Electrical help

ambient · 07-24-2002, 06:29 PM

I've converted an AT case to fit an ATX motherboard. Now I thought I could just use the Turbo switch for the power switch. Turns out the turbo switch has 3 wires white(pin 1), yellow, black in that order. I tried pluging it into another one of my machine's power switch mobo leads, but the box will only turn on for about 5 seconds then powers off. How do I either wire this switch or wire the regular AT power switch to power on an ATX motherboard? Thanks in advance for the help...

bigben2k · 07-24-2002, 06:34 PM

Use a voltmeter to find out which two leads are normally open (normally off). Use those.

ambient · 07-24-2002, 07:33 PM

Don't have one. Are the expensive?

bigben2k · 07-24-2002, 07:38 PM

Maybe $10.

Alternatively, do what I do: test it with a battery and a lightbulb from a flashlight.

ambient · 07-24-2002, 10:31 PM

ahh...I will try that thx.

ECUPirate · 07-25-2002, 11:42 AM

an ATX case power button is a momentary on switch.

(an AT case power button is on/off switch)

the turbo button should be an off/on switch.

I think that might be your problem..

redleader · 07-25-2002, 11:55 AM

You'll have to push the turbo button twice each time or the machine will probably power off. Otherwise it should work.

bigben2k · 07-25-2002, 12:14 PM

Oh yes... of course!

If you could replace that switch with one similar to the reset button, you'd be all set.

ECUPirate · 07-25-2002, 12:17 PM

glad I could help. I learned this when I almost electrocuted myself while playing w/ an at psu. (there's an old at case torn apart on my floor.

) Those two brown leads from the PSU to the at switch are HOT! beware. brown = mains... duh.

bigben2k · 07-25-2002, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ECUPirate
glad I could help. I learned this when I almost electrocuted myself while playing w/ an at psu. (there's an old at case torn apart on my floor. ) Those two brown leads from the PSU to the at switch are HOT! beware. brown = mains... duh.

LOL! I can just picture how the case "came apart"...

ECUPirate · 07-25-2002, 12:32 PM

hehe.... dude, I've got PC parts from that old thing strewn from here to yonder. I've been pirating the little molex connectors, extra wire, heatsinks, whatever.

I use the AT PSU to play with my fans.

Nerdy? maybe. Chicks still dig it.

hey, speak of the devil, anyone know where I get get a bunch of molex connectors (w/ the little metal inserts) for cheap? I thinks caseetc has some, but you've got to buy everything separately, so it's like $2 for just one set of M/F connectors w/ pins.

ambient · 07-25-2002, 01:25 PM

www.bgmicro.com used to have molex connectors. i will try the pushing it twice thing. Will this hurt the mobo at all?

airspirit · 07-25-2002, 01:43 PM

Um, go to radio shack and hook up with a new switch. Tear the old crap switch off and put the new one in its place. Consider it a kewl mod: a huge red switch like you'd find on a nukie reactor. Having to push a button twice to power on your pc is a crud solution (sorry for the harshness). In the end you'll have your drunk buddy pushing it over and over and possibly fry your PSU from rapid cycling some night (y0, ambient, why is smoke and bright lights coming from the back??? [my wife said something similar recently]). I just put a relay on my machine for my pump because of this same reason: I can't trust my wife to plug in the pump before firing it up, and I knew that some day I'd come home to find my machine "on fire." Plus, you should invest in a multimeter anyway to help with any electrical modding. They are just a good investment. If you don't have much electrical experience, make sure you get a digital type.

MeltMan · 07-25-2002, 01:55 PM

No, it wont hurt the mobo at all. Picture it this way... How do you turn off a locked up atx machine? Hold down the power for 5 seconds. So, what is happening in your case is that the machine is powering up, seeing that the switch is depressed ..1...2...3...4...5... turn off. Wire it to your reset switch or get a momentary that you can put in its place. You might be able to glue it behind and use the existing button even.

ECUPirate · 07-25-2002, 02:07 PM

agreed.

ambient · 07-25-2002, 03:12 PM

do you think i could get a switch that would fit in the old power hole?

ambient · 07-25-2002, 03:13 PM

hmm..to bad the pics didn't show. just look at the link below.
http://4mbi3nt.50megs.com/index.html

bigben2k · 07-25-2002, 03:21 PM

You should be able to, but since you can't take a pic of the inside space, where the old switch is, then you're on your own.

I'd consider using an old keyboard "key". Otherwise, any momentary switch would do.

scopEDog · 07-25-2002, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ECUPirate
hey speak of the devil, anyone know where I get get a bunch of molex connectors (w/ the little metal inserts) for cheap? I thinks caseetc has some, but you've got to buy everything separately, so it's like $2 for just one set of M/F connectors w/ pins.

You might find this thread interesting: http://www.pheatonforums.com/phpBB2/...ht+angle+molex

MeltMan · 07-25-2002, 04:00 PM

look at the actual switched behind the buttons. Just go to radioshack, buy a normally open momentary switch, pull off its dumb cover, glue it to the back of your button, and mount it.

ECUPirate · 07-25-2002, 04:01 PM

killer.. thanks scope3dog

ambient · 07-25-2002, 04:03 PM

the back looks like a square with 3 pins inserted into the round hole. it glued in. i will check radio shack.

airspirit · 07-26-2002, 05:38 PM

Here's a thought: take your faceplate off and haul it to to Radio Hack. Browse the switches and find one that looks good for your purposes and then make the case fit the switch. Alternately, they have absolutely tiny switches, so I'm sure you'll find something that'll work.

ambient · 08-02-2002, 09:58 AM

i went there with the face plate, they didn't have any switches, all they had was AC. I think i may have to order it. I just finished building every thing and i wanna turn this thing on and test it. I will be getting a different switch in a couple of days. I have a different problem now. There are 3 leads on the turbo switch and only 2 available pins to plug in to on my motherboard. I was thinkin i could just clip one of the leads off and plug in the other 2, or clip all three apart and plug in whichever 2 are necessary. Or possibly use the reset switch? Please forgive my ignorance i don't know sheeet about electricity.

Any suggestions? Included is a pic of the motherboard panel conectors.

airspirit · 08-02-2002, 01:51 PM

Okay, first you have to ignore the clerks. They are normally ... special people. What you need is a momentary switch. I can't imagine them having nothing usable. The switch you need has two leads. One in, one out, and it'll be labelled "momentary" (I think the actual terminology is SPST). They should have dozens (every one I've been to does ... where are you?). If that doesn't work, try an auto parts store, they normally have toggle switches and push button switches for the crazy stereo/CB crowd.

If anything else, go here: http://www.mpja.com/list.asp?dept=63

They are designed for computer use.

This one would look nifty, if mounted right: http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product=5020+SW

07-24-2002, 06:29 PM	#1
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	Electrical help I've converted an AT case to fit an ATX motherboard. Now I thought I could just use the Turbo switch for the power switch. Turns out the turbo switch has 3 wires white(pin 1), yellow, black in that order. I tried pluging it into another one of my machine's power switch mobo leads, but the box will only turn on for about 5 seconds then powers off. How do I either wire this switch or wire the regular AT power switch to power on an ATX motherboard? Thanks in advance for the help... __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-24-2002, 06:34 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Use a voltmeter to find out which two leads are normally open (normally off). Use those. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-24-2002, 07:33 PM	#3
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	Don't have one. Are the expensive? __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-24-2002, 07:38 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Maybe $10. Alternatively, do what I do: test it with a battery and a lightbulb from a flashlight. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-24-2002, 10:31 PM	#5
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	ahh...I will try that thx. __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-25-2002, 11:42 AM	#6
ECUPirate Hottest Stank of them All Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Washington, DC area Posts: 533	an ATX case power button is a momentary on switch. (an AT case power button is on/off switch) the turbo button should be an off/on switch. I think that might be your problem.. __________________ Does a radioactive cat have 18 half lifes? --Kenny my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled... 486DX-2 66mhz @ 75mhz, 4Mb ram, shared, 256Mb hard drive Onboard VGA, watercooled, of course 16-color monitor, labtec speakers, 28kbs USRobotics modem Windows XP (think about it) Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan

07-25-2002, 11:55 AM	#7
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	You'll have to push the turbo button twice each time or the machine will probably power off. Otherwise it should work.

07-25-2002, 12:14 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Oh yes... of course! If you could replace that switch with one similar to the reset button, you'd be all set. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-25-2002, 12:17 PM	#9
ECUPirate Hottest Stank of them All Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Washington, DC area Posts: 533	glad I could help. I learned this when I almost electrocuted myself while playing w/ an at psu. (there's an old at case torn apart on my floor. ) Those two brown leads from the PSU to the at switch are HOT! beware. brown = mains... duh. __________________ Does a radioactive cat have 18 half lifes? --Kenny my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled... 486DX-2 66mhz @ 75mhz, 4Mb ram, shared, 256Mb hard drive Onboard VGA, watercooled, of course 16-color monitor, labtec speakers, 28kbs USRobotics modem Windows XP (think about it) Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan

07-25-2002, 12:32 PM	#11
ECUPirate Hottest Stank of them All Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Washington, DC area Posts: 533	hehe.... dude, I've got PC parts from that old thing strewn from here to yonder. I've been pirating the little molex connectors, extra wire, heatsinks, whatever. I use the AT PSU to play with my fans. Nerdy? maybe. Chicks still dig it. hey, speak of the devil, anyone know where I get get a bunch of molex connectors (w/ the little metal inserts) for cheap? I thinks caseetc has some, but you've got to buy everything separately, so it's like $2 for just one set of M/F connectors w/ pins. __________________ Does a radioactive cat have 18 half lifes? --Kenny my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled... 486DX-2 66mhz @ 75mhz, 4Mb ram, shared, 256Mb hard drive Onboard VGA, watercooled, of course 16-color monitor, labtec speakers, 28kbs USRobotics modem Windows XP (think about it) Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan

07-25-2002, 01:25 PM	#12
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	www.bgmicro.com used to have molex connectors. i will try the pushing it twice thing. Will this hurt the mobo at all? __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-25-2002, 01:43 PM	#13
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Um, go to radio shack and hook up with a new switch. Tear the old crap switch off and put the new one in its place. Consider it a kewl mod: a huge red switch like you'd find on a nukie reactor. Having to push a button twice to power on your pc is a crud solution (sorry for the harshness). In the end you'll have your drunk buddy pushing it over and over and possibly fry your PSU from rapid cycling some night (y0, ambient, why is smoke and bright lights coming from the back??? [my wife said something similar recently]). I just put a relay on my machine for my pump because of this same reason: I can't trust my wife to plug in the pump before firing it up, and I knew that some day I'd come home to find my machine "on fire." Plus, you should invest in a multimeter anyway to help with any electrical modding. They are just a good investment. If you don't have much electrical experience, make sure you get a digital type.

07-25-2002, 01:55 PM	#14
MeltMan Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: KS Posts: 374	No, it wont hurt the mobo at all. Picture it this way... How do you turn off a locked up atx machine? Hold down the power for 5 seconds. So, what is happening in your case is that the machine is powering up, seeing that the switch is depressed ..1...2...3...4...5... turn off. Wire it to your reset switch or get a momentary that you can put in its place. You might be able to glue it behind and use the existing button even. __________________ MeltMan Lurker Supreme!

07-25-2002, 02:07 PM	#15
ECUPirate Hottest Stank of them All Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Washington, DC area Posts: 533	agreed. __________________ Does a radioactive cat have 18 half lifes? --Kenny my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled... 486DX-2 66mhz @ 75mhz, 4Mb ram, shared, 256Mb hard drive Onboard VGA, watercooled, of course 16-color monitor, labtec speakers, 28kbs USRobotics modem Windows XP (think about it) Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan

07-25-2002, 03:12 PM	#16
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	do you think i could get a switch that would fit in the old power hole? __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-25-2002, 03:13 PM	#17
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	hmm..to bad the pics didn't show. just look at the link below. http://4mbi3nt.50megs.com/index.html __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-25-2002, 03:21 PM	#18
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	You should be able to, but since you can't take a pic of the inside space, where the old switch is, then you're on your own. I'd consider using an old keyboard "key". Otherwise, any momentary switch would do. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-25-2002, 04:00 PM	#20
MeltMan Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: KS Posts: 374	look at the actual switched behind the buttons. Just go to radioshack, buy a normally open momentary switch, pull off its dumb cover, glue it to the back of your button, and mount it. __________________ MeltMan Lurker Supreme!

07-25-2002, 04:01 PM	#21
ECUPirate Hottest Stank of them All Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Washington, DC area Posts: 533	killer.. thanks scope3dog __________________ Does a radioactive cat have 18 half lifes? --Kenny my pimpin' rig: ...previously poorly cooled... 486DX-2 66mhz @ 75mhz, 4Mb ram, shared, 256Mb hard drive Onboard VGA, watercooled, of course 16-color monitor, labtec speakers, 28kbs USRobotics modem Windows XP (think about it) Maze 3, DDen GF3 block, Eheim 1250, econoline van HC, 1/2" hose w/ 5/8" fittings Comair 172mm fan

07-25-2002, 04:03 PM	#22
ambient Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 312	the back looks like a square with 3 pins inserted into the round hole. it glued in. i will check radio shack. __________________ water cooled 1.4 tbird @ 1580 143x11 vcore 1.88 vio 3.55

07-26-2002, 05:38 PM	#23
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Here's a thought: take your faceplate off and haul it to to Radio Hack. Browse the switches and find one that looks good for your purposes and then make the case fit the switch. Alternately, they have absolutely tiny switches, so I'm sure you'll find something that'll work.

08-02-2002, 01:51 PM	#25
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Okay, first you have to ignore the clerks. They are normally ... special people. What you need is a momentary switch. I can't imagine them having nothing usable. The switch you need has two leads. One in, one out, and it'll be labelled "momentary" (I think the actual terminology is SPST). They should have dozens (every one I've been to does ... where are you?). If that doesn't work, try an auto parts store, they normally have toggle switches and push button switches for the crazy stereo/CB crowd. If anything else, go here: http://www.mpja.com/list.asp?dept=63 They are designed for computer use. This one would look nifty, if mounted right: http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product=5020+SW

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