MCP300 Died, almost lost everything, need a replacement pronto

h4rm0nix · 07-27-2003, 09:23 PM

Well, that about sums it up. My nice MCP300 was rolling along then..whamo, full stop.

I only noticed when a make -j5 kernel build went through the roof, thank god for lmsensors.

So, here I am over on the old computer trying to figure out what to do. I took out all the W/C stuff and replaced the tubing (needed it anyway), and then attempted to power up the pump again. Nothing.

So I went ahead and opened the pump up, nothing in there blocking anything, so I put it back together and this time it powered up..for a time.

While I was walking through the fill/bleed process it froze on me again, now it won't restart at all.

This has almost made me want to dump all the WC stuff and admit defeat. (Which means marking a couple hundred bucks as sunk cost Ouch!)

So I'm stuck, trying to figure out since either I get a new pump, or put my twin Xeons on air, I need to figure out what to get.

I've gone through all the forums postings I could find on the subject, however nothing seemed to answer this question..

I had a 100% swiftech system, I was enjoying using those quick connects for everything, is it possible to get another pump with 1/2 OD (3/8 ID) quick connects for both inlet and outlet?

If not, is there something relatively pain free I can use?

Or quite honestly am I better off dumping the WC until I've got more time to work on it.

Thanks!

H

SCompRacer · 07-27-2003, 10:28 PM

Sorry to hear of your trouble. Did you contact Swiftech to let them know?

I'm not aware of any other pump that comes with those pushlock fittings. Swiftech uses John Guest Speedfit fittings which are available in NPT and BSP pipe threads. Once you know what type threads are in the replacement pump (and if they are available), you could order the correct fittings for it and screw them in.

Another manufacturer by the name of Watts makes similar pushlock fittings for 1/2" OD hose though I don't know what thread types they offer. The PL-3035 I picked up has is 3/8" male NPT. The ID of the male threads matches the 3/8" ID of the hose. They are white instead of grey and have a larger flange so you can release them with your fingers instead of using that plastic tool. I picked one up at Home Depot to use on my reservoir as I have one system I wanted to retain the push lock fittings on.

Or you could simply use barb fittings in the pump and push the hose over it. By heating the 3/8" ID hose, you can get it over a 1/2" barb fitting.

h4rm0nix · 07-28-2003, 10:35 AM

I've got a call in with FrozenCPU to get either credit or a refund.

What's your take on the Eheim 1046VDC pump, that one might work for me (dimensions), however is it really decent power?

Thanks

H

pHaestus · 07-28-2003, 10:40 AM

Also consider the Hydor L20 for small spaces. I have one in my lil PC-50 now and I have been pretty happy with it. It's quite small.

h4rm0nix · 07-28-2003, 04:21 PM

pHeastus, Thanks for the input, since I've got your attention I was wondering if there ever was a final verdict as to the best mixture for...

cooling

anti-biotic

safe for tubes and pumps

I've read lots of threads but haven't been able to get a solid verdict..

Thanks, I will look into the Hydor, does it run hot?

H

bigben2k · 07-28-2003, 04:28 PM

I'd like to hear how this is going to get resolved, and what the manufacturer has to say, about this pump. Every post I've seen about them casts a doubtful eye on the pump. Maybe it's bad, but then maybe it's just as good as the Johnson pump, and simply needs a bit of ventilation.:shrug:

h4rm0nix · 07-28-2003, 05:42 PM

I'm not a fan anymore.

It ran very hot.

Never could get it silent, always a small tick here and there.

Plus just shut down and will not restart.

I'm just trying to determine what's the next best option, I've gone to A/Cooling for the time being, then once I've got a free weekend I'll put the water blocks back in and try again..

Anyone done much with these blueline HD Pumps?

H

bigben2k · 07-28-2003, 06:02 PM

I think you'll like the L20, but not the L30: it also runs hot.

h4rm0nix · 07-28-2003, 06:22 PM

Hmm, I've got two procs and a Dtek rad, will the L20 give enough love?

thanks..

H

bigben2k · 07-28-2003, 06:37 PM

http://www.dangerden.com/images/hydor/Hydor_L2030.pdf

You've got a couple of MCW5000, right?

http://www.overclockers.com/articles720/

That should be fine, but you might want to consider two of these pumps. The difference might be negligeable though.

07-27-2003, 09:23 PM	#1
h4rm0nix Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 45	MCP300 Died, almost lost everything, need a replacement pronto Well, that about sums it up. My nice MCP300 was rolling along then..whamo, full stop. I only noticed when a make -j5 kernel build went through the roof, thank god for lmsensors. So, here I am over on the old computer trying to figure out what to do. I took out all the W/C stuff and replaced the tubing (needed it anyway), and then attempted to power up the pump again. Nothing. So I went ahead and opened the pump up, nothing in there blocking anything, so I put it back together and this time it powered up..for a time. While I was walking through the fill/bleed process it froze on me again, now it won't restart at all. This has almost made me want to dump all the WC stuff and admit defeat. (Which means marking a couple hundred bucks as sunk cost Ouch!) So I'm stuck, trying to figure out since either I get a new pump, or put my twin Xeons on air, I need to figure out what to get. I've gone through all the forums postings I could find on the subject, however nothing seemed to answer this question.. I had a 100% swiftech system, I was enjoying using those quick connects for everything, is it possible to get another pump with 1/2 OD (3/8 ID) quick connects for both inlet and outlet? If not, is there something relatively pain free I can use? Or quite honestly am I better off dumping the WC until I've got more time to work on it. Thanks! H

07-28-2003, 04:28 PM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'd like to hear how this is going to get resolved, and what the manufacturer has to say, about this pump. Every post I've seen about them casts a doubtful eye on the pump. Maybe it's bad, but then maybe it's just as good as the Johnson pump, and simply needs a bit of ventilation.:shrug: __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-28-2003, 06:02 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I think you'll like the L20, but not the L30: it also runs hot. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-28-2003, 06:37 PM	#10
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	http://www.dangerden.com/images/hydor/Hydor_L2030.pdf You've got a couple of MCW5000, right? http://www.overclockers.com/articles720/ That should be fine, but you might want to consider two of these pumps. The difference might be negligeable though. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-27-2003, 10:28 PM	#2
SCompRacer Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 94	Sorry to hear of your trouble. Did you contact Swiftech to let them know? I'm not aware of any other pump that comes with those pushlock fittings. Swiftech uses John Guest Speedfit fittings which are available in NPT and BSP pipe threads. Once you know what type threads are in the replacement pump (and if they are available), you could order the correct fittings for it and screw them in. Another manufacturer by the name of Watts makes similar pushlock fittings for 1/2" OD hose though I don't know what thread types they offer. The PL-3035 I picked up has is 3/8" male NPT. The ID of the male threads matches the 3/8" ID of the hose. They are white instead of grey and have a larger flange so you can release them with your fingers instead of using that plastic tool. I picked one up at Home Depot to use on my reservoir as I have one system I wanted to retain the push lock fittings on. Or you could simply use barb fittings in the pump and push the hose over it. By heating the 3/8" ID hose, you can get it over a 1/2" barb fitting.

07-28-2003, 10:35 AM	#3
h4rm0nix Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 45	I've got a call in with FrozenCPU to get either credit or a refund. What's your take on the Eheim 1046VDC pump, that one might work for me (dimensions), however is it really decent power? Thanks H

07-28-2003, 10:40 AM	#4
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	Also consider the Hydor L20 for small spaces. I have one in my lil PC-50 now and I have been pretty happy with it. It's quite small.

07-28-2003, 04:21 PM	#5
h4rm0nix Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 45	pHeastus, Thanks for the input, since I've got your attention I was wondering if there ever was a final verdict as to the best mixture for... cooling anti-biotic safe for tubes and pumps I've read lots of threads but haven't been able to get a solid verdict.. Thanks, I will look into the Hydor, does it run hot? H

07-28-2003, 05:42 PM	#7
h4rm0nix Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 45	I'm not a fan anymore. It ran very hot. Never could get it silent, always a small tick here and there. Plus just shut down and will not restart. I'm just trying to determine what's the next best option, I've gone to A/Cooling for the time being, then once I've got a free weekend I'll put the water blocks back in and try again.. Anyone done much with these blueline HD Pumps? H

07-28-2003, 06:22 PM	#9
h4rm0nix Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 45	Hmm, I've got two procs and a Dtek rad, will the L20 give enough love? thanks.. H

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