I hate watercooling

memize · 03-06-2004, 11:52 PM

Today I spent about 8 hours setting up my watercooling. I got the lengths of tubing, then set it up. First leak test, the bay-res was leaking. Had to thread tape the screws then re-install. second leak test, little drops comming from the same spot next to the valve, had to do same thing again. third leak test everything is ok so i put everything back in the case. I take the case back into my room, turn it on, loud siren sound coming from motherboard refusing to turn PC on (CPU Block contact to CPU i'm suspecting) So i decided just to put a heatsink back on the cpu and still have water going to the video card. Start up the computer, hear this loud popying noise then really bad smell. I can't figure out what it was but i'm thinking the floppy drive. Turn the computer on again, go into windows, the video card fails after running like 25 minutes : \. so now i'm trying to figure out what to do for tommarow

jlrii · 03-07-2004, 12:09 AM

The general rule is to run the system with only the pump powered for AT LEAST 24 hrs b4 starting it ...sorry bout' your mishap.

Jason_The_Angry · 03-07-2004, 12:19 AM

i agree. i set my system up, without any computer components in the case, and ran it for about 48 hrs. everything checked out, then i rechecked all the hoseses and clamps, and started installing actual computer parts. so far...(3 months) no leaks.

kronchev · 03-07-2004, 01:03 AM

Bay-reses leak a lot, so youre dumb for buying that. Also youre dumb for not leak testing 24 hours out of the system, then around 6 when its mounted in the system. So in the end, its user error.

prandtl · 03-07-2004, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kronchev

Bay-reses leak a lot, so youre dumb for buying that. Also youre dumb for not leak testing 24 hours out of the system, then around 6 when its mounted in the system. So in the end, its user error.

^

That's really uncalled for. No need to call anyone "dumb". No matter what mistake he did, he certainly doesn't need some anonymous Joe calling him dumb in a forum.
Don't get me wrong, I do agree Memize should have leak test it more thoroughly before powering it up, but no need to be so harsh about it. Having hardware fail is already enough.

Joe · 03-07-2004, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kronchev

Bay-reses leak a lot, so youre dumb for buying that. Also youre dumb for not leak testing 24 hours out of the system, then around 6 when its mounted in the system. So in the end, its user error.

This not so anonymous Joe is going to go and call YOU Dumb for saying something like that. wtf. how does that help his situation, other than make you feel superior since you could call someone you don’t know dumb for buying a product he didn’t know to be faulty. Maybe next time everyone should run their ideas by you first, you and all your infinite info and knowledge...

get a grip man.

Arcturius · 03-07-2004, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kronchev

Bay-reses leak a lot, so youre dumb for buying that. Also youre dumb for not leak testing 24 hours out of the system, then around 6 when its mounted in the system. So in the end, its user error.

Perhaps a mite harsh, especially considering your first WC rig has been running for less than three days, and you're having problems getting the performance you want?... :shrug:

(I normally would have left this alone after Joe put you in your place, but your arrogance irks me enough to take the time to provide more supporting evidence...)

Arcturius · 03-07-2004, 02:51 AM

memize: Sorry to hear about the fried components. I can understand your excitement and corresponding rush to get your wc system up and running, but rushing anything usually leads to failure...

When I first setup my K6-2 350 for direct-die cooling, I was in such a rush (and not thinking clearly, due to my excitement) that I didn't remove the 'water block' from the processor before drilling a second outlet--I didn't want to wait another 24h for the silicone to cure.

Of course, the drillbit didn't 'drill' so much as it 'screwed' it's way through, and drove right into the core, badly wounding it. It will run at 150MHz now, though, if I feed it 3.5V.

There is good news though (always look for the silver lining

): I can pretty well guarantee the memory of this will keep you from rushing something in the future and accidentally causing similar problems. (I doubt that makes you feel any better, though.)

Also, is the video card absolutely fried? Where did water get on it? Sometimes you can get temporary shorts from minerals in the water that dry on/bond to the card, and can be cleaned up with isopropyl and a q-tip.

kronchev · 03-07-2004, 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe

This not so anonymous Joe is going to go and call YOU Dumb for saying something like that. wtf. how does that help his situation, other than make you feel superior since you could call someone you don’t know dumb for buying a product he didn’t know to be faulty. Maybe next time everyone should run their ideas by you first, you and all your infinite info and knowledge...

get a grip man.

Alright, not knowing about the bay res was harsh, I apoligize for that. However, theres no excuse for not testing it for 24 hours, since thats something that every single person has said when talking about watercooling.

feathers · 03-07-2004, 04:12 AM

Memize:

You should have applied PTFE tape to the threads right from the start! It doesn't hurt to add a little dielectric grease also. To go ahead and install the system after you had so many leaks was really asking for trouble!

Water+leak+electronic component=burning smell. That's a nasty experience and I have been there myself (a single drip dropped down from a hose I was disconnecting and into the tiny vent in my neon tube driver. One single drip or drip was all it took to burn-out the circuitry!).

:-(

memize · 03-07-2004, 10:25 AM

thanks for the symphathy guys

, first off let me say that there is no water on any of my compenents and that my video card works just fine, I had on it an Arctic VGA Cooler and it was clocked higher than usual and im thinking thats why it was failing (i'm not sure if theres good enough contact between my gpuwater blockand video card). And Yes I was very ansxious to set this up

I blame this on having only one computer and using it all the time. I've been working on this alot, so far I've had to drain it a total of 5 times. I've tried setting everything up atleast 4, but due to problems and not having a part I needed i've had to postpone it, so when i finally got everything I was in a big hurry. Oh and i would have applied teflon tape to the threads, but you see, the bay res came "supposibly seeled" so I tried to find a quick solution to get it running. At the moment i'm using the computer right now but with a cpu fan and the waterblock hanging outside the case. Everything is leak free though because I have tested this for 24 hours on all my other components EXPEPT the new bay-res i just purchased, so i didn't feal it was neccesary to test EVERYTHING again for 24 hours (which was probably wrong)

Arcturius · 03-07-2004, 12:12 PM

So what burned? Was it the floppy drive?

pHaestus · 03-07-2004, 01:02 PM

I very rarely leak test for more than 30 minutes or so. But I've put a few components in the oven at 150F (and in the trash) before too...

feathers · 03-07-2004, 01:32 PM

"So what burned? Was it the floppy drive?" - No, his neighbours house. One of those unfortunate moments when you think that burning smell is coming from your computer, but then you realise your neighbour's house is on fire. Happens to me all the time.

#Rotor · 03-07-2004, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kronchev

Alright, not knowing about the bay res was harsh, I apoligize for that. However, theres no excuse for not testing it for 24 hours, since thats something that every single person has said when talking about watercooling.

not to fuel it, but if there is one thing there's no excuse for, then it's calling strangers in need of assistance dumb.... for any reason what so ever...

24hour leak tests are at best a feel-good myth.... I mean come on, if it's not leaking after you switched the pump on and pinched the return tube for some pressure stress...(or 20 minutes, for a slow leak), what makes you think 24 hours is going to make it any less likely to start a leak.... and in that case.... why not 48hours,

I'd rather recommend running the rig fully installed with a paper towl neatly placed over the graphics or pci cards that would be in harms way....The reason for it , as you install things you yank and pull on tubes and stuff.... so a freshly installed 24your-tested setup, is as unsafe as one not tested at all.... not so...

kronchev · 03-07-2004, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by #Rotor

24hour leak tests are at best a feel-good myth.... I mean come on, if it's not leaking after you switched the pump on and pinched the return tube for some pressure stress...(or 20 minutes, for a slow leak), what makes you think 24 hours is going to make it any less likely to start a leak.... and in that case.... why not 48hours,

I'd rather recommend running the rig fully installed with a paper towl neatly placed over the graphics or pci cards that would be in harms way....The reason for it , as you install things you yank and pull on tubes and stuff.... so a freshly installed 24your-tested setup, is as unsafe as one not tested at all.... not so...

that may be true, but I was really only comfortable after 24 hours not installed. When I put it in I did only wait 6...I got too impatient to wait anymore. I have a paper towel under and around the pump since that always seems to be a popular leakpoint, in fact I did fix a leak but that was because I didnt clamp the top part of my T-line. The 24 hours test is to make sure the block, rad, and res dont have any holes, its not to test tubing really.

memize · 03-07-2004, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arcturius

So what burned? Was it the floppy drive?

Yea it has to be, I sleaved my power supply (which was a total pain that I will never go through again) I'm thinking I put the wrong wires in the wrong spots on it and that may have caused it. The floppy also responds to nothing

jlrii · 03-07-2004, 03:44 PM

Ive had a few slow leaks b4...usually @ a threaded component. With a bay res above my HD & CDROM I don't feel 24 hrs is overkill.

ItsSoLARGE · 03-11-2004, 10:47 AM

I'm guessing the beeping has to do with the fact that you probably disconnected the fan from the HSF when you put the block on. Modern mobos don't let you disconnect the cpu hsf fan without bitching a lot. So.... my suggestion is to connect a fan and then disable the protection thing in the bios and you should be fine in that respect.

03-06-2004, 11:52 PM	#1
memize Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: IN, USA Posts: 21	I hate watercooling Today I spent about 8 hours setting up my watercooling. I got the lengths of tubing, then set it up. First leak test, the bay-res was leaking. Had to thread tape the screws then re-install. second leak test, little drops comming from the same spot next to the valve, had to do same thing again. third leak test everything is ok so i put everything back in the case. I take the case back into my room, turn it on, loud siren sound coming from motherboard refusing to turn PC on (CPU Block contact to CPU i'm suspecting) So i decided just to put a heatsink back on the cpu and still have water going to the video card. Start up the computer, hear this loud popying noise then really bad smell. I can't figure out what it was but i'm thinking the floppy drive. Turn the computer on again, go into windows, the video card fails after running like 25 minutes : \. so now i'm trying to figure out what to do for tommarow

03-07-2004, 12:19 AM	#3
Jason_The_Angry Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: D.C. Posts: 55	i agree. i set my system up, without any computer components in the case, and ran it for about 48 hrs. everything checked out, then i rechecked all the hoseses and clamps, and started installing actual computer parts. so far...(3 months) no leaks. __________________ "You can get much further with a kind word and a gun than you can with a kind word alone." - Al Capone

03-07-2004, 02:51 AM	#8
Arcturius Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin Posts: 294	memize: Sorry to hear about the fried components. I can understand your excitement and corresponding rush to get your wc system up and running, but rushing anything usually leads to failure... When I first setup my K6-2 350 for direct-die cooling, I was in such a rush (and not thinking clearly, due to my excitement) that I didn't remove the 'water block' from the processor before drilling a second outlet--I didn't want to wait another 24h for the silicone to cure. Of course, the drillbit didn't 'drill' so much as it 'screwed' it's way through, and drove right into the core, badly wounding it. It will run at 150MHz now, though, if I feed it 3.5V. There is good news though (always look for the silver lining ): I can pretty well guarantee the memory of this will keep you from rushing something in the future and accidentally causing similar problems. (I doubt that makes you feel any better, though.) Also, is the video card absolutely fried? Where did water get on it? Sometimes you can get temporary shorts from minerals in the water that dry on/bond to the card, and can be cleaned up with isopropyl and a q-tip. __________________ Everything aircooled (I honestly don't know why you guys let me stay a member...) Always folding: WXP Pro: KD7R + Palomino 1800+ W2K3: 4x P3 Xeon 500 512KB (4 clients) Linux boxes: none Had to put them to use doing real work.

03-07-2004, 12:12 PM	#12
Arcturius Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin Posts: 294	So what burned? Was it the floppy drive? __________________ Everything aircooled (I honestly don't know why you guys let me stay a member...) Always folding: WXP Pro: KD7R + Palomino 1800+ W2K3: 4x P3 Xeon 500 512KB (4 clients) Linux boxes: none Had to put them to use doing real work.

03-07-2004, 01:02 PM	#13
pHaestus Big Player Making Big Money Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: irc.lostgeek.com #procooling.com Posts: 4,782	I very rarely leak test for more than 30 minutes or so. But I've put a few components in the oven at 150F (and in the trash) before too... __________________ Getting paid like a biker with the best crank... -MF DOOM

03-07-2004, 12:09 AM	#2
jlrii Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Massachusetts, USA Posts: 158	The general rule is to run the system with only the pump powered for AT LEAST 24 hrs b4 starting it ...sorry bout' your mishap.

03-07-2004, 01:03 AM	#4
kronchev Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Lawrenceville, NJ Posts: 254	Bay-reses leak a lot, so youre dumb for buying that. Also youre dumb for not leak testing 24 hours out of the system, then around 6 when its mounted in the system. So in the end, its user error.

03-07-2004, 04:12 AM	#10
feathers Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: UK Posts: 81	Memize: You should have applied PTFE tape to the threads right from the start! It doesn't hurt to add a little dielectric grease also. To go ahead and install the system after you had so many leaks was really asking for trouble! Water+leak+electronic component=burning smell. That's a nasty experience and I have been there myself (a single drip dropped down from a hose I was disconnecting and into the tiny vent in my neon tube driver. One single drip or drip was all it took to burn-out the circuitry!). :-(

03-07-2004, 10:25 AM	#11
memize Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: IN, USA Posts: 21	thanks for the symphathy guys , first off let me say that there is no water on any of my compenents and that my video card works just fine, I had on it an Arctic VGA Cooler and it was clocked higher than usual and im thinking thats why it was failing (i'm not sure if theres good enough contact between my gpuwater blockand video card). And Yes I was very ansxious to set this up I blame this on having only one computer and using it all the time. I've been working on this alot, so far I've had to drain it a total of 5 times. I've tried setting everything up atleast 4, but due to problems and not having a part I needed i've had to postpone it, so when i finally got everything I was in a big hurry. Oh and i would have applied teflon tape to the threads, but you see, the bay res came "supposibly seeled" so I tried to find a quick solution to get it running. At the moment i'm using the computer right now but with a cpu fan and the waterblock hanging outside the case. Everything is leak free though because I have tested this for 24 hours on all my other components EXPEPT the new bay-res i just purchased, so i didn't feal it was neccesary to test EVERYTHING again for 24 hours (which was probably wrong)

03-07-2004, 01:32 PM	#14
feathers Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: UK Posts: 81	"So what burned? Was it the floppy drive?" - No, his neighbours house. One of those unfortunate moments when you think that burning smell is coming from your computer, but then you realise your neighbour's house is on fire. Happens to me all the time.

03-07-2004, 03:44 PM	#18
jlrii Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Massachusetts, USA Posts: 158	Ive had a few slow leaks b4...usually @ a threaded component. With a bay res above my HD & CDROM I don't feel 24 hrs is overkill.

03-11-2004, 10:47 AM	#19
ItsSoLARGE Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: So Cal Posts: 125	I'm guessing the beeping has to do with the fact that you probably disconnected the fan from the HSF when you put the block on. Modern mobos don't let you disconnect the cpu hsf fan without bitching a lot. So.... my suggestion is to connect a fan and then disable the protection thing in the bios and you should be fine in that respect. __________________ Plumber's Goop: The Watercooler's Duct Tape

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