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Ewout_vB:
I'm not stupid, thats with SH...
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Alot of people get burned on S&H costs though, so I thought it was important to mention. Glad to hear that you're keeping them in mind.
[/quote] Hmm Although it would reduce some of the sound it does take too much room, sucking through and pushing through should perform the same if you put the fans on right...[/quote]
It isn't an intuitive thing, but air will flow faster through an obstruction (like a rad) in order to fill a vacuum than it will to get out of a high pressure zone. In addition, airflow is driven by pressure differential, an axial fan will create a greater pressure differential trying to pull a vacuum (sucking) than trying to generate pressure (blowing). Thus the same fan will move more CFM of air volume when it 'sucks' than when it 'blows'. This is both per BillA's testing, and also some of the fan mfg website's engineering advice. I don't make up the laws of physics, I just tell you what they say!
Ditto the guide on spacing, 1" (2.5cm) is about the minimum that it takes for air flowing through a rad to recover from the turbulence of going through the rad, it also allows air that flows through any area not directly under the fan blades (such as the hub and any area bigger than the fan size) to move to the blades cleanly. If you have the fan closer, then the fan itself will act to impede the airflow.
Your cooling performance is all about how many CFM you move through the rad, so anything that increases CFM is good, anything that reduces it is bad. Note that the higher the CFM you get at 12V, the greater the potential noise reduction you might be able to get by lowering fan voltage until the CFM produces just enough cooling to be acceptable.
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TiMMieJ:
I also think of making my own WC setup and i really like the design of Jaydee's block. I've got a CNC @ my disposal so i can make a nice block and im planning 2 make a few of those #rotor blocks. Only my question is how thick/thin should the bottom be from the water ? My copper plate is 10mm/1cm and how much should there be left @ the bottom?
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Opinions vary, depending on block design, but typically about 1/8" (3-4mm) is needed to keep the baseplate from distorting under mounting pressure. If you have a design that offers structural support to the center of the block, or does a honeycomb like structure, then you can get away with slightly thinner. The other issue is that you need to have enough material for heat dissipation, a high turbulence block can be thinner, but a low turbulence block (i.e. a simple maze design) needs to be slightly thicker.
The best approach if one is borrowing a design from someone else is to ask what they reccomend for that design. If designing your own, read a bunch of the design threads to get a feel for how to determine the best thickness for yourself.
Gooserider