Got the bug, first chiller setup.

Danger-Darryn · 11-26-2002, 10:14 AM

New (or noob??) project just started....

Got phase changing system complete from a 6 foot chest freezer (courtesty of local tip/scrap) and took to it with a crowbar, pliers and a set of tin snips.
4 hours later (after alot of bleeding from the hands

) the whole system was removed from the chest without discharging the R12!!!!! (There's 88 foot of evap coil in that bastard thing!)
Looking at the cooling coil, I guessed I'd have to cut it down to size, but me being very skint (and lazy) I thought I would just fold it all up and avoid paying for a recharge. Finally got the whole lot down into an old scuba kit box after alot of bending. The tubing resisted kinking remarkably well!

Any how.......

Filled it up with tap water and 1 litre of glycol and set it off running about 30 minutes ago. I don't have any temps at the mo (left temp probe in work

) but it's icying up good and propper. (And before anyone starts ranting about the use of tap water, this is only for testing, when I'm happy with it I'll replace it with distilled, K?!!)

My question is, which waterblocks to mate it all up to? I'm putting it all onto a P4 1.8a and Geforce 4 Ti4200, no pelts, but I am looking for some out-of-the-box insulation for both blocks (like the Swiftech). This P4 will already do 2749MHz on air without and VMODs, but I am hoping for a few more Hz. Comming in the post shortly is an Eniem 1260 and a dosen or so meters of 1/2" hosing.

airspirit · 11-26-2002, 12:36 PM

Holy crap! That is a beast. Use the best regular WC block you can find for your flow rate. Depending on how cold that thing will get the water, you may be best off with a high flow system and a high flow block, since the water will be very cold entering the block. Alternatively, (my judgement), try a Cathar block combined with a 500 GPH pump and you'll be happy with the results.

g.l.amour · 11-26-2002, 12:45 PM

waw , talking 'bout some ghetto stuff. awesome

Danger-Darryn · 11-26-2002, 01:04 PM

OK, so the previous post looked ghetto? Well it's now looking organic!!! Me thinks me needs some o' that UV toobing and get it lit up

Wife now bugging me to do something useful

See what it's like tomorrow

Cova · 11-26-2002, 01:14 PM

You need to put a mixer of some type in that tub, and I don't think a little submersible aquarium pump is going to do it. I've got a similar cooler here (that I haven't had time to build into a computer yet) that actually uses ice to cool the water (I don't think you have any evaporator left un-frozen, so really you are using ice to cool the water too, and the chiller to make the ice). Anways - the device I have has the evaporator in a bucket with a prop at the very bottom, and a long shaft running up out of the top to where a motor is mounted centered over it all - think of a ceiling fan in a house but with the fan on a long axle and hovering just over the floor - it mixes up the contents and I can actually get water (yes, just water, no antifreeze or anything) at a few degrees below freezing - same thing as when the center of the river doesn't freeze in winter, fast moving water can stay liquid a few degrees longer. I think if you can find a strong enough stir-er you should be able to get at least another 5 degrees out of the water-temp (assuming you measure temp at some random unfrozen spot, not put the thermometer right on the block of ice)

Danger-Darryn · 11-26-2002, 01:31 PM

I understand that but this system (and your system??) is unloaded. I have looked at another chiller on a smaller scale that did the same trick (somewhere on overclockers.com, not that I can find it now

, ice formed on the evap when the cpu was idle and melted upon load. In his words, this was another form of phase change ( I suppose he is right!!! ).

Can anyone say if the evap coil is too large for the task and therefore inefficient???

LOL, the wife thought I had bought some sort of water eel !!! Looks life something from the Abyss to me!

BTW Warburtons is a registered trademark of which I have nothing to do with!!

Danger-Darryn · 11-26-2002, 01:57 PM

Ahha!! http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~mb1/wc35.htm

So it's not on overclockers.com, ahhwell.

Having a problem getting the temp sensor on the thermostat to work, it used to be mounted at the last loop of the evap inside an idential tube with some sort of foil tape wrapped around the pair of them. It used to work in the assembled freezer

. Only tried standard HTC and some tinfoil at the mo, but to no avail, it's now mounted at the begining of the evap coil and still not working

I don't fancy having the compressor running 24/7, overkill, heat and BANG!!! spring to mind.

Cova · 11-27-2002, 10:22 AM

Well my chiller originally had a somewhat different purpose, and a different control method (no thermostat), which adapts much easier to my plans. It was actually designed to build up an ice-bank over the coils, and it has a sensor that can detect how thick the layer of ice is. When the ice gets to be about 1.5" thick the compressor shuts off, and when the ice is back to to about .5" the compressor turns back on. The thing was originally a Pepsi fountain-machine if anyone else decides to try and get/mod one.

As for a thermostat-based controller, I'm not sure how to go about modding it to work in a similar way. Probably easiest to find a location somewhere in your system that has a temp similar to what the inside of the freezer used to run at, and just keep the original thermostat. On the other hand, the wires coming out of the thermostat to the compressor should be as simple as an on-off switch, so if you aren't worried about variable control it should be easy to build a circuit that turns on (likely closes the wires) when more cooling is needed. I don't know enough about electronics to build one from scratch (I'd get the wrong resistors and stuff probably, or miss some important connection), but I can give a basic idea and there are people around here that can fill in the details for a simple one:

Get a thermistor with a waterproof end, that goes into the coolant (preferably near where pump inlet will be), run a constant voltage into it, and have a comparor on the other side. The other input of the comparor will be the same constant voltage running through a resistor (I don't know what size though). The thermistors resistance changes with it's temp so whenever the thermistor-side voltage is higher the compressor needs to be on (or perhaps the other way around, again get better details from someone else). Anyways - the output of the comparor you can just hook to a relay or something that closes the circuit that the thermistor was originally connected to - that should do it.

Danger-Darryn · 11-27-2002, 10:49 AM

Yea, that shouldn't be a problem. I'll have a look around for a simple circuit (Vellamans??)

I'll look around the workshop for a 12v minature DC supply, we should have a few less then 3"x3"x2"

Any money spent on building a thermostat will be saved on the electricity bills!!

Danger-Darryn · 11-27-2002, 11:11 AM

Frost alarm, it ain't rocket science.

http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Ci...ing/coldsw.htm

8-Ball · 11-28-2002, 03:34 AM

Out of curiosity, how much would a recharge cost?

Danger-Darryn · 11-28-2002, 05:31 AM

I don't know, but because it costs I'm going to stay away from the idea. Check your Yellow pages.

11-26-2002, 10:14 AM	#1
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	Got the bug, first chiller setup. New (or noob??) project just started.... Got phase changing system complete from a 6 foot chest freezer (courtesty of local tip/scrap) and took to it with a crowbar, pliers and a set of tin snips. 4 hours later (after alot of bleeding from the hands ) the whole system was removed from the chest without discharging the R12!!!!! (There's 88 foot of evap coil in that bastard thing!) Looking at the cooling coil, I guessed I'd have to cut it down to size, but me being very skint (and lazy) I thought I would just fold it all up and avoid paying for a recharge. Finally got the whole lot down into an old scuba kit box after alot of bending. The tubing resisted kinking remarkably well! Any how....... Filled it up with tap water and 1 litre of glycol and set it off running about 30 minutes ago. I don't have any temps at the mo (left temp probe in work ) but it's icying up good and propper. (And before anyone starts ranting about the use of tap water, this is only for testing, when I'm happy with it I'll replace it with distilled, K?!!) My question is, which waterblocks to mate it all up to? I'm putting it all onto a P4 1.8a and Geforce 4 Ti4200, no pelts, but I am looking for some out-of-the-box insulation for both blocks (like the Swiftech). This P4 will already do 2749MHz on air without and VMODs, but I am hoping for a few more Hz. Comming in the post shortly is an Eniem 1260 and a dosen or so meters of 1/2" hosing.

11-26-2002, 12:36 PM	#2
airspirit Been /.'d... have you? Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Moscow, ID Posts: 1,986	Holy crap! That is a beast. Use the best regular WC block you can find for your flow rate. Depending on how cold that thing will get the water, you may be best off with a high flow system and a high flow block, since the water will be very cold entering the block. Alternatively, (my judgement), try a Cathar block combined with a 500 GPH pump and you'll be happy with the results. __________________ #!/bin/sh {who;} {last;} {pause;} {grep;} {touch;} {unzip;} mount /dev/girl -t {wet;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} {fsck;} echo yes yes yes {yes;} umount {/dev/girl;zip;} rm -rf {wet.spot;} {sleep;} finger: permission denied

11-26-2002, 12:45 PM	#3
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	waw , talking 'bout some ghetto stuff. awesome __________________ yo soy un tiburón

11-26-2002, 01:04 PM	#4
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	OK, so the previous post looked ghetto? Well it's now looking organic!!! Me thinks me needs some o' that UV toobing and get it lit up Wife now bugging me to do something useful See what it's like tomorrow

11-26-2002, 01:14 PM	#5
Cova Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 247	You need to put a mixer of some type in that tub, and I don't think a little submersible aquarium pump is going to do it. I've got a similar cooler here (that I haven't had time to build into a computer yet) that actually uses ice to cool the water (I don't think you have any evaporator left un-frozen, so really you are using ice to cool the water too, and the chiller to make the ice). Anways - the device I have has the evaporator in a bucket with a prop at the very bottom, and a long shaft running up out of the top to where a motor is mounted centered over it all - think of a ceiling fan in a house but with the fan on a long axle and hovering just over the floor - it mixes up the contents and I can actually get water (yes, just water, no antifreeze or anything) at a few degrees below freezing - same thing as when the center of the river doesn't freeze in winter, fast moving water can stay liquid a few degrees longer. I think if you can find a strong enough stir-er you should be able to get at least another 5 degrees out of the water-temp (assuming you measure temp at some random unfrozen spot, not put the thermometer right on the block of ice)

11-26-2002, 01:31 PM	#6
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	I understand that but this system (and your system??) is unloaded. I have looked at another chiller on a smaller scale that did the same trick (somewhere on overclockers.com, not that I can find it now , ice formed on the evap when the cpu was idle and melted upon load. In his words, this was another form of phase change ( I suppose he is right!!! ). Can anyone say if the evap coil is too large for the task and therefore inefficient??? LOL, the wife thought I had bought some sort of water eel !!! Looks life something from the Abyss to me! BTW Warburtons is a registered trademark of which I have nothing to do with!!

11-26-2002, 01:57 PM	#7
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	Ahha!! http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~mb1/wc35.htm So it's not on overclockers.com, ahhwell. Having a problem getting the temp sensor on the thermostat to work, it used to be mounted at the last loop of the evap inside an idential tube with some sort of foil tape wrapped around the pair of them. It used to work in the assembled freezer . Only tried standard HTC and some tinfoil at the mo, but to no avail, it's now mounted at the begining of the evap coil and still not working I don't fancy having the compressor running 24/7, overkill, heat and BANG!!! spring to mind.

11-27-2002, 10:22 AM	#8
Cova Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 247	Well my chiller originally had a somewhat different purpose, and a different control method (no thermostat), which adapts much easier to my plans. It was actually designed to build up an ice-bank over the coils, and it has a sensor that can detect how thick the layer of ice is. When the ice gets to be about 1.5" thick the compressor shuts off, and when the ice is back to to about .5" the compressor turns back on. The thing was originally a Pepsi fountain-machine if anyone else decides to try and get/mod one. As for a thermostat-based controller, I'm not sure how to go about modding it to work in a similar way. Probably easiest to find a location somewhere in your system that has a temp similar to what the inside of the freezer used to run at, and just keep the original thermostat. On the other hand, the wires coming out of the thermostat to the compressor should be as simple as an on-off switch, so if you aren't worried about variable control it should be easy to build a circuit that turns on (likely closes the wires) when more cooling is needed. I don't know enough about electronics to build one from scratch (I'd get the wrong resistors and stuff probably, or miss some important connection), but I can give a basic idea and there are people around here that can fill in the details for a simple one: Get a thermistor with a waterproof end, that goes into the coolant (preferably near where pump inlet will be), run a constant voltage into it, and have a comparor on the other side. The other input of the comparor will be the same constant voltage running through a resistor (I don't know what size though). The thermistors resistance changes with it's temp so whenever the thermistor-side voltage is higher the compressor needs to be on (or perhaps the other way around, again get better details from someone else). Anyways - the output of the comparor you can just hook to a relay or something that closes the circuit that the thermistor was originally connected to - that should do it.

11-27-2002, 10:49 AM	#9
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	Yea, that shouldn't be a problem. I'll have a look around for a simple circuit (Vellamans??) I'll look around the workshop for a 12v minature DC supply, we should have a few less then 3"x3"x2" Any money spent on building a thermostat will be saved on the electricity bills!!

11-27-2002, 11:11 AM	#10
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	Frost alarm, it ain't rocket science. http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Ci...ing/coldsw.htm

11-28-2002, 03:34 AM	#11
8-Ball Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Oxford University, UK Posts: 452	Out of curiosity, how much would a recharge cost?

11-28-2002, 05:31 AM	#12
Danger-Darryn Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Liverpool, UK Posts: 40	I don't know, but because it costs I'm going to stay away from the idea. Check your Yellow pages.

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