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Unread 12-04-2003, 12:14 PM   #13
BladeRunner
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chesterfield Uk
Posts: 459
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As bigben2k says it's worth considering the short out factors. I didn't actually glue anything, being concerned about short out I used a mica shim....... I'm not a great lover of gluing anything if it can be avoided, although I had to give in and glue my mobo powerfet block & southbridge sink on as I couldn't see any other realistic options :shrug:

from the Psu build update on my site.......

Quote:
"This copper bracket was attached to the waterblock via some screws with artic silver II paste, as a thermal interface. The other end of the bracket rests on the top of the coil with a thermal mica shim to prevent any electrical connection between the earthed water-block and coil, to ensure good contact a cable tie is also used around the coil and bracket. This simple, but admittedly agricultural solution has resulted in a max coil temp of around 43C to 45C. (55C when the high summer ambient was nearer to 40C)."


I also considered using the ceramic top and bottom from a small TEC to sandwich the hot PSU coil, but it was a little to buried by other components to do this easily.

I can't speak for all mobos, but on the NF7-S 2.0 I'm using the coils tend to be heated more by the fets heat, and the general heat soak of the whole area of the pcb. I found the caps around the fets actually got hotter when I tried this sink, and it did little to help the fets, (in a zero airflow system)



The sink solution failed to solve the heat issue to my satisfaction, but a simple water-block seems to work just fine not only cooling the fets, but preventing heat soak from them in effecting the area and all the other associated components.

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Last edited by BladeRunner; 06-01-2004 at 04:15 AM.
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