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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: UK
Posts: 55
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Time to make my own case. Its cheaper |
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#2 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 12
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Is that just a single spiral?? I don't think that would produce any added benefits over something like the Maze2 block because you are reducing the amount of water in contact with the bottom of the block in the area of the CPU. A spiral obviously must ascend to be able to clear itself as it passes by again, so you are moving the water away from the true source of heat. Sure, copper is conductive, but the majority of the heat is produced at the center of the bottom of the block.
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would you like coleslaw with that? |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 18
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The water would flow right out actually spending enough time in the block to absorb heat. That's why the 'maze' blocks work so well. The longer you keep something in the fire, the hotter it will be when you take it out.
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 231
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But in the same way it will be harder to cool the watter back off... this is starting to sound like a high/low flowrate discussion again...
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#5 | |
Thermophile
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az
Posts: 1,264
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Remember a watercooled system is a system. A better waterblock does not increase the total energy (heat) going into the system, so it cannot effect the total amount of heat that is removed from it. Therefore a better water block should have little to no efect on coolant temps (assuming flowrate is unchanged). |
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 40
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Personally, I think its a good design. The fact that the water comes in right on top of the core is good, will take off heat well. the curved arm will make sure the water flows all the way around making maximum surface contact. Very sound design. I have seen this done before, but with a round cap and there was a washer that spun, it had little bits of a straw stuck in it. Please tell me how it turns out.
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 40
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Also, if it were possible, etch a spirl design in the bottom of the well, from the center out, and continue it up the sides, this will greatly increase surface area. you can do that or add small copper tacks randomly. either will increase surface area greatly. make sure the out pipe is flush with the sides of the well, don't make it stick into the well.
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#8 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: atlanta
Posts: 9
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great idea... take a look at this link from [h]ardocp about someone who is already selling a spirial block....
spriral block i have read previous posts about this when he was developing the prototype. they seem to be working real well.
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if its dead and edible i can cook it!! |
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#9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 40
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no, i meant for him to keep the design he has now, but on the bottom and side walls etch a spiral or some sort of design to increase surface area. the forced water idea is great, but in a spiral like that i just don't think it has enough surface area to take heat from, so i say stick with the chamber and just gouge a design into the walls , maybe place copper or Al(depends on what its made from) tacks on the chamber bottom with the pins facing up, that would allow more motion of the water and a lot more surface area.
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