Moving Heatercore Barbs?

[RedPhoenix]

Thats my heatercore. I would like to cut the barbs where the teal line is and put new ones where the red circle is. How owuld I go about doing this?

[kronchev]

seems like a bad idea to me. but thats just me. I assume you just cut where they were, seal the holes, the drill where you want them, and solder em in place. but really, why not just buy a new core?

[TerraMex]

You can.
Wrong position thou.
Use setting 1 (green) or 2 (red). Either works well.
The one you had would make the side channels get low flow.
Settings 1 or 2 manages to prevent that.

Best way , drill a hole, solder a copper pipe , or a barb. Not very difficult.

[RedPhoenix]

Originally Posted by TerraMex

You can.
Wrong position thou.
Use setting 1 (green) or 2 (red). Either works well.
The one you had would make the side channels get low flow.
Settings 1 or 2 manages to prevent that.

Best way , drill a hole, solder a copper pipe , or a barb. Not very difficult.

Well thanks for the tips! Could I use JB Weld or epoxy rather than solder. I dont know EXACTLY how to solder that type stuff.. only good in wires, not tubing. If you could explain how I would and what would I use to solder them on?

[kronchev]

Originally Posted by RedPhoenix

Well thanks for the tips! Could I use JB Weld or epoxy rather than solder. I dont know EXACTLY how to solder that type stuff.. only good in wires, not tubing. If you could explain how I would and what would I use to solder them on?

well you really want solder as itll give the best watertight hold. JB Weld is only for light usage I believe...in any case its not something i'd use for my WC system. i cant give any tips, sorry, but maybe someone whose very experianced at this kind of thing can.

[iggy]

its pretty much the same thing, but with a little more prep work, make sure youve got the closest fit possible, tin both parts, fit them together then melt the solder

then add more solder over the top so youve got a nice seal, then leak test once its all cooled

[RedPhoenix]

Originally Posted by iggy

its pretty much the same thing, but with a little more prep work, make sure youve got the closest fit possible, tin both parts, fit them together then melt the solder

then add more solder over the top so youve got a nice seal, then leak test once its all cooled

i thought you used a blow torch for it

[Butcher]

Yes, that's how you get it hot enough to melt the solder.
As for JB weld... water cooling gear is quite light duty for that sort of epoxy, it'd do fine. Solder is a stronger bond though.

[RedPhoenix]

Alright sounds good. Now how would I seal off the original barb? Should I cut it down to the tank? Or cut it righy before the tank? Also I would need to scrape off the original paint, should I just use a wire brush attatched to a dremel to do that?

[jlrii]

Originally Posted by RedPhoenix

Alright sounds good. Now how would I seal off the original barb? Should I cut it down to the tank? Or cut it righy before the tank? Also I would need to scrape off the original paint, should I just use a wire brush attatched to a dremel to do that?

If by any chance you decide to solder this rad....do NOT use normal solder. From the pics it looks like an aluminum rad. If that is the case you would have to braze the connection on. "Turbo torch" used to sell a lil' kit ti braze AL that was the best out there at the time (use only distilled water to mix the flux, as noted in the directions or you WILL have problems). Heat applied is key...use a small tip and just enough to adhere the bazing rod....thin AL tends to, for lack of a better phrase "turn to paper and go away in a hurry"

All considered epoxy is the best bet for one who has no practice brazing. If the rad truly is AL make sure you use a good corosion inhibitor as yuckeyness can insue quickly in a mixed metal system.
good luck,
JR

[SlaterSpeed]

Attualy looks like a copper/brass core thats been painted silver


Theres 2 ways to block the original tubes. either cut them right off and solder a plate over the hole or leave a little of the tube, make a bung out of brass and solder that in the hole

[Butcher]

thin AL tends to, for lack of a better phrase "turn to paper and go away in a hurry"

Yeah it melts at quite a low temp compared to copper and brass.

[starbuck3733t]

You could cut off the old barbs, leaving about a inch, and then squeeze the ends of them flat and solder them shut.

[RedPhoenix]

Alright for the easiest way, I heated up the original barbs are pulled them right out. Now how would I seal up the hole, the best way??

Also, would it be benificial to put 2 barbs in the top of the HC and then have it exit through 1 at the bottom? Just Y split it into the HC?

[RedPhoenix]

Originally Posted by RedPhoenix

Alright for the easiest way, I heated up the original barbs are pulled them right out. Now how would I seal up the hole, the best way??

Also, would it be benificial to put 2 barbs in the top of the HC and then have it exit through 1 at the bottom? Just Y split it into the HC?

Here is a pic of it.


I stripped the paint too as you can see.

How would I see that up? Rumaging around in my room, I found fins from an aero7 heatsink. Could I solder those on the holes?

Side note, my Fedco2199 did not want the barbs to come out. Oh well, excuse for a new single pass hc

[|kbn|]

Couldnt you just resolder the top back on or is that heatercore unfixable now?

[RedPhoenix]

Originally Posted by |kbn|

Couldnt you just resolder the top back on or is that heatercore unfixable now?

Too much work for it.