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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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#1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 21
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hi, i am making my own waterblock and having trouble keeping its shine. it seems like it turn brownish after a few days. i am assuming i dont want that layer to be there?
also, i am planning to do peltier cooling. how thick should the copper cold plate be? |
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#2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: california
Posts: 429
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Watch out for skin oils left on the copper from the hands or fingers. Use some gloves or plastic when holding the WB. Brasso and any metal polish is good and use alcohol/acetone or TIM cleaner to clean off the leftover polish.
Cold Plate thickness at 3/8" is best compromise between performance and cost. Still 1/8" or 1/4" is good enough. http://overclockers.com/articles305/ |
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#3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 21
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hmm... actually i read that article too.. but thick plate gives better performance is just not making sense to me
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#4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Alberta
Posts: 631
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The brown layer of oxide has an almost-negligible and certainly unquantifiable (for water coolers, anyhow) effect upon performance. Do not worry about that - it'll form quickly no matter what you do.
Well, pretend you have no cold plate. This is a tradeoff, because you lose the thermal interface material (TIM) joint between the processor and the TEC (two TIM's, in fact) BUT the heat from the processor will be applied to the TEC in a 14mm*7mm (how big are processors these days?) rectangle, only engaging a fraction of the thermocouples in the TEC. If we apply a very thin (basically, of zero height) coldplate, you will have two TIM joints, but the heat will still be applied to the TEC in a 7*14mm rectangle, engaging the same fraction of the thermocouples, since the heat has no chance to spread at all in a cold plate of zero height, and thus it will be worse than no cold plate at all. Since heat spreads in a conic fashion, with the CPU as the tip, as the cold plate gets thicker, the rectangle of thermocouples engaged will grow and more and more will be engaged, which intuitively implies that cooling efficiency will increase. Copper has practically no thermal resistance internally, so that won't impede cooling, and time has no effect, since we are running steady state systems. There is no "best" thickness for a cold plate, you'd have to make the decision yourself. I'm guessing that the above will do nothing but confuse you, but I'm trying. http://www.overclockers.com/articles305/ has information on the matter - lower thermal resistance is better. The thickness of cold plates has diminishing returns. |
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#5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 21
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wow.. geez, thanks.. that really make sense to me now. so i guess i will be using 3/8" cold plate then. But is it safe to hang that much weight on the motherboard? Anyways, my block is 25% completed. its nothing extraordinary, but i will post picture after i am done :-D
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#6 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LA, CA
Posts: 53
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You can use brasso anywhere except where the block makes contact with a heat source. It should protect the metal.
__________________
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Loop 1: D5 Pump • Bonneville w/ AC Heater Core • Swiftech MCW6002 • Gemini Tsunami VGA block • Gemini Tsunami S478 block (cold side chiller block) 110W 16v TEC @ 60W 12v Loop 2: PC Watercooling Shop 12v Water Pump • PCWCS 80.2 Rad • Gemini Tsunami (hot side chiller block) |
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