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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: canada BC
Posts: 22
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hey yall im going to build my self a reservour from alu dimensions 8"X8"X8" aluminium and my water block will be all copper ive herd that alu and copper will corrode is this true... they are nto in direct contact but i guess the water runs through both so that how the corroding happens?. my next question is where do i get my hot little hands on a block of copper im lacated in CANADA BC.... my next questions is where should i have my intake im making the maze layout or a spiral kind it will have 2 holes 1 in the middle and one at the right bottem side ive thought and thought and knwo im here to ask if i shoudl have my intake in the middle or side?.........last question what is enough GPH for a system like this im thinking 15-300 GPH . please tell me what you think about this what i can improve on and ect thanxx
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#2 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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You're going a little too fast for me!!!
To recap: 1-Will copper and alu corrode? How? 2- Supplier of copper in Canada? 3- Ideal placement of in/outlet on a home-made spiral block? 4- Ideal flow rate for system? Answers: 1- Yes, it's called galvanic corrosion. 2- Don't know, but you can always go through DangerDen. Locally, I would try a machining shop (yellow pages) 3- Inlet in center. 4- Depends on overall system. Need more info! ![]() |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: canada BC
Posts: 22
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humm thanxx for that info does danger den sell any?
i have no clue what else to tel you about my set up so i dont knwo what flow rate to use!! so ur saying i shouldNT weld a aluminium reservour ...make it out of some thing else? thanxx |
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#4 |
Responsible for 2%
of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,302
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http://www.dangerden.com/mall/metal_stock.asp
The aluminium and the copper together, contacted by water will cause galvanic corrosion. You can run a search in Yahoo for the phenomenon. As for the rig, tell us: 1-tubing size 2-rad (type, barb size) 3-waterblock design (size, channel size, layout of channel, barb size, construction) 4-Pump (model, in-line or submerged) 5-Pelt? That's a good start... What are you trying to achieve? "Silent running" or "Lightning fast"? |
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: canada BC
Posts: 22
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1/4 3/8 or 1/2"
rad is going to be heater vore or turbo coller for transmission its smaller then heater core prolly bit more then 1/4 for the HC and TC the WB is going to be a spiral type with center as inlet and the bottem right side as outlet i dont knwo the dimensions yet or how deep but im guessing 3/8 by 2" by 2" pump is going to be out side so in-line i herd that if i mix distilled water and atifreeze it wont corrode as easly and no pelt helps? |
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#6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 312
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Don't use a tranny cooler, they don't work as well as a heater core. If you got the room use 1/2" id tubbing. You can also purchase metal stock from www.onlinemetals.com I don't konw if they deliver to CA. I would go with a bigger block, like 3"x 2 " at least 1/2" deep.
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water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55 |
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#7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: canada BC
Posts: 22
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the tranny coller wont work as well coz .... core is insulated and turbo coller isnt so ur right heater core is better im ****ing going crazy no one has Cu block and i dont want to buy off the net if worse comes to wrose i will!
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