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mx · 07-22-2006, 11:09 PM

Pump
I don't really understand what you mean with "adapts to 1/2" tubing..."? It works just as good as the D5 with 1/2" tubing and performs even better. However there isn't any test yet that compares the different tops, all we know for certain is that the top inlet increases flow a lot.

Standard top
Non top mounted inlet and small channels. Doesn't take much space has a much lower flow than tops with top mounted inlet.
Radiicals Turbo Head
Top mounted inlet with big inlet and outlet channels, smaller than alphacools top but lacks some of alphacools mounting capabillities. Some belive that this is the best performing top because of the larger channels. However recent tests indicates that a bigger outlet significantly reduces performance so I belive that this top perfoms best with a big inlet barb and a small outlet barb. The test isn't done yet so don't quote me on this! Keep an eye on H2Okoeling.dk where the test will be published when it's done (requires some danish skills).
Alphacools top
Top mounted inlet with small inlet and outlet channels. Boring out the inlet channel to around 10mm does seem to yield better performance, but don't touch the outlet channel you will just get worse performance. I belive that if you enlargen the inlet channel this top performs on par with the Radiical top with big inlet and small outlet barbs.
DIY top inlet mod
The most frequent mod is to just mount a barb on top. This leaves the outlet channel very narrow, which I belive is a good thing! It should perform as good as a Radiical top with big inlet and small outlet or an alphacool top with bored out inlet, of course it depends solely on the modders skills.

So the least effort but most expensive high performance top should be Radiicals top with a big inlet barb and small outlet barb, I suppose something like this would be suitable for outlet barb. 10mm OD should be around <8mm ID which should be about right.
A slightly cheaper top which requires slightly more work would be alphacools top with enlarged inlet channel.
The cheapest alternative is to modify the original top but this also requires some work.

Tubing
It sounds like you're going to use 1/2" ID tubing? 7/16" ID is actually the least restrictive ID with G1/4 barbs because of the less turbulent transition between tube and barb. The maximum ID of a G1/4 barb is around 10mm, combined with 1/2" (12.7mm) tubing the transition becomes kinda turbulent and hence more restrictive. 7/16" ID tubing has an ID of 11.1mm which means less restriction. Since most blocks, rads and pumps use G1/4 barbs 7/16" ID is usually the best alternative, and because of it's smaller size it's also less prone to kink.

CPU block
Aluminium and copper means corrosion. You can slow the corrosion down by using anodized aluminum and suitable amounts of anti corrosion additives, but it will just postpone the corrosion not prevent it.

You have the option to add insulation (neopren kit) when buying the Maze4-1 and I would also add the brass top. It doesn't seem to come with a TEC but you can buy one of those in the same shop or an even better one from ebay or such. I'm not sure if the insulation kit includes conformal coating and dielectric grease, you should ask them about that. If it doesn't you can buy those at the same store.

Fillport vs Reservoir
Some reservoirs are very restrictive and some are not. I guess a good res is about as restrictive as a bad T-connection. I didn't see any difference in temps when switching from vcore's XL T-connection to alphacools mini tank, but I can't measure flow and my T-ban only has a resolution of 0.5 degrees so there could be a minimal difference. H2Okoeling will do an article on the subject in a not to distand future.

Fans
I love my Yates, good choice! But at 12V they're still a bit too loud for me to sleep in the same room as. That's why everyone should have a good fan controller that varies the speed automatically, like mCubeds T-balancers. The accurate temp sensors are great too.

07-22-2006, 11:09 PM	#4
mx Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sweden Posts: 73	Re: Final Peltier Setup, Suggestions Anyone? Pump I don't really understand what you mean with "adapts to 1/2" tubing..."? It works just as good as the D5 with 1/2" tubing and performs even better. However there isn't any test yet that compares the different tops, all we know for certain is that the top inlet increases flow a lot. Standard top Non top mounted inlet and small channels. Doesn't take much space has a much lower flow than tops with top mounted inlet. Radiicals Turbo Head Top mounted inlet with big inlet and outlet channels, smaller than alphacools top but lacks some of alphacools mounting capabillities. Some belive that this is the best performing top because of the larger channels. However recent tests indicates that a bigger outlet significantly reduces performance so I belive that this top perfoms best with a big inlet barb and a small outlet barb. The test isn't done yet so don't quote me on this! Keep an eye on H2Okoeling.dk where the test will be published when it's done (requires some danish skills). Alphacools top Top mounted inlet with small inlet and outlet channels. Boring out the inlet channel to around 10mm does seem to yield better performance, but don't touch the outlet channel you will just get worse performance. I belive that if you enlargen the inlet channel this top performs on par with the Radiical top with big inlet and small outlet barbs. DIY top inlet mod The most frequent mod is to just mount a barb on top. This leaves the outlet channel very narrow, which I belive is a good thing! It should perform as good as a Radiical top with big inlet and small outlet or an alphacool top with bored out inlet, of course it depends solely on the modders skills. So the least effort but most expensive high performance top should be Radiicals top with a big inlet barb and small outlet barb, I suppose something like this would be suitable for outlet barb. 10mm OD should be around <8mm ID which should be about right. A slightly cheaper top which requires slightly more work would be alphacools top with enlarged inlet channel. The cheapest alternative is to modify the original top but this also requires some work. Tubing It sounds like you're going to use 1/2" ID tubing? 7/16" ID is actually the least restrictive ID with G1/4 barbs because of the less turbulent transition between tube and barb. The maximum ID of a G1/4 barb is around 10mm, combined with 1/2" (12.7mm) tubing the transition becomes kinda turbulent and hence more restrictive. 7/16" ID tubing has an ID of 11.1mm which means less restriction. Since most blocks, rads and pumps use G1/4 barbs 7/16" ID is usually the best alternative, and because of it's smaller size it's also less prone to kink. CPU block Aluminium and copper means corrosion. You can slow the corrosion down by using anodized aluminum and suitable amounts of anti corrosion additives, but it will just postpone the corrosion not prevent it. You have the option to add insulation (neopren kit) when buying the Maze4-1 and I would also add the brass top. It doesn't seem to come with a TEC but you can buy one of those in the same shop or an even better one from ebay or such. I'm not sure if the insulation kit includes conformal coating and dielectric grease, you should ask them about that. If it doesn't you can buy those at the same store. Fillport vs Reservoir Some reservoirs are very restrictive and some are not. I guess a good res is about as restrictive as a bad T-connection. I didn't see any difference in temps when switching from vcore's XL T-connection to alphacools mini tank, but I can't measure flow and my T-ban only has a resolution of 0.5 degrees so there could be a minimal difference. H2Okoeling will do an article on the subject in a not to distand future. Fans I love my Yates, good choice! But at 12V they're still a bit too loud for me to sleep in the same room as. That's why everyone should have a good fan controller that varies the speed automatically, like mCubeds T-balancers. The accurate temp sensors are great too.