New heatercore: Best way to put on barbs?

eXacto · 08-12-2004, 05:13 PM

I just got a 2-342 and the pipes coming off it are huge, so after cutting them down I will need to put barbs on it. The openings are 1/2 and 5/8 ID, are barbs made that will fit ID that big, but convert down to 3/8 ID that the rest of my loop uses? (correct my if I'm wrong but I have swiftech MCW5000P CPU and MCW50 GPU blocks and both have 3/8 ID [1/2 OD] in/outs that are impossible to make bigger without drilling open the metal holes inside)

My last core was a disaster because even though I followed the correct techniques and used epoxies made for metal, they peeled off and cause leakage. I don't know if soldering is feasible since I haven't the tools or experience needed to do it.

quicksilverXP · 08-12-2004, 05:37 PM

You need to solder it man.... it's not as hard as you think. You can purchase a propane tank at Ace Hardware for like 10 bucks and solder and flux for about 5 dollars (make sure its the plumber's type). There are plenty of soldering guides for heatercores on different forums. The strongest seal is a threaded hole along with soldering.

greenman100 · 08-12-2004, 05:58 PM

I have a 2-342, just heated up my 1/2"ID clearflex and shoved it over the shortened pipes

works well, no barbs babeh

eXacto · 08-12-2004, 06:14 PM

1/2 ID tubing is a lot bigger than my 3/8

greenman100 · 08-12-2004, 06:37 PM

then solder or JB weld some barbs on there

bigben2k · 08-12-2004, 07:43 PM

...or use a reducer fitting (if you can find one), with a short section of 1/2 tubing.

I used a grinding wheel adapter to make one.

Colt357tw · 08-12-2004, 09:58 PM

Earl's Blue Anodized Aluminum AN10 fittings baby!

$7 USD per....let see, 2 for rad, 2 for pumps, 2 for CPU WB, 2 for GPU WB, 2 for each HDD WB *4 = 2+2+2+2+8=16
$102 just for fittings? I need to get another job

Mars · 08-12-2004, 10:08 PM

Those blue fittings look nice but you can't solder aluminum to copper. You can try to the cows come home, but the properties do not relate. My suggestion for the barbs is to solder it on to the tanks of the heatercore. If you don't have the skill to do it, than take it to a radiator shop. They'll do it in 5 mins. If you want to try it yourself, than get 50/50 solder (kester aquabond), and flux. Don't get the paste crap. It's useless. Get the kester liquid flux, with a brush to apply it. I solder all my connections on my waterblock, radiator, T-fitting etc. It's the leak proof way.

eXacto · 08-12-2004, 11:02 PM

Maybe I'll try to find a local place that can do it for me. Any idea how much it will cost, and what kinds of shops will do the work? I live in a fairly small town.

RedPhoenix · 08-12-2004, 11:51 PM

JB Weld also works.

Mars · 08-13-2004, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eXacto

Maybe I'll try to find a local place that can do it for me. Any idea how much it will cost, and what kinds of shops will do the work? I live in a fairly small town.

You can try with a plumber, or an automotive shop, or a radiator shop. They'll probably charge you $20.00.

JamesAvery22 · 08-13-2004, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedPhoenix

JB Weld also works.

Ive used JBWeld to attach bolts to the side of a case once but never on anything that would stay wet. That doesnt effect it at all? I hope not as thats what I plan on using...

Bio-Hazard · 08-13-2004, 06:28 PM

This is the easiest way to mod your heater core to use different sized barbs any time you want. They can be found at most hardware stores in the plumbing department, but need to be soldered on, not a big deal though. The fitting cost about $1.00 each. Well worth the money...............

Kobuchi · 08-14-2004, 12:22 AM

Smart, Bio-Hazard.

The most direct solution to your problem, eXacto, is to change the existing tube O.D. If you have a tube cutter, try replacing the cutting disk with a blunt steel washer (will have to dig for the right one). You now have a tube crimper. With this you can scrinch the tube down - barring heat treatment, how much depends on the alloy, wall thickness, and care you take in doing it. Forming a soft barb pattern this way is easy. But practice on scrap pipe first, and don't even try it if your radiator pipes are too short for mishap.

Does anyone else know of ways to flare or crimp tube?

bobkoure · 08-14-2004, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kobuchi

Does anyone else know of ways to flare or crimp tube?

Sure. There's a tool called a "beader" which, erm... puts a bead on tubing. They're pretty expensive, so I don't own even one. I know a radiator shop (not too far from a place where I used to work - now 40 mins out of my way

) that has a set (different ones for different diameter tubing) and is willing to "bead" tubing for me. Haven't taken advantage of the offer yet, so don't know how well this'd work on tubes already soldered into header tanks, how much side clearance needed, etc. ...

Then, there's something called a "flaring tool", which does just that. I have some for automotive brake lines, aircraft oil lines, and hydraulic equipment. The interesting thing about the automotive/aircraft is that, although some of the diameters are exactly the same, the flare angle is not - and fittings for the one will not work properly with the other.

There are sheet metal tools for crimping a sheet metal pipe (like stove pipe) but I've never seen one for tubing. I would guess that something like you describe would work. In theory something like a reverse flaring tool might do what you want - but I wonder how you'd get the inner form out afterwards.

Kobuchi · 08-14-2004, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobkoure

I would guess that something like you describe would work.

It leaves bands though. I'm planning to make a thick, bevelled wheel (again for use in a tube cutter) for forming true sharp barbs.

***

Google "beading tool" and all I get are a few lathe tools, plus a raft of prepubescent jewelry. Can you describe it?

bobkoure · 08-14-2004, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kobuchi

Google "beading tool" and all I get are a few lathe tools, plus a raft of prepubescent jewelry. Can you describe it?

I was thinking about the Parker beading tool - these work really well but cost more $$ than I want to spend. Radiator shop has 'em.

Here's one for about half the price of the Parker that should do the job.

And here's a beading tool that I've never seen before - is for aluminum not copper, but lots cheaper than either above.

No idea how well this one would work on copper (or on aluminum for that matter - haven't ever seen one "in person").

Mars · 08-14-2004, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobkoure

Sure. There's a tool called a "beader" which, erm... puts a bead on tubing. They're pretty expensive, so I don't own even one. I know a radiator shop (not too far from a place where I used to work - now 40 mins out of my way

) that has a set (different ones for different diameter tubing) and is willing to "bead" tubing for me. Haven't taken advantage of the offer yet, so don't know how well this'd work on tubes already soldered into header tanks, how much side clearance needed, etc. ...

Then, there's something called a "flaring tool", which does just that. I have some for automotive brake lines, aircraft oil lines, and hydraulic equipment. The interesting thing about the automotive/aircraft is that, although some of the diameters are exactly the same, the flare angle is not - and fittings for the one will not work properly with the other.

There are sheet metal tools for crimping a sheet metal pipe (like stove pipe) but I've never seen one for tubing. I would guess that something like you describe would work. In theory something like a reverse flaring tool might do what you want - but I wonder how you'd get the inner form out afterwards.

What I used is a a flaring tool. When you put the pipe in the clamp and insert the proper flare insert, then mount the other clamp on, don't turn the clamp all the way down. Just a 1/4 of the way. This will leave a small bulge at the end of the pipe.
As per the picture below.

Hellion_Prime · 08-15-2004, 02:14 PM

Soldering would be the easiest way to do this, honestly. I've done it to two different radiators. Its quite easy. Here's how mine turned out:

The first one didnt turn out looking so well. I think I overdid the application of the flux. But for a first attempt, it aint bad. Works fine.

mechsiah · 08-15-2004, 07:56 PM

Hellion-

Is that rad the Dodge Van? 9.5x9.5 or somesuch? I have been trying to discover if it is brass/copper or not- but I think I have my answer...

I think I've got it down as Transpro 399126. Any chance you can confirm?

Thanks!

Mechsiah

08-12-2004, 05:13 PM	#1
eXacto Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Francisco Posts: 24	New heatercore: Best way to put on barbs? I just got a 2-342 and the pipes coming off it are huge, so after cutting them down I will need to put barbs on it. The openings are 1/2 and 5/8 ID, are barbs made that will fit ID that big, but convert down to 3/8 ID that the rest of my loop uses? (correct my if I'm wrong but I have swiftech MCW5000P CPU and MCW50 GPU blocks and both have 3/8 ID [1/2 OD] in/outs that are impossible to make bigger without drilling open the metal holes inside) My last core was a disaster because even though I followed the correct techniques and used epoxies made for metal, they peeled off and cause leakage. I don't know if soldering is feasible since I haven't the tools or experience needed to do it.

08-12-2004, 05:58 PM	#3
greenman100 Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Florida Posts: 414	I have a 2-342, just heated up my 1/2"ID clearflex and shoved it over the shortened pipes works well, no barbs babeh __________________ "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for." --Socrates "greenman100 = obnoxious ass hole"-gazorp

08-12-2004, 06:37 PM	#5
greenman100 Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Florida Posts: 414	then solder or JB weld some barbs on there __________________ "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for." --Socrates "greenman100 = obnoxious ass hole"-gazorp

08-12-2004, 07:43 PM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	...or use a reducer fitting (if you can find one), with a short section of 1/2 tubing. I used a grinding wheel adapter to make one. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

08-12-2004, 10:08 PM	#8
Mars Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Brampton, Ontario Posts: 108	Those blue fittings look nice but you can't solder aluminum to copper. You can try to the cows come home, but the properties do not relate. My suggestion for the barbs is to solder it on to the tanks of the heatercore. If you don't have the skill to do it, than take it to a radiator shop. They'll do it in 5 mins. If you want to try it yourself, than get 50/50 solder (kester aquabond), and flux. Don't get the paste crap. It's useless. Get the kester liquid flux, with a brush to apply it. I solder all my connections on my waterblock, radiator, T-fitting etc. It's the leak proof way. __________________ The Rage is Relentless

08-12-2004, 05:37 PM	#2
quicksilverXP Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Irvine Posts: 58	You need to solder it man.... it's not as hard as you think. You can purchase a propane tank at Ace Hardware for like 10 bucks and solder and flux for about 5 dollars (make sure its the plumber's type). There are plenty of soldering guides for heatercores on different forums. The strongest seal is a threaded hole along with soldering.

08-12-2004, 06:14 PM	#4
eXacto Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Francisco Posts: 24	1/2 ID tubing is a lot bigger than my 3/8

08-12-2004, 09:58 PM	#7
Colt357tw Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Taiwan Posts: 55	Earl's Blue Anodized Aluminum AN10 fittings baby! $7 USD per....let see, 2 for rad, 2 for pumps, 2 for CPU WB, 2 for GPU WB, 2 for each HDD WB *4 = 2+2+2+2+8=16 $102 just for fittings? I need to get another job

08-12-2004, 11:02 PM	#9
eXacto Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Francisco Posts: 24	Maybe I'll try to find a local place that can do it for me. Any idea how much it will cost, and what kinds of shops will do the work? I live in a fairly small town.

08-12-2004, 11:51 PM	#10
RedPhoenix Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 266	JB Weld also works. __________________ rawr www.mysoarer.com

08-13-2004, 06:28 PM	#13
Bio-Hazard Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Back Woods of MO Posts: 49	This is the easiest way to mod your heater core to use different sized barbs any time you want. They can be found at most hardware stores in the plumbing department, but need to be soldered on, not a big deal though. The fitting cost about $1.00 each. Well worth the money...............

08-14-2004, 12:22 AM	#14
Kobuchi Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: BC, Canada Posts: 313	Smart, Bio-Hazard. The most direct solution to your problem, eXacto, is to change the existing tube O.D. If you have a tube cutter, try replacing the cutting disk with a blunt steel washer (will have to dig for the right one). You now have a tube crimper. With this you can scrinch the tube down - barring heat treatment, how much depends on the alloy, wall thickness, and care you take in doing it. Forming a soft barb pattern this way is easy. But practice on scrap pipe first, and don't even try it if your radiator pipes are too short for mishap. Does anyone else know of ways to flare or crimp tube?

08-15-2004, 02:14 PM	#19
Hellion_Prime Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Arlington, MA, US Posts: 90	Soldering would be the easiest way to do this, honestly. I've done it to two different radiators. Its quite easy. Here's how mine turned out: The first one didnt turn out looking so well. I think I overdid the application of the flux. But for a first attempt, it aint bad. Works fine. __________________ That which does not kill me had BETTER do enough damage to keep me from firing back!

08-15-2004, 07:56 PM	#20
mechsiah Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: seattle Posts: 3	Hellion- Is that rad the Dodge Van? 9.5x9.5 or somesuch? I have been trying to discover if it is brass/copper or not- but I think I have my answer... I think I've got it down as Transpro 399126. Any chance you can confirm? Thanks! Mechsiah

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