??Who Ever Had Condensation/Slime on WaterBlock??

Sproket · 03-14-2003, 05:24 PM

Im curious who ever has had condensation or slime on there WaterBlock? If so what type of block are you using.

How did you correct it?
or
How can you prevent it?

Thank You.

TerraMex · 03-14-2003, 06:21 PM

Well, i havent, but i know a few thing on how to stop part of it.

Depending on how methodic you want to be, there are several steps you can take, but some are overkill , imo.

Condensation usually doesnt occur on a normal watercooled system. Only in a peltier system , phase change, waterchiller... etc.

You can... :

- Isolate the interior of the socket with silicone
- Use foam in the back of the motherboard.
- Isolate the waterblock and socket by using foam , covering the block, and the socket.
- Use foam to isolate the tubing.
- Use varnish or clearcoat, non conductive, and spraying the motherboard (being careful not to spread on the slots, pins, sound , usb , etc, exits ; and north and south bridges).

Slime :

Some of the slime is corrosion, or precipitation of minerals.

- Use distilled or deionized water.
- Use antifreeze. They also keep the goo from showing up (or water wetter) , and try not to mix metals in the setup (all copper would be nice)

Sproket · 03-14-2003, 07:20 PM

Im planning on using White Water block w. D-Tek Rad.
I was thinking of removing the brass barbs from the Rad and replacing them with Poly Barbs from Dtek.
This should give me only one metal in cooling system loop.
Unless there will be something or some other metal introduced by the Ehiem 1048 pump.

TerraMex · 03-14-2003, 07:46 PM

The eheim doesnt use metal parts for the propeller and casing, so you dont have that type of problem.

Going for Poly barbs is a good option, but the brass has alot of copper in it, so even if you dont change them, i dont think it'll be a problem.

Sproket · 03-14-2003, 08:44 PM

I spoke to Danny at Dtek and he said that the poly actually have a little higher flow rate. Not that you may notice but the innerhole is a little bigger.

There only 99 cents so who cares I will get them just b/c to try.

PsyKoRealm · 03-15-2003, 01:31 AM

Well i've never had slime but condensation is always a plus to me. (kinda) As Long as you FOAM the hell outta the block with closed cell foam to should be cool. Cause if that condensation turns to water and there isn't foam to aboarb it then sh*t will hit the fan and it's all down hill from there.

If you are getting low enough temps to make snow cones kodos to you my man. Clock that baby like there's no tomarrow.

As far as going to POLY barbs. awww, In my honest opinion I dont' think you'll notice a great deal of system integity improved. Stick with the strength of the brass and just make sure your liquid is clean at all times. Clean water give much added life to your rig, did 2 mine. More than switch'n a couple of nipples.

MadDogMe · 03-15-2003, 03:38 AM

Insulating a block with neoprene is'nt done to 'soak up' the water, it's done to prevent air, which carries moisture, coming into contact with the cold surfaces of a TEC/Peltier~cooled/chilled~water waterblock. Moisture carried on the will condense and form droplets which will bugger your rig

(WW is'nt suitable IMO for TEC cooling)...

You don't need to worry about condensation if you use a 'straight' H2o solution of 'block, rad, and pump'...

What do you mean by 'slime'?, algae green natural growth?, or WaterWetter residue?...

I've not gotten any aldae slime in my rig yet, it's been running on tap water for six~nine months now, no 'clouding' either...

Sproket · 03-15-2003, 10:17 AM

It will just be a straight water system.
In the future when I get more money maybe TEC/Pelt, shoot maybe even vapor cooling.
Who knows.

What block would reccomend for TEC/Pelt?

PsyKoRealm · 03-15-2003, 04:27 PM

Of course you use foam to prevent any moisture from reaching the cold block, but think about it, it's dual purpose. When those temps rise and that consendation turn to water then what. Drip Drip Drip. Using lots of foam help to prevent water from dripping everywhere. Think about it!

MadDogMe · 03-16-2003, 03:49 AM

Duh Duh...

Think about it some more!, neoprene is 'CLOSED CELL', airtight and watertight, not gonna soak up much water eh?. the idea is to STOP AIR hitting the cold surface and forming WATER, by condensing, therby having , No drip, No drip, No drip...

You think having a wet~sponge on your PC is a good idea?

...

Peace dude!...

MadDogMe · 03-16-2003, 04:04 AM

Sproket, Using poly barbs is'nt necisary at all, Brass is'nt thatdisimular from copper, not enough to make corrosion promblematic, (or even noticable). But then again brass is'nt needed for strenght in H2o rigs, it's more for airhose pressure or chemical/petroleum usage. Anything that overcomes the inherant restriction of 'Barbs' should be used, if they have a bigger i/d then use them. I'd solder copper 13mm pipe to my rad personaly, huge 13mm i/d for flow!

...

*********************************

A PS to PR,

Quote:

When those temps rise and that consendation turn to water then what. Drip Drip Drip.

Condensation only happens at low temps, when the temp rises it called evaporation...

03-14-2003, 05:24 PM	#1
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	??Who Ever Had Condensation/Slime on WaterBlock?? Im curious who ever has had condensation or slime on there WaterBlock? If so what type of block are you using. How did you correct it? or How can you prevent it? Thank You. __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

03-14-2003, 06:21 PM	#2
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	Well, i havent, but i know a few thing on how to stop part of it. Depending on how methodic you want to be, there are several steps you can take, but some are overkill , imo. Condensation usually doesnt occur on a normal watercooled system. Only in a peltier system , phase change, waterchiller... etc. You can... : - Isolate the interior of the socket with silicone - Use foam in the back of the motherboard. - Isolate the waterblock and socket by using foam , covering the block, and the socket. - Use foam to isolate the tubing. - Use varnish or clearcoat, non conductive, and spraying the motherboard (being careful not to spread on the slots, pins, sound , usb , etc, exits ; and north and south bridges). Slime : Some of the slime is corrosion, or precipitation of minerals. - Use distilled or deionized water. - Use antifreeze. They also keep the goo from showing up (or water wetter) , and try not to mix metals in the setup (all copper would be nice) __________________ "we need more cowbell."

03-14-2003, 07:20 PM	#3
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	Im planning on using White Water block w. D-Tek Rad. I was thinking of removing the brass barbs from the Rad and replacing them with Poly Barbs from Dtek. This should give me only one metal in cooling system loop. Unless there will be something or some other metal introduced by the Ehiem 1048 pump. __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

03-14-2003, 07:46 PM	#4
TerraMex Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Portugal, Europe Posts: 870	The eheim doesnt use metal parts for the propeller and casing, so you dont have that type of problem. Going for Poly barbs is a good option, but the brass has alot of copper in it, so even if you dont change them, i dont think it'll be a problem. __________________ "we need more cowbell."

03-14-2003, 08:44 PM	#5
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	I spoke to Danny at Dtek and he said that the poly actually have a little higher flow rate. Not that you may notice but the innerhole is a little bigger. There only 99 cents so who cares I will get them just b/c to try. __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

03-15-2003, 01:31 AM	#6
PsyKoRealm Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: UC Santa Barbara, CA Posts: 38	SLIME?? Well i've never had slime but condensation is always a plus to me. (kinda) As Long as you FOAM the hell outta the block with closed cell foam to should be cool. Cause if that condensation turns to water and there isn't foam to aboarb it then sh*t will hit the fan and it's all down hill from there. If you are getting low enough temps to make snow cones kodos to you my man. Clock that baby like there's no tomarrow. As far as going to POLY barbs. awww, In my honest opinion I dont' think you'll notice a great deal of system integity improved. Stick with the strength of the brass and just make sure your liquid is clean at all times. Clean water give much added life to your rig, did 2 mine. More than switch'n a couple of nipples. __________________ Athlon T-Bird XP 1700+ (1.43@2.0) PURE HSF BABY!!!!!!! EPOX NForce2 EP-8RDA 256MB DDR400 300w PSU 20GIG Western Digital 40GIG Quantum Fireball MSI Gefore 4 Ti4200 @ 280 / 610 48X Lite-On @ 52X Fireware Flash 16X DVD SBLive! Value 10/100 LAN Zalman HSF

03-15-2003, 03:38 AM	#7
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Insulating a block with neoprene is'nt done to 'soak up' the water, it's done to prevent air, which carries moisture, coming into contact with the cold surfaces of a TEC/Peltier~cooled/chilled~water waterblock. Moisture carried on the will condense and form droplets which will bugger your rig (WW is'nt suitable IMO for TEC cooling)... You don't need to worry about condensation if you use a 'straight' H2o solution of 'block, rad, and pump'... What do you mean by 'slime'?, algae green natural growth?, or WaterWetter residue?... I've not gotten any aldae slime in my rig yet, it's been running on tap water for six~nine months now, no 'clouding' either...

03-15-2003, 10:17 AM	#8
Sproket Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 193	It will just be a straight water system. In the future when I get more money maybe TEC/Pelt, shoot maybe even vapor cooling. Who knows. What block would reccomend for TEC/Pelt? __________________ NF7-S Bios D1.8 218FSB X 11.5 1700+ DLT3C 0310 @ 2511Mhz TwinMos 2x256 PC3200 BH-5 Albatron TI4800se 310/643 3dmark 15,110 3DMark2001SE Link

03-15-2003, 04:27 PM	#9
PsyKoRealm Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: UC Santa Barbara, CA Posts: 38	duh Of course you use foam to prevent any moisture from reaching the cold block, but think about it, it's dual purpose. When those temps rise and that consendation turn to water then what. Drip Drip Drip. Using lots of foam help to prevent water from dripping everywhere. Think about it! __________________ Athlon T-Bird XP 1700+ (1.43@2.0) PURE HSF BABY!!!!!!! EPOX NForce2 EP-8RDA 256MB DDR400 300w PSU 20GIG Western Digital 40GIG Quantum Fireball MSI Gefore 4 Ti4200 @ 280 / 610 48X Lite-On @ 52X Fireware Flash 16X DVD SBLive! Value 10/100 LAN Zalman HSF

03-16-2003, 03:49 AM	#10
MadDogMe Thermophile Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Just shut up ;) ... Posts: 1,068	Duh Duh... Think about it some more!, neoprene is 'CLOSED CELL', airtight and watertight, not gonna soak up much water eh?. the idea is to STOP AIR hitting the cold surface and forming WATER, by condensing, therby having , No drip, No drip, No drip... You think having a wet~sponge on your PC is a good idea? ... Peace dude!...

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