A REALLY powerful watercooling pump.

[Cieprus]

Well I decided I wanted a partially submersible pump. So i got one from a maker called 'Wayne'

Its a 900 or so GPH pump, Its to big to be put inside the computer, but this is my preference.

Im just worried that since the pump isnt really going to be able to push anywhere near 900 GPH through my system (using 1/2 everything) Will my pump get damaged? I know heat is a problem, but Ill take care of that.

Can I downvolt a 120V pump? Maybe using a 120V wall Dim switch?

Well thanks alot guys!

Oh ya!

I just got the Maze3 & the GF3 cooler waterblocks.

[Cyco-Dude]

'downvolt' an AC pump? i dont think id try it...
make sure you use some good hose clamps on all barbs; you dont want a hose popping off.

[UnaClocker]

I almost want to send you a 150gph pump, so you can swap between the two, and see that you'll get lower temps with the 150gph. I think 900gph is a bad idea, mostly due to the extreme excess heat being added to the water. And if I remember right, 900gph pumps draw around 250watts under load, and it WILL be under load going through your small hoses and such.

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by Cyco-Dude
'downvolt' an AC pump? i dont think id try it...
make sure you use some good hose clamps on all barbs; you dont want a hose popping off.

Yea I have the metal screw tight clamps...Ugly, But very strong.

Would it be just like haveing a Oscilating (Spelling?) Fan, With a DIM switch to control the speed?

Well I think Ill be careful And give it a shot. Ill keep you posted.

Thanks alot Cyco-Dude!

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by UnaClocker
I almost want to send you a 150gph pump, so you can swap between the two, and see that you'll get lower temps with the 150gph. I think 900gph is a bad idea, mostly due to the extreme excess heat being added to the water. And if I remember right, 900gph pumps draw around 250watts under load, and it WILL be under load going through your small hoses and such.

Well I can always buy a lower GPH somewhere.

First off. If, when the watercooler is complete, there is alot of pressure, then there will be alot of heat from the pump.

But, If I can downvolt it to around 150 GPH, then there will be no more heat, Thats why I was thinking about downvolting it.

Second. 250 watts Is only 2 amps from a 120V socket. Which isnt a concern. And im sure its not anywhere near 250 watts.

If it was from my PSU, and I was using this pump, then you can Una-Bomb my ass cause Id be one dumb phocker.

Thanks man!

[WireX]

To the best of my knowledge, DO NOT UNDERVOLT ac things unless they are made fore it, they will just fry.

-WireX

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by WireX
To the best of my knowledge, DO NOT UNDERVOLT ac things unless they are made fore it, they will just fry.

-WireX

I doubt this pump will fry, its a 1/6 HP industrial pump.

[Volenti]

Don't use a light dimmer, they chop up the wave form too much, the pump will stall (tried it) you need to use a fan control designed for inductive loads.

[Volenti]

I doubt this pump will fry, its a 1/6 HP industrial pump.

yea I second that, the only problem I can see is running the pump at a slower speed is that most pumps like that have a built in fan that runs directly off the drive shaft. With the pump running slow the fan won't be pushing much air, but that is something that can be worked around pretty easily.

To slow down the pump all you have to do is go to a retailer that sells light fittings/wall switches ect for the home and ask for an "electronic variable speed fan control switch" ,ceiling fans use a similar wattage as that pump, so power handling shouldn't be a problem, just hook it up per the instructions that come with it.

Just don't tell them that you intend to do it your self, since playing with mains wiring is normally illegal unless your a licenced electrican.

[UnaClocker]

Originally posted by Volenti
Just don't tell them that you intend to do it your self, since playing with mains wiring is normally illegal unless your a licenced electrican.

It's not illegal in the US.

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by Volenti
Don't use a light dimmer, they chop up the wave form too much, the pump will stall (tried it) you need to use a fan control designed for inductive loads.

Ahhh, very good to know.

So Ill use a fan dimmer switch, this will work good.

Ya I think im going to add some fans to my huge reservoir, Or add some fans w/ filters to the pump itself.

Do you have any pics of your project?

Thanks alot man!

[Brad]

it'd be fun to see if you had 1" tubing, and a block designed for it, but otherwise you're just wasting your time with that

[UnaClocker]

Originally posted by Brad
it'd be fun to see if you had 1" tubing, and a block designed for it, but otherwise you're just wasting your time with that

Remember that block Xjinn made? That'd work well with it.. put 3 1/2" barbs on each side of his block, and then the 20ish 1/8" passages through the block.. Mmm, yes indeed...

[Brad]

instead of having one barb at either end, just have 2 barbs at either end, that'd give you much more volume, and flow rate.

then maybe another one in the middle at either end to get the 3x 1/2" inlets and 3x 1/2" outlets you mentioned.

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by Brad
it'd be fun to see if you had 1" tubing, and a block designed for it, but otherwise you're just wasting your time with that

I doubt its a waste of time, Knowledge is power.

So What if I did this... (Pic)

Ill have the pump distribute cooled water to the CPU and GPU at the same time, then the blocks willl distribute the hot water to the radiator.

Good Idea???

[Brad]

thats just running the blocks in parrallel, nothing too special there

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by Brad
thats just running the blocks in parrallel, nothing too special there

Ya but in my case...With such a powerful pump. Would it be a better idea?

[Brad]

I'd try getting jaydee to make a custom block designed for 1" tubing, with a 3/8" line for the gpu

[JimS]

I run my two blocks in parallel almost exactly as your diagram shows. My Danner 500 gph pump is more than enough for the job. My loop also includes a chiller block as well as the two water blocks and I still have more than adequate flow. 900 gph is way too much.

I have run my 250 gph pump on the cold side(loop described above) and it provides enough flow, but barely.

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by JimS
I run my two blocks in parallel almost exactly as your diagram shows. My Danner 500 gph pump is more than enough for the job. My loop also includes a chiller block as well as the two water blocks and I still have more than adequate flow. 900 gph is way too much.

I have run my 250 gph pump on the cold side(loop described above) and it provides enough flow, but barely.

Hmm...I guess im going to have to try and use a dimmer switch.

I'd try getting jaydee to make a custom block designed for 1" tubing,

He would be the coolest guy ever if he did that!

[bigben2k]

This has to be the worse thread I have ever seen...

1-running a 900GPH pump is not better, in fact, it's more likely to be worse, far worse...

1A- You will put a tremendous pressure in your system, and you'll be running like a headless chicken plugging leaks everywhere.

1B- There is too much flow resistance for your pump to operate at maximum capacity, and it will most certainly overheat.

2- A faster flow rate does not mean that you will get better cooling, in fact (as UnaClocker will testify) it might run worse.

The coolant needs to be in the radiator for some time, in order for it to transmit its heat out of it.


So any way you look at it, it's a bad idea. That being said...


3- You can try to undervolt a pump, but it may not work. A dimmer will not work, it is only designed to clip the top of an AC sinewave, which works very well for light bulbs, but very poorly for variable load items, like a pump. (i.e. the pump draws lots more current at the top of the sine wave). I've used a dimmer on an AC motor before (a small fan) and it works, but you can tell just from the noise it makes, that it's already struggling...

3A- Some pumps, mostly industrial types, are designed to run at the top of their specified voltage range. Running under that voltage may have a number of unpredictable results, up to, and including, the pump not moving any water whatsoever.

The easiest way to drop the voltage, would be to slap a big resistor between the AC outlet and the pump. The problem is that it would have to be rated for at least 250W, and I can tell you right now, you're not likely to find one, never mind being able to fit it anywhere...

So if you really want to try it, then go right ahead: we're all waiting anxiously to see the results...

[ECUPirate]

heh. I've got the 1250, which I run 24/7. When I turn off my PC (and thus, my rad fans), the pump heats the water up A LOT. My CPU temps run about 12-14C higher when I first boot up. The fans quickly cool the water back down. When just the pump is running, the rad is very warm to the touch. This pump puts off about 28 watts (I think), and vibrates and makes more noise than a smaller pump would. (Albeit, not much noise anyway). I wonder if the 1048 wouldn't have been a better idea.
If you put 900 GPH in your system, you're asking for trouble. I you turn your fans off and not the pump, your water temps are going to get very high. When you start up you PC, the CPU temps will likely go through the roof. I don't know how high, or if damage will occur, but I wouldn't want to find out.

... I trust you'll be running an extra rad or two to cool dissipate the extra heat the pump is generating???

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by bigben2k
This has to be the worse thread I have ever seen...

1-running a 900GPH pump is not better, in fact, it's more likely to be worse, far worse...

1A- You will put a tremendous pressure in your system, and you'll be running like a headless chicken plugging leaks everywhere.

1B- There is too much flow resistance for your pump to operate at maximum capacity, and it will most certainly overheat.

2- A faster flow rate does not mean that you will get better cooling, in fact (as UnaClocker will testify) it might run worse.

The coolant needs to be in the radiator for some time, in order for it to transmit its heat out of it.


So any way you look at it, it's a bad idea. That being said...


3- You can try to undervolt a pump, but it may not work. A dimmer will not work, it is only designed to clip the top of an AC sinewave, which works very well for light bulbs, but very poorly for variable load items, like a pump. (i.e. the pump draws lots more current at the top of the sine wave). I've used a dimmer on an AC motor before (a small fan) and it works, but you can tell just from the noise it makes, that it's already struggling...

3B- Some pumps, mostly industrial types, are designed to run at the top of their specified voltage range. Running under that voltage may have a number of unpredictable results, up to, and including, the pump not moving any water whatsoever.

The easiest way to drop the voltage, would be to slap a big resistor between the AC outlet and the pump. The problem is that it would have to be rated for at least 250W, and I can tell you right now, you're not likely to find one, never mind being able to fit it anywhere...

So if you really want to try it, then go right ahead: we're all waiting anxiously to see the results...

Hmm I dont recall asking if this is the worst thread ever.

In fact, it is not, It is informative...

1. I never said a 900 GPH pump is better.

1A. there is about 1-2 PSI on my pump, and there are 0 leaks, even without using any clamps

1B. Theres 1-2 PSI resistance

2. Thats why im going to downvolt... And I already read Una's post.

3. They must have a Variable dimmer thing or something I can use somewhere...We did go to the moon, I think they might have a dimmer or the like to control motors

3A. You skipped 3A dumbass

3B. Its a $45 pump so its not really industrial, Its just big and strong.


...Anyways, I never said this is a good Idea, But I will make it work. And If I cant Ill head over to K-Mart and get a small cheap marine pump.

[Cieprus]

Originally posted by ECUPirate
heh. I've got the 1250, which I run 24/7. When I turn off my PC (and thus, my rad fans), the pump heats the water up A LOT. My CPU temps run about 12-14C higher when I first boot up. The fans quickly cool the water back down. When just the pump is running, the rad is very warm to the touch. This pump puts off about 28 watts (I think), and vibrates and makes more noise than a smaller pump would. (Albeit, not much noise anyway). I wonder if the 1048 wouldn't have been a better idea.
If you put 900 GPH in your system, you're asking for trouble. I you turn your fans off and not the pump, your water temps are going to get very high. When you start up you PC, the CPU temps will likely go through the roof. I don't know how high, or if damage will occur, but I wouldn't want to find out.

... I trust you'll be running an extra rad or two to cool dissipate the extra heat the pump is generating???

Im sorry I choose your post to do this...But

I WANT TO DOWNVOLT TO LOWER THE GPH!!!!

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by Cieprus


Hmm I dont recall asking if this is the worst thread ever.

In fact, it is not, It is informative...

1. I never said a 900 GPH pump is better.

1A. there is about 1-2 PSI on my pump, and there are 0 leaks, even without using any clamps

1B. Theres 1-2 PSI resistance

2. Thats why im going to downvolt... And I already read Una's post.

3. They must have a Variable dimmer thing or something I can use somewhere...We did go to the moon, I think they might have a dimmer or the like to control motors

3A. You skipped 3A dumbass

3B. Its a $45 pump so its not really industrial, Its just big and strong.


...Anyways, I never said this is a good Idea, But I will make it work. And If I cant Ill head over to K-Mart and get a small cheap marine pump.

Well, just to let you know, the "dum***s" remark was uncalled for, but anyways.

I will give you that the idea of running a large pump, and running it underspec, is a perfectly valid idea, from a reliability point of view.

On the other hand, as almost everyone else has pointed out, you are going to come across some difficulties.

If it's any help, you could try a diode, to clip the sine wave of the AC, but I'm not sure how you'd wire that up. It's a very cheap setup, and it's not a flexible one, as you won't be able to change the voltage, unless you swap diodes, but it will work. If you want a variable supply, then that a whole different ballgame.

The fundamental problem that we have with your idea, is that it's not practical, in terms of all the adjustments of the power for the pump. You have to remember that your pump will probably require 250W (at max voltage) of power which, very much like a Power Supply, will cost around $40. (but hey, a couple of diodes, rated properly, would probably cost less than $5). And as we've pointed out, it may not work at all.

But again, I will give you credit for coming up with something that would be more reliable than anything else any of us are using.

Personally, I'd rather spend 24$ on a couple of RIO pumps, or for reliability's sake, just fork out the $60 for the Eheim, which will fit nicely in my case.