Yeah I see..... a lot of things are relative to our different planet locations I guess, it doesn't tend to get as hot here 35C being pretty much a rare summer high, with mid to high 20C to low 30C more of a norm, (although I've seen almost 40C inside a mobile home at one point), that was horrid btw
. Although the coolant will be cool it's nowhere near a/c cooling temps so I doubt the wetness will be as much of an issue, (around 8C to 10C is the ground temp after around 8ft down), I don't see it going any lower than that.
I think you summed it all up well with this statement however...
"Again, the system will only work if the convection currents formed are sufficient to move enough air through the system. I mean, the chimney must be able to drag enough air through the rad (and the case). Which is not that easy because the cold air is heavier."
That is the real key and no amount of educated guessing or calculations will fully tell us exactly how well its going to work......other than doing it, may be a flop but I can take failure
Another thing is real fires have good draft effect in chimneys, but they are also burning with much hotter temps and the fire is using, (consuming), oxygen from the surrounding air, causing a greater drafting effect.
Most of the time I was fighting the borders of condensation, not a major bath time so it will most likely help.
what made me mostly think you weren't with me was this statement mainly:-
"Or, you could just heat up the interior of the case. Less hassle. But it would probably affect the effectiveness of the cooling loop"
Wasn't understanding that as that would have lead to a swimming pool condensation situation ??
Oh and if I burnt myself on the hot chimney It would be the first and last time...... perhaps I should have "numbskull" embossed backwards on the chimney
lastly if it worked a condensation detector on the psu block linked to the hardware shutoff maybe another wise precaution, for the odd time the humidity was very very high?