New res on market

Blackeagle · 10-29-2002, 05:52 PM

www.case-mod.com

They have a new plexi res designed to go in a 5.25" drive bay. Looks pretty good, made of .25" materials.

Placed in a top bay with a top of case window and it should look kick-ass.

PaperPlate · 10-29-2002, 06:20 PM

Damn I like that...it's either that one or aqua computers now...

Fixittt · 10-31-2002, 04:03 PM

psssttt.....

Dtek has them too

g.l.amour · 10-31-2002, 04:55 PM

thats a nice res for case mods, but not too practical by the looks of it

JokerF15 · 11-02-2002, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by g.l.amour
thats a nice res for case mods, but not too practical by the looks of it

Not practical??!?

Please elaborate..

-JokerF15

DarkEdge · 11-02-2002, 05:05 PM

I've found that many times it would of been convenient to have my res in the drivebays. When I switched to my new cas I actually went to an inline T setup because I couldn't find a palce for my res.

bigdawginva · 11-02-2002, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
psssttt.....

Dtek has them too

Well, considering it was a joint venture of Case-Mod and Dtek I would hope they would as well.

Raccoon · 11-02-2002, 10:01 PM

Well, I ordered one on the 29th, so i should be getting one some time soon, I will let yall know what i think. Of course, I plan on changing to push-to-connect fittings on it, for my system.

MadDogMe · 11-03-2002, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Not practical??!?

Please elaborate..

Access for filling it up?, also having that low a height you'll have to make absolutly sure there's no air in the reservoir or it'll get sucked into the outlet, the inlet will also make bubbles like crazy!. without a fill point that's higher than the 'lid/top' it'll be difficult to get all the air out without tipping your case to move the bubbles...

Also the CD~ROMs produce a fair amount of heat (well mine does

), so the position is'nt the best for thermal placement...

I'd go with a T&fill tube combined airtrap at the highest point myself, with a T&bleed valve at the lowest point...

bigdawginva · 11-03-2002, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
Access for filling it up?, also having that low a height you'll have to make absolutly sure there's no air in the reservoir or it'll get sucked into the outlet, the inlet will also make bubbles like crazy!. without a fill point that's higher than the 'lid/top' it'll be difficult to get all the air out without tipping your case to move the bubbles...

Also the CD~ROMs produce a fair amount of heat (well mine does ), so the position is'nt the best for thermal placement...

I'd go with a T&fill tube combined airtrap at the highest point myself, with a T&bleed valve at the lowest point...

Looks like with the 5 1/4 rails attached that it would slide out a bit and it also appears the fill cap is located up front for easy access once the res is slid out a touch.

Perhaps my res is not indicative but it's not completely air free and no bubbles are sucked into the outlet as they remain at the top and the fittings are near the bottom. I would think as long as the fittings were below the fill point that any air in the res would remain above the fittings at the top. Also, I would think with today's cases there would be ample room to place the res in the top 5 1/4 bay, leave the next one empty or with something that doesn't produce a lot of heat like a fanbus or temp monitor and then CD-ROMs well below the res. I suppose I'm just not seeing as many downsides as others because I'm still new to WC.

g.l.amour · 11-03-2002, 10:34 AM

a res doesn't need alot of surface, width and length. the greater the height the easier.

as i say, the res could look great, with some dye lite and some neon. but the function of airtrap .... dunno.

edit; btw; with a low flow system the air will stay on top. but if u got alot of flow, it will get nasty and turbulant in that res.

MadDogMe · 11-03-2002, 11:54 AM

Quote:

I would think as long as the fittings were below the fill point that any air in the res would remain above the fittings at the top.

No, it's like when you empty the bath (ifif you bath!

), you get a Vortex/whirlpool that'll suck air down into it, worse with a stronger pump!. or that's what would happen if the inlet was'nt washing in and creating a maelstrom of bubbles that'll get sucked in as well!.
The probs' are'nt insurmountable, but then I'm biased, I just don't see the point in a Reservoir anyway :shrug: , what benifit does it have over a fillpoint~airtrap?, plus I think you loose some of the push~pull advantage of the inline system if there is air present,(note: I'd fill the airtrap with water after air~bleeding)...

Horses for Courses though ain't it?...

JokerF15 · 11-03-2002, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
Access for filling it up?, also having that low a height you'll have to make absolutly sure there's no air in the reservoir or it'll get sucked into the outlet, the inlet will also make bubbles like crazy!. without a fill point that's higher than the 'lid/top' it'll be difficult to get all the air out without tipping your case to move the bubbles...

Also the CD~ROMs produce a fair amount of heat (well mine does ), so the position is'nt the best for thermal placement...

I'd go with a T&fill tube combined airtrap at the highest point myself, with a T&bleed valve at the lowest point...

Filling it up: I don't know if you read the description, there is a fill hole/plug located towards the front of the Bay-Res. You can actually fill your whole system by sliding the Res out 1/2'' - 1'' and using a 1/4'' NPT x any size barb (and connecting some tube to the barb, and use a funnel to fill it) or just using a funnel into the hole. The Plug has an O-ring seal, so no leaking

.

As long as the Water Level is above the 1/4-1/2 of the Res, no air will go into the system. Even if the water level drops, air does not easily get sucked in to the system. The water is sucked in first. Trust me, I tried it. So did Danny @ Dtek. Air will remain above the water, the res acts similar to the T. The Water will always be below the air, that's just nature

.

Thermal Placement?!?: Acrylic is an INSULATOR of heat, not a conductor. CD-rom's don't get hot enough to make Acrylic a conductor of heat. If CD-Rom's put out that much heat, why don't people worry about them and put fans near them?

-JokerF15

Joe · 11-03-2002, 01:38 PM

moving this to the general watercooling stuff.

bigdawginva · 11-03-2002, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JokerF15
Filling it up: I don't know if you read the description, there is a fill hole/plug located towards the front of the Bay-Res. You can actually fill your whole system by sliding the Res out 1/2'' - 1'' and using a 1/4'' NPT x any size barb (and connecting some tube to the barb, and use a funnel to fill it) or just using a funnel into the hole. The Plug has an O-ring seal, so no leaking .

As long as the Water Level is above the 1/4-1/2 of the Res, no air will go into the system. Even if the water level drops, air does not easily get sucked in to the system. The water is sucked in first. Trust me, I tried it. So did Danny @ Dtek. Air will remain above the water, the res acts similar to the T. The Water will always be below the air, that's just nature .

Thermal Placement?!?: Acrylic is an INSULATOR of heat, not a conductor. CD-rom's don't get hot enough to make Acrylic a conductor of heat. If CD-Rom's put out that much heat, why don't people worry about them and put fans near them?

-JokerF15

Glad to know I was on track. Maybe I'm starting to get a handle on all this WC stuff although I enjoyed reading your explanations better than mine.

MadDogMe · 11-04-2002, 03:09 AM

Quote:

Filling it up: I don't know if you read the description, there is a fill hole/plug located towards the front of the Bay-Res. You can actually fill your whole system by sliding the Res out 1/2'' - 1'' and using a 1/4'' NPT x any size barb (and connecting some tube to the barb, and use a funnel to fill it) or just using a funnel into the hole. The Plug has an O-ring seal, so no leaking .

I'd prefer to leave a tube connected, rather than moving it, also you could fill the tube to the top and get rid of all air in the res...

I'm not knocking the res, I'm not saying it's a dead horse. it'll work fine as long as you don't leave alot of air in it (IMO

), when I first thought of a res this was my first idea, I'm surprised one has'nt been made before. I bet they sell like crazy, but , as with everything, there are negatives. If you must have a res, the positives outway the offset though...

JokerF15 · 11-04-2002, 03:16 AM

Here's some pics of how the res looks actually working. Not my system, but a close friend =D.

Notice that the water doesn't stay 'still' it moves around a LOT. Within 10 minutes of installing the Res, all bubbles were out of the system. Or all noticeable bubbles. Air doesn't go through, since the water does move around quiet a lot.

-JokerF15

Yo-DUH_87 · 11-04-2002, 09:29 AM

That is a nice looking res, if I ever went to watercooling...

Would look good with a few UV leds in it

bigben2k · 11-04-2002, 10:21 AM

I've got a mod in mind for it...

As posted here

In short, I'd add tubes inside, so that the flow can be put into a side to side movement, eliminating turbulence. Blue LEDs are a must too!

10-29-2002, 05:52 PM	#1
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	New res on market www.case-mod.com They have a new plexi res designed to go in a 5.25" drive bay. Looks pretty good, made of .25" materials. Placed in a top bay with a top of case window and it should look kick-ass.

10-31-2002, 04:03 PM	#3
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	psssttt..... Dtek has them too __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

11-03-2002, 01:38 PM	#14
Joe The Pro/Life Support System Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 4,041	moving this to the general watercooling stuff. __________________ Joe - I only take this hat off for one thing... ProCooling archive curator and dusty skeleton.

11-04-2002, 09:29 AM	#18
Yo-DUH_87 Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Oregon, USA Posts: 230	That is a nice looking res, if I ever went to watercooling... Would look good with a few UV leds in it __________________ Signing out... Yo-DUH_87 If it works, fix it until it's broke! Then, after it's broke, add duct tape! Affordable webhosting!

10-29-2002, 06:20 PM	#2
PaperPlate Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Michigan, USA Posts: 19	Damn I like that...it's either that one or aqua computers now...

10-31-2002, 04:55 PM	#4
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	thats a nice res for case mods, but not too practical by the looks of it

11-02-2002, 05:05 PM	#6
DarkEdge Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sugar Land, Tx Posts: 176	I've found that many times it would of been convenient to have my res in the drivebays. When I switched to my new cas I actually went to an inline T setup because I couldn't find a palce for my res.

11-02-2002, 10:01 PM	#8
Raccoon Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 37	Well, I ordered one on the 29th, so i should be getting one some time soon, I will let yall know what i think. Of course, I plan on changing to push-to-connect fittings on it, for my system.

11-03-2002, 10:34 AM	#11
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	a res doesn't need alot of surface, width and length. the greater the height the easier. as i say, the res could look great, with some dye lite and some neon. but the function of airtrap .... dunno. edit; btw; with a low flow system the air will stay on top. but if u got alot of flow, it will get nasty and turbulant in that res.

11-04-2002, 03:16 AM	#17
JokerF15 Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 9	Here's some pics of how the res looks actually working. Not my system, but a close friend =D. Notice that the water doesn't stay 'still' it moves around a LOT. Within 10 minutes of installing the Res, all bubbles were out of the system. Or all noticeable bubbles. Air doesn't go through, since the water does move around quiet a lot. -JokerF15

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