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cristoff · 09-24-2003, 02:21 PM

I've always kinda figured it this way....

(Just side thoughts. IF you stick your hand in the water and take it out quickly it might get a little colder and then get warmer again...
IF you stick you hand in the water and keep it there it might get colder but then after a while if the water is cold enough to overcome your warmth your hand will freeze, if not your hand will warm the water around it, by very little mind you.
IF you stick your and in the water and take it out quickly, and do so repeatedly, your hand will become cold if the water is cold enough to regenerate its "coldness" in that area, if not, your hand will become cool and overcome the coldness there and exhange it with heat... )

The problem is for each is that you have energy that is constantly replenishing itself... Therefore you must think of the exchanging as constant.

Becuase copper itself has a rate of exchange, the amount of exhange taken place will be affected by the design of the block and how much of the copper is in contact with the water and the chip. For the water has a rate of exchange as well, the amount of exchange determined by the flow and impingement.

Many people think of the water since its cold will cool the copper down, which in actuallity is sorta true. The water in which its being cold is drawing the heat away from the copper at a certain rate of exchange. Many people think of the copper as being warm and warming the water... Either way the water needs to get away from the copper... but it also needs to contact as much of the copper as possible. But the myth is that the water "needs" to stay in there to take the heat away for X amount of time in order to pull the heat away or cool the copper down. It doesnt need to although it might help, the water will just impinge the colder water coming in to exhange heat with the copper and thus make that water warm as well...

IN all actuallity, for me at least and my theories, is that the faster the flow and the least impingement, but the most contact with copper is the best idea. You need to have water block inside the same volume as a hose the same length....
IF you have more volume inside, then you have dead spots and spots that just take more heat.... but dont exit to give time for the other water entering to take its place....

Although all of this can be calculated to create pretty much the perfect water block....

I believe at least that a very thin base, with fins inside very much like a HS, with an inside volume the same as the tube the same length, with the fins over the whole chip only, will create almost the best environment for the chip to become cool...

How much wattage do the chips produce? I am trying to build a pelt system soon...

09-24-2003, 02:21 PM	#64
cristoff Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mass Posts: 185	I've always kinda figured it this way.... (Just side thoughts. IF you stick your hand in the water and take it out quickly it might get a little colder and then get warmer again... IF you stick you hand in the water and keep it there it might get colder but then after a while if the water is cold enough to overcome your warmth your hand will freeze, if not your hand will warm the water around it, by very little mind you. IF you stick your and in the water and take it out quickly, and do so repeatedly, your hand will become cold if the water is cold enough to regenerate its "coldness" in that area, if not, your hand will become cool and overcome the coldness there and exhange it with heat... ) The problem is for each is that you have energy that is constantly replenishing itself... Therefore you must think of the exchanging as constant. Becuase copper itself has a rate of exchange, the amount of exhange taken place will be affected by the design of the block and how much of the copper is in contact with the water and the chip. For the water has a rate of exchange as well, the amount of exchange determined by the flow and impingement. Many people think of the water since its cold will cool the copper down, which in actuallity is sorta true. The water in which its being cold is drawing the heat away from the copper at a certain rate of exchange. Many people think of the copper as being warm and warming the water... Either way the water needs to get away from the copper... but it also needs to contact as much of the copper as possible. But the myth is that the water "needs" to stay in there to take the heat away for X amount of time in order to pull the heat away or cool the copper down. It doesnt need to although it might help, the water will just impinge the colder water coming in to exhange heat with the copper and thus make that water warm as well... IN all actuallity, for me at least and my theories, is that the faster the flow and the least impingement, but the most contact with copper is the best idea. You need to have water block inside the same volume as a hose the same length.... IF you have more volume inside, then you have dead spots and spots that just take more heat.... but dont exit to give time for the other water entering to take its place.... Although all of this can be calculated to create pretty much the perfect water block.... I believe at least that a very thin base, with fins inside very much like a HS, with an inside volume the same as the tube the same length, with the fins over the whole chip only, will create almost the best environment for the chip to become cool... How much wattage do the chips produce? I am trying to build a pelt system soon... __________________ fr33t3chi3