blocks with "poly" tops.

[TiTch]

This is about the reported problems with the maze3. Someone I know from Finland has just had his system die when his maze3 lid gave out. The reason givem by someone else is that the properties of lucite are not ideas for block tops (lexan is better I gather), but are easy to mass produce hence why DD went for it. Now is the a common problems with acrylic tops. I am trying to get a TC-4 (left it too late for the spir@l list), but wondering now if I should give poly tops a miss and get the copper one. It has been pointed to me that replacement tops can be got for the spir@l (please this is a question not a critism, honest Fixitt), why?

[bigben2k]

Well Titch, it comes down to this:
Are you trying to build a working computer, or a pretty one?

I share your concern with clear tops: they just don't seem like a good idea, except for aesthetics. I would be more comfortable with TC-4, once I've soldered a copper top on it (but I also want side inlet/outlet...).

The funny thing is, those clear tops can be quite thick, where a very thin plate of copper could easily keep the block securely sealed...

[UpAllNight]

i would agree that copper tops probley would be better ...but i dont for see my maze3 block ever leaking...i have pused and pulled on the barbs(no crackes) i have hooked it up to a garden hose for a week(40 psi) with no leaks...so i have faith in the tops myself(but mine has no crackes in it to

[TiTch]

The TC-4 is the one with the turbulator in (not made by gemini)that has a copper top at present and will soon have a version with a poly top. I would like a working computer, but if I can have pretty as well it would be nice, but not essentual.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by TiTch
The TC-4 is the one with the turbulator in (not made by gemini)that has a copper top at present and will soon have a version with a poly top. I would like a working computer, but if I can have pretty as well it would be nice, but not essentual.

Thanks for the correction! I thought Mr Fixittt made the spiral
http://www.geminicool.com/
so I thought Gemini was making the TC-4 (corrected above).

[TiTch]

This is the one I mean, I don't know who makes it though.

[bigben2k]

Yep, that's the one... if it had inlet and outlet from the sides, that would eliminate 2 90D bends. It would still have 6 90D bends (3*180), but those turbulators... sweet!

[Fixittt]

Ok setting the record straight.

I do make the Spir@l blocks,
Gemini makes a simalure but lot smaller block like the Spir@l block.
And D-tek customs makes the TC-4.

Now I can understand why this can get confusing, becaus all 3 blocks can be had from one place. www.dtekcustoms.com

We (Dtek, myself, and gemini) did this for one reason, a kind of one stop shopping center. No matter what flavor you want, it can be had at one place.

Also, as for the clear tops, I love them. I am a form, and function kind of guy. I want the preformance, and the looks, call me greedy. now while a plastic type top will never ever ever be as strong as a soldered on copper top. There has to be something said for the way it looks, not only that, but to be able to take it apart and clean the inside. U know, to get all the growy stuff out if need be. Yes acrylic, and other plastics will crack. I knew this from the beginning. That is why I made extra tops. For the 1 st version, Dtek has about 30 tops on hand, and for the second version (just a small adjustment to the mounting holes for the top) I am in the process of maching more for replacements.

and NO, I do not make the gemini blocks. Peter at gemini cool does. But I am a front for OCWC heheheheheheheh

[jtroutma]

So Fixxitt:

Are the TC-4 ready for shipping yet or must we continue to drool over them?

One last question. What price range are we talking about when they are finally released?

[jtroutma]

Ok! I answered my own questions! DOH!!!

Well while I am already looking like a newbie, Do we have any numbers to go with these blocks as of temps and rigs?

[TiTch]

Fixittt, as the person who started this thread, I never confused who makes what (though I gather you make all the blocks for DD and swiftech as well) though you have answered the question I asked :
1) there will always be a risk of cracking with acryllic
2) Having an extra lid is mainly for looks ie to keep clean.

and yes I do like looks as well, why should our computers look ugly.

P.S thanks for telling me who makes it as that is the only thing that is not clear on Dteks site.

[bigben2k]

Boy Mr Fixittt, I sure am glad you're here to clear that up!

So let me see if I still have it straight: Gemini makes the spiral block, and you make the hi-flow version? (Is that what you meant by "...lot smaller..."?)

And Danny at DTek of course, is making the TC-4.

Mr Fixittt, your link doesn't work... (borderbuyer.com?)

[Fixittt]

yeah big ben, my site is gone..... boo hooo......... Oh well, it was free while it lasted.

If you wanted to put it into retrospect, Gemini makes a low flow and high flow design of his block,

Now take 5 of his blocks, U could prolly fit all 5 of his into mine, I will have to take more side by side pics, to show size differences, but here are some quick numbers to help.

The gemini low flow block (copper alone with out tops) are
h=.245
and 2 in square

the high flow is
h=.5
and 2 in square

while the spir@l is
h=.945
L=3.00
w=2.5

chanel with by my best cal. without taking the top off of the Gemini block is .2 wide

The Spir@l channel with is .320 and is .690 deep

as U can see, there is ALOT of differences between the 2 blocks.


As far as the price goes on the TC-4`s, I dont know..... aint gotta clue, that is D-teks baby. And when will they hit the shelfs? I dunno, All I know is that D-Tek is making the turbulators, and has 50 blocks waiting for them. So should be soon.

[Fixittt]

also, i am kinda in the process of moving my site, alot of stuff still doesnt work yet, but the new address is

www.custom-cooling.com/fixittt

[gone_fishin]

Fixitt, you got me curious. Why don't you use polycarbonate instead of Acrylic? It is many times more crack resistant. A 4" X 3" piece of raw stock 3/8" thick only costs a buck. If it's because it is more susceptible to scruffing, why can't it be spray coated to protect the surface?

[bigben2k]

Well Bravo! That spiral design is really ingenious. I managed to bother Danny about running a couple of them side-by-side on a massively large cold plate, because I believe that the spiral design is superior. He told me to wait for the next one... (TC-4?).

I have another idea, similar to what I've seen you discuss: a 3/8 or 1/2" center barb surrounded by a 1 3/4 barb. I just don't know how I'd put in the thread for the large barb. Any ideas?

[Fixittt]

gone fishin,

the main reason I used acrylic, is ... well, because I could get it.

[Brad]

fix, you mean just like that lead you make your waterblocks out of? :P

seriously though, a copper top is a more permanent solution that can't be easily damaged by overtightening, dropping it, or general mishap. A clear top can be affected by all of these much easier than a copper top, but then it looks better

[ItsSoLARGE]

What did Chip use on his polyblocks? I don't remember there being any big problems with his blocks comin apart. Plus he didn't even use screws on his polyblocks.. so im sure there's something that can hold the plastic on the maze 3 down

[Brad]

he used 3 - 4lbs of goop on each block, and I've heard of quite a few people say they still leaked

[DarkEdge]

The only thing I can tell you about using poly tops is be cautious. Also make damn sure you are using distilled water, i'm 95% sure its non conductive. We did some testing with conductive liquids in my science class when I was in the 9th grade. If its not distilled it may be de-ionized water. if any one does know for sure though please post, cause I just bought my new DD3.

[Cyco-Dude]

de-ionized water is non-conductive. sugar water is non-conductive too, but i dont think that would work too well as a coolant (it would taste good tho if you ever got any in ur mouth priming the system lol). distilled water may or may not be conductive (it probably is a little bit).

[DarkEdge]

So if your top does crack just make sure your using one of those and theres no worries, except for the fact that you might loose all your coolant.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by DarkEdge
The only thing I can tell you about using poly tops is be cautious. Also make damn sure you are using distilled water, i'm 95% sure its non conductive. We did some testing with conductive liquids in my science class when I was in the 9th grade. If its not distilled it may be de-ionized water. if any one does know for sure though please post, cause I just bought my new DD3.

It probably isn't, but what is more important to know is that the slightest impurity will make the water conductive: if there's some kind of coating inside of a tube left over from manufacturing, for example.

I like the distilled water, because it's a good start, but I'd still use an anti corrosion agent, even if it's just a little bit. On the other hand, if you know that your rig is of the same metal (including barbs), then you really don't have anything to worry about.

[GenGoku]

stupid question: if i ever get my hands on a spir@l or another poly/clear top and after testing it for a day (like though a single loop; eheim 1250 -> tube -> block -> tube -> back to eheim) i shouldn't have to worry about it leaking right? In addition, after setting up a full configuration (pump -> cpu -> gpu -> res -> rad; that is the right config if the rad is above psu right?) and it works fine as well as in the PC, i wont need to worry about leaks or cracks?

if so, is there a rule of thumb on when to check the system? my main reason for going to watercooling is to just quiet my system first and cool it better second.