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Unread 11-18-2003, 01:19 PM   #33
jaydee
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 6,506
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pears0
could do, instead of using a copper top i could use polycard or plexi, depending on price, if both free polycarb. Dunno bout th holes in the top, but i have no idea how to solder or the equipment, so unless i can find some 1 to do that, thought with a UV die in the water, i think it would look cool with a clear top. any ideas bout over comming the need for holes in the top? I know y they are needed, but would puttin my layer 2 from the design b4 on with slightly bigger channels do the same job, any 1?
No need to for holes in the top. Just make the base about 1/2" thick. Also don't solder the top on. Use 4 bolts and use RTV silicone to seal it if you can't make an O-ring groove. Use Poly if possible, if not use 3/8" or 1/2" Plexi for the top. Check my lemon Block Cu thread out here: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=7424

it is of the same concept but milled instead of drilled. That block works very well. I got it at 4C over the maze 4 which would put it up there with the best commercial blocks. I got a revision of this in the works that should increas performance some. Also check out my King Pin block here: http://www.customcomp.us/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3
I am testing this block now. So far it is doing very well also.
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