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Unread 12-15-2003, 07:09 PM   #25
ZapWizard
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally posted by BladeRunner
Bonding, gluing, smeging the lid on is not something I'd not favour.

As far as the bolts go I have a box of 100 of M2 think they are 20mm long
I think I will make a copper lid, and have it ready to solder.
But first I will try some silicon as refered to in this post:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6918
(Granted it will take some extra screws for each side)

I may contact you about the bolts, but more then likely I will have to change over to a different type. Would it hurt too much to simply use long threaded rods, washers, and nuts to hold it together? No need to tap.

Quote:
Originally posted by JFettig
Here is my suggestion, make the back side thinner and smaller, only as large as you need
Since this will be visible from both sides. (Rather then just the backside) I want to keep it symetrical for looks.

I guess I can probably remove even more copper.
How thin can it be before I start risking strength?

I don't plan on selling these, this if for my next project.


/Edit:
I found a good website with holes sizes for a bunch of Cap screws.
http://www.evergreen.edu/biophysics/...c/capscrew.htm

So now I have holes counterset for M2.5 set screws.
But I will need 3mm screws for this waterblock.

Two new shots showing the cap screws.



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Last edited by ZapWizard; 12-15-2003 at 09:13 PM.
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