drill that exact by hand...

overall baseplate strength is ~5mm

and for pipes.. well try brass pipes.. there's some that have an ID of 0.6 mm and OD of 1.2mm - others are 0.8/1.5mm (ID/OD). those should be perfect. and to fix them you could either try making the plate for the pipes from copper aswell and drill tight holes into it, trying to pull the shrink/fit thing, or you can use your polycarb and superglue the pipes into.. should work aswell

that should do it..
oh.. cup diameter.. hm let's see... assuming you use the 0.8/1.5 brass pipes, you should make the cups ~2.5mm wide..

07-22-2003, 04:33 PM	#23
deepblue Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: germany Posts: 4	@jd first up.. i don't get along with inch and that stuff quite so well, so i'll use metric values instead hm roundbottom cups will surely be much more efficient than any flatbottom cups. you've shown a pretty good example with those little 3ds anims. the hemisphere will guide the water easily along the walls out of the cup whereas the flat bottom will cause massive turbulences that will hinder the water from doing much of anything (good). all in all this might slow down the exiting water quite some... another point about the pipes. get them to dip as much into the cup as you dare. the ideal distance between cup-button and pipe-bottom should be somewhere around 1mm - so if you're cup is 4mm deep, make sure the pipe reaches about ~3mm into the cup. the next thing is the strength (width?) of the remaining baseplate below a cup. the thinner, the better - but that might make room for mess-up since if to thin, the baseplate might be deformed when trying to mount it. so i'd advise you to stick with 1mm. - what i'm working on so far is - if that can be machined by friends of mine - about 0.6-0.8 mm below the centermost cups and up to 1mm of those around that (with pipes that follow suit). - this of course can only be done with a cnc, since you can't drill that exact by hand... overall baseplate strength is ~5mm and for pipes.. well try brass pipes.. there's some that have an ID of 0.6 mm and OD of 1.2mm - others are 0.8/1.5mm (ID/OD). those should be perfect. and to fix them you could either try making the plate for the pipes from copper aswell and drill tight holes into it, trying to pull the shrink/fit thing, or you can use your polycarb and superglue the pipes into.. should work aswell that should do it.. oh.. cup diameter.. hm let's see... assuming you use the 0.8/1.5 brass pipes, you should make the cups ~2.5mm wide.. __________________ ...deepblue sky^surprise! productions Last edited by deepblue; 07-22-2003 at 04:48 PM.