Galvanic Corrosion

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 01:13 PM

I'm working on putting together design ideas for a rackmount system with centralized water cooling. I'm planning on using all copper blocks, and PVC piping and silicone tubing wherever possible. I am finding, though, that PVC valves are an expensive PITA to get and work with, though the brass ones aren't. Similarly, I've found some absolutely outstanding stainless steel rads online for next to nothing that I could use in an array configuration. Will the brass and copper interfere with each other? Will the stainless? I'm actually looking like I'm going to be putting all this together in december (though only one machine in the array will be on the cooling loop at that point ... the other goes on in January with a new mobo/cpu ... I don't want to WC a slot A athlon), and I'm trying to get all the information together I need. My thought is that I'm going to isolate each rackmount component with a butterfly valve and have the butterfly valve equipped with quick-disconnects (like for hydraulics or pneumatics) to make maintaining the various systems easy. The only problem is I don't want to worry about corrosion. Any input?

bigben2k · 10-29-2002, 01:33 PM

I don't know about you, but the PVC valve I use was just a charm, although it can be bulky.

I attached one to my pump inlet for a drain point. I put a threaded joiner at the inlet (female NPT, 1/2), to which I screwed a threaded CPVC tee. I used another threaded joiner to attach the bottom of the tee to a threaded PVC ball valve.

The PVC ball valve can be pricey, but 4-5$ isn't too bad, is it?

As for the galvanic corrosion, yes, everything will interfere: brass on copper, copper on stainless, stainless on brass...

Look at this chart

Copper and brass are pretty close to each other, so the effect will be very small.

Stainless steel on the other hand, has a nickel plating, and that's some way down the chart. It's not as bad as aluminium+copper, but it's there. Stainless steel itself is found throughout the chart, because there are different compositions of it available.

If I was you, I'd stick with the heatercore. I can look one up for you, if you give me a size.

myv65 · 10-29-2002, 01:40 PM

Stainless steel's heat transfer sucks. This is pretty much true throughout the various "flavors" that are available. Unless you have space for a larger-than-normally-needed radiator, I would stick to copper tube with aluminum fins.

Chromium is the element that makes steel stainless and it's a protective coating of chromium oxide that is primarily responsible for the surface protection of stainless steel. The myriad other metals that you can find in various stainless are mainly for:

1) Determining physical properties, such as strength, crystal structure (austenite, ferrite, martensite)

2) Modifying the corrosion resistance

3) Determining magnetic properties, if any (mainly from crystalline structure)

4) Determining hardenability

As to the copper/brass/(and bronze) questions, they are all close in the galvanic series because they all have copper as their main ingredient. What corrosion you would have with distilled water would be slow. A touch of a corrosion inhibitor will control that without dropping heat transfer characteristics too much.

bigben2k · 10-29-2002, 01:56 PM

Well it was either nickel or chrome. Now I know

hmale · 10-29-2002, 02:18 PM

Metals corrode when they release their ions within the fluid medium they exist.

When a metal goes into solution e.g. in water, it is due to the loss of at least one electron. The rate of discharge is specific and unique to each metal.

The wetted metals now exist between a specific range of voltages. This voltage differential is the result of the balance of the anodic and cathodic reactions...and while the voltage differentials are unique for each metal, they are indeed measureable.

The balance of the voltages for different metals within a fluid medium (water in this case) is commonly referred to as a galvanic series.

Any time metals with different voltages are electrically connected in a fluid, a current will want to flow between them until they have the same voltage.

There is another consideration that must be taken into account when considering using different metals in water, and that is their mass relative to each other. The rate of galvanic corrosion is directly impacted by these values. A small amount of copper will not cause a great deal of corrosion when it coexists with a large amount of steel within a fluid medium, whereas a large amount of copper will very quickly cause extensive damage relative to a small amount of steel.

My recommendation would be not to use the steel radiators.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!

hmale · 10-29-2002, 02:25 PM

[quote]Originally posted by myv65
[b]Stainless steel's heat transfer sucks.

That of course is the best reason to avoid the steel radiators.

I love it when someone hits right at the core of an issue!

Cheers!

koslov · 10-29-2002, 02:32 PM

Stainless steel rads can't be all that bad according to this graph from Lytron:

These heat exchangers are identical except for the tubing material. Perhaps they use some special alloy that "doesn't suck."

And shouldn't we be talking about corrosion between chromium oxide and copper?

Update: Lytron uses 316L stainless steel that is "mechanically expanded into the copper fins for an intimate thermal connection."

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 02:40 PM

Eh, looks like I stick with PVC. Unfortunately, this'll kill the quick disconnect idea, unless someone knows of a PVC/plastic/nylon version of them. As far as the heater core, I'm just looking for something massive I can use, similar to 15x15 inches ... I'm going to be pumping multiple machines through it. I may need to use multiple smaller ones (most likely). Thanks for the help so far, guys.

bigben2k · 10-29-2002, 02:52 PM

There are no heatercores in 15 by 15 sizes, that I know of. I can't find 5 by 15, nor 7.5 by 15, but 7.5 by 7.5 is possible. 5 by 5 is also available.

I'm first going to point you towards an unusual heatercore:

2-636

It's 9 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 3 3/8 inch. It's from a VW Fox. It's small, compact, but very thick.

There's also 2-531, 20 1/2 by 3 1/8 by 2 inch. Ford.

Koslov: are you sure that that's not a mistake? The graphs are identical.

bigben2k · 10-29-2002, 02:55 PM

There are plastic quick-disconnects out there, with auto-shut-off.

I spec'ed some from NewAgeIndustries.com, but a single set of insert-coupler-plug and cap was about $22.

5601561 - $4.32 per pc, no stock. Lead time is 2-3 wks.
5600385 - $8.41 per pc. In stock.
5602989 - $3.45 per pc. In stock.
5602681 - $7.54 per pc. In stock.

Good luck.

hmale · 10-29-2002, 03:16 PM

Being that the thermal conductivity of Copper is 231 Vs 8.09 and 8.11 for Stainless 304 and 430 respectively, I am having trouble understanding how the performance of the Lytron's heat exchagers are identical, if all other variables other than material are the same.

??

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 03:22 PM

I'm looking for a large radiator to use for the whole thing ... something tall and wide and thin that I can bolt a stack of 120s at very low voltage to. I'll have to keep my eyes open. As far as the fittings go, they look like they'd work, but the price is insane ... I'll see if I can find them cheaper somewhere else. Thanks, Ben.

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 03:35 PM

Check out this shiz:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...Thread+Coupler
and
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...Thread+Adaptor

Between the two, you can get a set for $8 a pop for 1/2" line, and they auto seal when pulled apart. This could really be helpful for anyone who is constantly f*cking with their system. Imagine having these things on the block itself ... it would make installation easier since you wouldn't have the hoses in the way. For the initial two machines it would only set me back $35 and it'd be worth the reduction in stress, methinks.

My question, though, is how sturdy that polypropylene is when using it with the chems we use? Is this similar to PVC or those nylon fittings?

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 03:39 PM

F*ck, those don't autoseal. I can still avoid problems with butterfly valves, but blech! I don't know ... I just want a simple and effective way to lock down an area of a coolant loop without spending my retirement savings (however meager that may be).

hmale · 10-29-2002, 03:41 PM

Polypropylene is highly chemical resistance...more than enough for use with the chemicals typically used water-cooled systems.

Cheers!

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 04:18 PM

Rawk ... thanks for the input.

I was thinking of using 4U cases in an open rack ... I'm starting to rethink that. Rather than spend $70 per cheeeep 4U case and hundreds on the open frame (I can't believe how expensive they are for a do-it-yourself erector set), I'm thinking of building the base in the form of a nightstand like table with a large vent in the front and back. Half would contain the radiator assembly(s) and the other half would be the res and pump. Instead of 4Us, I'm thinking of buying a bunch of Enlight 7200 cases for $40 each (shipped) and just stacking them with stick-on rubber feet mounted on the bottom corners for spacing. If I need extra stability, I'll just make a support frame out of wood or something (but classy). I figure with a nice walnut stained base and a bunch of black painted desktop cases like that, it'd serve the purpose of centralizing the room and looking good without the huge costs. I figure, pump aside (which I'll probably spend over $200 on), I can build the whole thing modularly for about $200 (5ft of 2" PVC, 4xquick disconnect pairs, 30ft 3/8" Tygon, extra WB, heatercore, decent quality wood, stain, bugscreen [for the vents to prevent my box from making weasel paste]) and make it schweet. The idea of a massively tall 6ft tower of 2" clear PVC containing glowy neon green coolant (super efficient air trap and conversation piece) is turning this whole thing into an obsession. What more, I even have my wife interested in it for once.

Going off the original topic, what kind of pain would you recommend for computer cases? I've seen some horrible results on some, and awesome results on others. Any type recommended (and I know to rough the surfaces first!)?

hmale · 10-29-2002, 04:29 PM

The best article I have ever seen on case painting is here

airspirit · 10-29-2002, 04:50 PM

Thanks. Where is a good place to find Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing? I looked at usplastic and it was 6.50/ft!!!!! Anyplace have it under $2/ft?

koslov · 10-29-2002, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Koslov: are you sure that that's not a mistake? The graphs are identical.

I hope it's right, because I just bought a new 4120 (the stainless steel one) for $40 (Retail $352).

myv65 · 10-29-2002, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by koslov
Update: Lytron uses 316L stainless steel that is "mechanically expanded into the copper fins for an intimate thermal connection."

Just a hunch, but I'm willing to bet they have a thinner wall on the SS tubing than the copper. Given the higher strength of SS, this is a good way to make up for the crappy conductivity.

316SS is far from a special steel. Along with 304, it's among the most common of stainless grades. The "L" merely means that it has low carbon content, which aids a little in welding.

Alchemy · 10-30-2002, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by myv65
Just a hunch, but I'm willing to bet they have a thinner wall on the SS tubing than the copper. Given the higher strength of SS, this is a good way to make up for the crappy conductivity.

316SS is far from a special steel. Along with 304, it's among the most common of stainless grades. The "L" merely means that it has low carbon content, which aids a little in welding.

Weakens it, too, but not by much.

http://www.sppusa.com/reference/white_paper/wp_ss.html

Alchemy

jtroutma · 10-30-2002, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by airspirit
Thanks. Where is a good place to find Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing? I looked at usplastic and it was 6.50/ft!!!!! Anyplace have it under $2/ft?

I just bought some from BECooling about a week ago. About $2.35 per foot. Dtek also has it for sale but is more expensive and rarely in stock.

http://becooling.safeshopper.com

bigben2k · 10-30-2002, 06:22 PM

But DTek also carries CL60 now: same specs, and cheaper!

airspirit · 10-30-2002, 08:41 PM

Cool. I'm looking for a massive radiator now to do this whole thing with. Getting this past my wife will be tough ... she's on to me, methinks. I'm telling her I'm looking for good deals on parts for the future ... I think she suspects that tomorrow is part of the future .... I'm probably going to get a new mobo, proc, and ram (prob a KT3U2/1600+/256PC2700 samsung) for her machine early december (by then I'll have a rad ready), and use her old mobo/proc (athlon 700 slot A and an Epox somethin-o'-other) and some spare parts as a linux firewall/DNS server/Proxy/web server (sparing my gaming machine from sudden disk accesses from people pulling HTTP/FTP off of it from my neighborhood intranet when I'm rawkin' on UT2K3).

Once I have her machine upgraded and a radiator in hand, I'm going to sneakily buy some wood and construct a chest-like table with vents in the front and back. Then I'm going to convince her to let me go ahead since the cases, hose, waterblock, and tubing will only be around 150 ... won't it make the room nicer? I'm such a devious bastid it makes me sick.

I'm thinking that the black "stereo component" look won't cut it. I may go with some bling-bling and use chrome paint on the front panels .... They'll go nicely with my tower of green coolant. I'm soooo itching to get this ball on the road ... I can't wait to post pics of the whole thing in progress (not to mention DONE).

Do you guys think there'd be a market for bling-bling WC rackmount systems? I'm sure some other freak out there would want one ....

koslov · 11-02-2002, 02:02 AM

So... should I be ok using a stainless steel rad, such as the 4120, with a copper WB if I use some corrosion inhibitor? What would work best for this purpose?

10-29-2002, 01:13 PM	#1
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Galvanic Corrosion I'm working on putting together design ideas for a rackmount system with centralized water cooling. I'm planning on using all copper blocks, and PVC piping and silicone tubing wherever possible. I am finding, though, that PVC valves are an expensive PITA to get and work with, though the brass ones aren't. Similarly, I've found some absolutely outstanding stainless steel rads online for next to nothing that I could use in an array configuration. Will the brass and copper interfere with each other? Will the stainless? I'm actually looking like I'm going to be putting all this together in december (though only one machine in the array will be on the cooling loop at that point ... the other goes on in January with a new mobo/cpu ... I don't want to WC a slot A athlon), and I'm trying to get all the information together I need. My thought is that I'm going to isolate each rackmount component with a butterfly valve and have the butterfly valve equipped with quick-disconnects (like for hydraulics or pneumatics) to make maintaining the various systems easy. The only problem is I don't want to worry about corrosion. Any input? __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-29-2002, 01:33 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I don't know about you, but the PVC valve I use was just a charm, although it can be bulky. I attached one to my pump inlet for a drain point. I put a threaded joiner at the inlet (female NPT, 1/2), to which I screwed a threaded CPVC tee. I used another threaded joiner to attach the bottom of the tee to a threaded PVC ball valve. The PVC ball valve can be pricey, but 4-5$ isn't too bad, is it? As for the galvanic corrosion, yes, everything will interfere: brass on copper, copper on stainless, stainless on brass... Look at this chart Copper and brass are pretty close to each other, so the effect will be very small. Stainless steel on the other hand, has a nickel plating, and that's some way down the chart. It's not as bad as aluminium+copper, but it's there. Stainless steel itself is found throughout the chart, because there are different compositions of it available. If I was you, I'd stick with the heatercore. I can look one up for you, if you give me a size. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-29-2002, 01:56 PM	#4
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Well it was either nickel or chrome. Now I know __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-29-2002, 02:18 PM	#5
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Metals corrode when they release their ions within the fluid medium they exist. When a metal goes into solution e.g. in water, it is due to the loss of at least one electron. The rate of discharge is specific and unique to each metal. The wetted metals now exist between a specific range of voltages. This voltage differential is the result of the balance of the anodic and cathodic reactions...and while the voltage differentials are unique for each metal, they are indeed measureable. The balance of the voltages for different metals within a fluid medium (water in this case) is commonly referred to as a galvanic series. Any time metals with different voltages are electrically connected in a fluid, a current will want to flow between them until they have the same voltage. There is another consideration that must be taken into account when considering using different metals in water, and that is their mass relative to each other. The rate of galvanic corrosion is directly impacted by these values. A small amount of copper will not cause a great deal of corrosion when it coexists with a large amount of steel within a fluid medium, whereas a large amount of copper will very quickly cause extensive damage relative to a small amount of steel. My recommendation would be not to use the steel radiators. I hope this helps. Cheers! Last edited by hmale; 10-29-2002 at 02:27 PM.

10-29-2002, 02:32 PM	#7
koslov Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Posts: 264	Stainless steel rads can't be all that bad according to this graph from Lytron: These heat exchangers are identical except for the tubing material. Perhaps they use some special alloy that "doesn't suck." And shouldn't we be talking about corrosion between chromium oxide and copper? Update: Lytron uses 316L stainless steel that is "mechanically expanded into the copper fins for an intimate thermal connection." Last edited by koslov; 10-29-2002 at 05:03 PM.

10-29-2002, 01:40 PM	#3
myv65 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: home Posts: 365	Stainless steel's heat transfer sucks. This is pretty much true throughout the various "flavors" that are available. Unless you have space for a larger-than-normally-needed radiator, I would stick to copper tube with aluminum fins. Chromium is the element that makes steel stainless and it's a protective coating of chromium oxide that is primarily responsible for the surface protection of stainless steel. The myriad other metals that you can find in various stainless are mainly for: 1) Determining physical properties, such as strength, crystal structure (austenite, ferrite, martensite) 2) Modifying the corrosion resistance 3) Determining magnetic properties, if any (mainly from crystalline structure) 4) Determining hardenability As to the copper/brass/(and bronze) questions, they are all close in the galvanic series because they all have copper as their main ingredient. What corrosion you would have with distilled water would be slow. A touch of a corrosion inhibitor will control that without dropping heat transfer characteristics too much.

10-29-2002, 02:25 PM	#6
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	[quote]Originally posted by myv65 [b]Stainless steel's heat transfer sucks. That of course is the best reason to avoid the steel radiators. I love it when someone hits right at the core of an issue! Cheers!

10-29-2002, 02:40 PM	#8
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Eh, looks like I stick with PVC. Unfortunately, this'll kill the quick disconnect idea, unless someone knows of a PVC/plastic/nylon version of them. As far as the heater core, I'm just looking for something massive I can use, similar to 15x15 inches ... I'm going to be pumping multiple machines through it. I may need to use multiple smaller ones (most likely). Thanks for the help so far, guys. __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-29-2002, 02:52 PM	#9
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	There are no heatercores in 15 by 15 sizes, that I know of. I can't find 5 by 15, nor 7.5 by 15, but 7.5 by 7.5 is possible. 5 by 5 is also available. I'm first going to point you towards an unusual heatercore: 2-636 It's 9 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 3 3/8 inch. It's from a VW Fox. It's small, compact, but very thick. There's also 2-531, 20 1/2 by 3 1/8 by 2 inch. Ford. Koslov: are you sure that that's not a mistake? The graphs are identical. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-29-2002, 02:55 PM	#10
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	There are plastic quick-disconnects out there, with auto-shut-off. I spec'ed some from NewAgeIndustries.com, but a single set of insert-coupler-plug and cap was about $22. 5601561 - $4.32 per pc, no stock. Lead time is 2-3 wks. 5600385 - $8.41 per pc. In stock. 5602989 - $3.45 per pc. In stock. 5602681 - $7.54 per pc. In stock. Good luck. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-29-2002, 03:16 PM	#11
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Being that the thermal conductivity of Copper is 231 Vs 8.09 and 8.11 for Stainless 304 and 430 respectively, I am having trouble understanding how the performance of the Lytron's heat exchagers are identical, if all other variables other than material are the same. ?? Last edited by hmale; 10-29-2002 at 03:28 PM.

10-29-2002, 03:22 PM	#12
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	I'm looking for a large radiator to use for the whole thing ... something tall and wide and thin that I can bolt a stack of 120s at very low voltage to. I'll have to keep my eyes open. As far as the fittings go, they look like they'd work, but the price is insane ... I'll see if I can find them cheaper somewhere else. Thanks, Ben. __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-29-2002, 03:35 PM	#13
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Check out this shiz: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...Thread+Coupler and http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...Thread+Adaptor Between the two, you can get a set for $8 a pop for 1/2" line, and they auto seal when pulled apart. This could really be helpful for anyone who is constantly f*cking with their system. Imagine having these things on the block itself ... it would make installation easier since you wouldn't have the hoses in the way. For the initial two machines it would only set me back $35 and it'd be worth the reduction in stress, methinks. My question, though, is how sturdy that polypropylene is when using it with the chems we use? Is this similar to PVC or those nylon fittings? __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-29-2002, 03:39 PM	#14
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	F*ck, those don't autoseal. I can still avoid problems with butterfly valves, but blech! I don't know ... I just want a simple and effective way to lock down an area of a coolant loop without spending my retirement savings (however meager that may be). __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-29-2002, 03:41 PM	#15
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Polypropylene is highly chemical resistance...more than enough for use with the chemicals typically used water-cooled systems. Cheers!

10-29-2002, 04:18 PM	#16
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Rawk ... thanks for the input. I was thinking of using 4U cases in an open rack ... I'm starting to rethink that. Rather than spend $70 per cheeeep 4U case and hundreds on the open frame (I can't believe how expensive they are for a do-it-yourself erector set), I'm thinking of building the base in the form of a nightstand like table with a large vent in the front and back. Half would contain the radiator assembly(s) and the other half would be the res and pump. Instead of 4Us, I'm thinking of buying a bunch of Enlight 7200 cases for $40 each (shipped) and just stacking them with stick-on rubber feet mounted on the bottom corners for spacing. If I need extra stability, I'll just make a support frame out of wood or something (but classy). I figure with a nice walnut stained base and a bunch of black painted desktop cases like that, it'd serve the purpose of centralizing the room and looking good without the huge costs. I figure, pump aside (which I'll probably spend over $200 on), I can build the whole thing modularly for about $200 (5ft of 2" PVC, 4xquick disconnect pairs, 30ft 3/8" Tygon, extra WB, heatercore, decent quality wood, stain, bugscreen [for the vents to prevent my box from making weasel paste]) and make it schweet. The idea of a massively tall 6ft tower of 2" clear PVC containing glowy neon green coolant (super efficient air trap and conversation piece) is turning this whole thing into an obsession. What more, I even have my wife interested in it for once. Going off the original topic, what kind of pain would you recommend for computer cases? I've seen some horrible results on some, and awesome results on others. Any type recommended (and I know to rough the surfaces first!)? __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-29-2002, 04:29 PM	#17
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	The best article I have ever seen on case painting is here

10-29-2002, 04:50 PM	#18
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Thanks. Where is a good place to find Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing? I looked at usplastic and it was 6.50/ft!!!!! Anyplace have it under $2/ft? __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

10-30-2002, 06:22 PM	#23
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	But DTek also carries CL60 now: same specs, and cheaper! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

10-30-2002, 08:41 PM	#24
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Cool. I'm looking for a massive radiator now to do this whole thing with. Getting this past my wife will be tough ... she's on to me, methinks. I'm telling her I'm looking for good deals on parts for the future ... I think she suspects that tomorrow is part of the future .... I'm probably going to get a new mobo, proc, and ram (prob a KT3U2/1600+/256PC2700 samsung) for her machine early december (by then I'll have a rad ready), and use her old mobo/proc (athlon 700 slot A and an Epox somethin-o'-other) and some spare parts as a linux firewall/DNS server/Proxy/web server (sparing my gaming machine from sudden disk accesses from people pulling HTTP/FTP off of it from my neighborhood intranet when I'm rawkin' on UT2K3). Once I have her machine upgraded and a radiator in hand, I'm going to sneakily buy some wood and construct a chest-like table with vents in the front and back. Then I'm going to convince her to let me go ahead since the cases, hose, waterblock, and tubing will only be around 150 ... won't it make the room nicer? I'm such a devious bastid it makes me sick. I'm thinking that the black "stereo component" look won't cut it. I may go with some bling-bling and use chrome paint on the front panels .... They'll go nicely with my tower of green coolant. I'm soooo itching to get this ball on the road ... I can't wait to post pics of the whole thing in progress (not to mention DONE). Do you guys think there'd be a market for bling-bling WC rackmount systems? I'm sure some other freak out there would want one .... __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

11-02-2002, 02:02 AM	#25
koslov Cooling Savant Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Posts: 264	So... should I be ok using a stainless steel rad, such as the 4120, with a copper WB if I use some corrosion inhibitor? What would work best for this purpose?

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